How to install door speakers?

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mc01ta
Posts: 50
Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:30 am

How to install door speakers?

Postby mc01ta » Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:51 am

I'm trying to install door speakers soon and want some feedback on how you went about disassembling the front door panels and where you ran speaker wire through. I'm upgrading to component speakers run off an external amp and figured I'd start here by asking this first.

How did you run aftermarket speaker wire to door panels and also to stock tweeter locations in the dash? I lost on the dash part so may just mount tweeters in door panels if all else fails. What did you use and what steps are involved in removing the door panels?

Any info is appreciated!


Memphis
Posts: 24
Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 12:59 am
Location: Monument, CO

Postby Memphis » Sun Jan 30, 2011 12:03 am

your better off mounting the tweeters on the door panel itself.. Its best to have the tweeter within 12" of the mid speaker if your running compents. I have mine mounted about 6" above the mid..

As far as running your speaker wire, you just need to take out the door sill panel and also the kick plate panel under the dash,, There you wil have access to a small hole that you can see the factory wiring harness where the wiring for the windows and power locks are coming through,, its really tricky and takes some time, and alot of pain in your fingers but its best if you get the wire to go into the factory gromet or (rubber sleeve if you wanna call it that,) along with the other wires,,

I did this by popping off the sleeve from both ends, (the door and the kick panel) and then I shoved in as far as I could a pair of needle nose pliars til it almost came out through the other end.. From there I fed the wire through til I was able to grip it with the pliars and I was finally able to pull it through the rubber sleeve..It took me a few attempts and some cusing and yelling,, but I was finally able to grab a hold of it and pull it through.. Once you get the wires through you can feed it into the door and connect it to the speaker..

It sounds like alot of work, and trust me,, it is.. but its the best way to do it and gives you the clean install look rather than just routing the wires on the outside of the rubber sleeve and having the being exposed at all times.

and as far so taking off the doorpanels... its pretty simple,, Im not sure what year yours is, but usually theres a few screws hidden behind the handle or under it.. and you just need to take a flat head screw driver and get on the bottom of the panel and slide it in, the slowly pop off the panel thats being held on by plastic tabs. Just make sure you dont tug to hard or you'll break the tabs. Then from there you disconnect the wiring harness to your window buttoms and you can easily take off the panel and have full access to the inside of the door. Hope that helps out a lil, If you have any questions feel free to ask..

mc01ta
Posts: 50
Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:30 am

Postby mc01ta » Mon Feb 07, 2011 3:08 pm

meant to put that it is a 2007. Stupid question but needs to be asked, do I need to buy speaker wiring harnesses? I'm buying components to run off an amp

Memphis
Posts: 24
Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 12:59 am
Location: Monument, CO

Postby Memphis » Tue Feb 08, 2011 6:17 pm

no you dont need a harness.. Your speakers should have come with wiring already, but if it didnt, then you can pick some up from any auto parts store or stereo shop..

Heres the kicker to what your doing though... Our vehicle comes with standard with 6x9's in the front doors and 6"3/4 in the rear doors.. Now if you wanting to say a 6.5" Compents in the front, your gonna have to either buy some adapter rings or make them yourself.. Some stereo shops will make them for you, but charge you anywhere from $30 to $60 for a set.. You can easily make them yourself out of some 1/4" MDF or even fiberboard.. The MDF will be a stiffer board and give you a better baffle for your speakers to be mounted on, but the other stuff will do find also.

you can also find them on ebay to, heres a link http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid ... Categories

as for the wiring, your gonna leave the factory harness just setting there, and your gonna hookup your new speaker wire directly to the speaker, then run in through the door like I said in the previous post and then run it under the carpet back to your amp. Hope that helps

mc01ta
Posts: 50
Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:30 am

Postby mc01ta » Tue Feb 08, 2011 10:20 pm

Thank you for the help. Sorry, but i'm confused. I will have an external two channel amp running the components. I am aware of the speakers needing an adapter so I got that covered.

What is confusing me is what i'm wiring and what I need. I will have the speaker wire running from amp to crossovers. Then crossovers to speaker? Where is the factory speaker wiring harness coming into play with wiring and do I need an aftermarket harness? From what you replied I don't need to purchase one so how am I supposed to hook this up?

Its been over 12 years since my last install with a friend and it is all a blur. I apologize in advance for not catching on to this but i'm at a loss.

mc01ta
Posts: 50
Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:30 am

Postby mc01ta » Tue Feb 08, 2011 10:23 pm

sorry for another reply, but meant to state that I don't want to cut into or splice into the factory wiring to hook this up. I may sell the vehicle in the future and remove the aftermarket stereo and replace with the stock gear. Do I need an speaker harness if I want to go this route?

Memphis
Posts: 24
Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 12:59 am
Location: Monument, CO

Postby Memphis » Tue Feb 08, 2011 10:55 pm

you will completely bypass your factory wiring...

What your gonna do is this... You have your Head uint.. From there you have RCAs going to your amplifier, that gives your the signal for your audio. From your Amp you will have a (+) speaker wire and a (-) speaker wire. One for the the LEFT and one for the RIGHT..

so (+)(-) LEFT SPEAKER WIRE and (+)(-) RIGHT SPEAKER WIRE.

on your amp it will probably be labeled as chanel 1 and chanel 2.

you run those wires to each door, you take apart the kick panel and door sill like I explained earlier and take off the door panel. From there inside your door you will have your compent set.. You will have the 6.5" speaker, the tweeter, and the crossover.. your ONE speaker wire you will have go into the "rubber sleeve" and into the door panel itself,, You then connect it to the the crossover. (I have my crossover just sitting inside the bottom of my door.) Theres a (+)(-) INPUT TERMNIAL. Connect the wires to the input termnials.

From there, your crossover will have two sets of wires coming out of it.
(+)(-) OUTPUT FOR THE WOOFER..
(+)(-) OUTPUT FOR THE TWEETER..

Connect the wires from the termnials on the crossover to the corresponding speaker. Then you mount the speakers in their locatsion, put the door panel back on, put on the door sill and kick panel,, and WAAAALLAAA,,, your done.

Not really sure how that is to confusing,, but feel free to ask any questions.. dont feel like your asking any dumb questions, cuz its best to get help then to try and do it yourself and mess something up..

Bottom line though, from what I think your asking about the factory wiring,,, Just leave it sitting there,, You are no longer using your factory wiring at all... All your audio signal is coming from your amplifer and not the Headunit. And dont worry about the factory wiring harness being loose in your door panel, It wont harm anything..

mc01ta
Posts: 50
Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:30 am

Postby mc01ta » Wed Feb 09, 2011 6:46 am

that's what I was looking for. Thank you for clarifying and really appreciate you taking the time to help me.

Any idea on how much length I need for power wire from battery to rear hatch area where subs will be? Also length of RCA cables to same area from head unit to rear for amps? I'm finishing up ordering today.

Memphis
Posts: 24
Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 12:59 am
Location: Monument, CO

Postby Memphis » Wed Feb 09, 2011 7:43 pm

For your power wire.. Safe to say about 22ft.. That will give you any extra slack in case you mess up. Always start at your battery and work your way back.. For the RCA's.. I got 16' ft long RCAs and have the extra slack tucked under my 3rd row seat. Its better to have a lil extra length then to come up a foot short..


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