No start- then start

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i-man
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Location: Griffin, GA

No start- then start

Postby i-man » Sun Dec 16, 2012 8:50 am

Left to go get breakfast less than a mile away. Started fine. Went in, got the food, came back out to leave, nothing. Put the key in and turn it and I got nothing. I usually wait 3 or 4 seconds for the pump to prime, but I didn't this time. Turned key off and got a clicking sound for a few seconds, including gauge needles bouncing. Repeated this process a couple more times. After third of fourth attempt, I let it sit for a minute, inside lights came on. Turned the key on, all gauges work, dash lights work and it fired right up. Got home and checked connection on battery. Both are tight with only a small amount of corrosion on the + side. Tried it several more times and everything is fine. Voltage is good with key on and with vehicle running. Any ideas what may have caused this? I travel a lot and don't want to get stranded.

It's a 2008.


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eieio
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Re: No start- then start

Postby eieio » Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:35 am

i-man wrote:Left to go get breakfast less than a mile away. Started fine. Went in, got the food, came back out to leave, nothing. Put the key in and turn it and I got nothing. I usually wait 3 or 4 seconds for the pump to prime, but I didn't this time. Turned key off and got a clicking sound for a few seconds, including gauge needles bouncing. Repeated this process a couple more times. After third of fourth attempt, I let it sit for a minute, inside lights came on. Turned the key on, all gauges work, dash lights work and it fired right up. Got home and checked connection on battery. Both are tight with only a small amount of corrosion on the + side. Tried it several more times and everything is fine. Voltage is good with key on and with vehicle running. Any ideas what may have caused this? I travel a lot and don't want to get stranded.

It's a 2008.
clicking & needle bouncing are classic symptoms of weak battery and/or poor cable connections
what was the measured voltage w/key off?
how old is the battery?
is it the OEM battery?
3-4 years is about all you can expect from them

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i-man
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Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:43 am
Location: Griffin, GA

Postby i-man » Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:48 am

When I first put the key in and tried it the voltage was all the way at the bottom. When I tried again a second later it didn't move, after the third or fourth try when everything came back on it jumped up to probably around 11 V.

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i-man
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Location: Griffin, GA

Postby i-man » Sun Dec 16, 2012 6:06 pm

Little update, now that I am at a keyboard versus my phone.

The glitch only happened once. That was this morning. When it happened, nothing worked. No inside lights, no dash lights, nothing. After I turned the key off, that is when the gauge needles jumped. After the 3rd or 4th try, I turned the key off and let it sit. After about 20 or so seconds, the gauge needles stop and so did the other little clicking sound. After a few more seconds, the interior lights came on. I turned the key on and everything on the dash lit up like normal. I tried it, and it started right back up. I drove home, turned it off and on 3 or 4 times and everything was normal. We had a bit of running around today and it never missed a beat.

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volvite
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Postby volvite » Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:10 pm

Bad connection at the battery. Check your connection. Possibly loose or some corrosion.


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