Wasn't sure where to post this

Any topics related to 2005-2012 R51

Moderator: volvite

FLpathFinder
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:35 am

Postby FLpathFinder » Tue Jun 18, 2013 11:02 am

deermjd wrote:For whatever reason your engine coolant system is overheating and it appears the ECU is trying to correct the problem by shutting off the AC compressor or using the heater core as a radiator to cool the engine. Of course this is purely my speculation.

So this problem only happens at idle?

Sorry to beat a dead horse, but actually under further observation it is only occurring while idling or sitting parked. Does that change anything?


User avatar
deermjd
Posts: 459
Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 7:24 pm
Location: Birmingham, Alabama

Postby deermjd » Wed Jun 19, 2013 5:04 am

I would have suggested to check the radiator fan to see if it was running but you have already checked that.

FLpathFinder
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:35 am

Postby FLpathFinder » Wed Jun 19, 2013 11:18 am

Quick question, is coolant supposed to go from a light green to a dark blue?

User avatar
disallow
Site Admin
Posts: 2820
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Postby disallow » Wed Jun 19, 2013 11:37 am

No.

But some coolant is dark blue to begin with. I use Honda Premix in mine, and it is a nice dark blue color. Normal coolant is a greenish yellow.

I use the honda stuff as it is silicate and borate free, and I've read that many Nissan enthusiasts use it with good success.

t

FLpathFinder
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:35 am

Postby FLpathFinder » Sat Jun 29, 2013 6:47 am

Brought it in. Blown head gasket at 60k. Unreal

User avatar
disallow
Site Admin
Posts: 2820
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Postby disallow » Sat Jun 29, 2013 7:49 am

Shit that sucks! Where you getting it fixed? Quotes?

FLpathFinder
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:35 am

Postby FLpathFinder » Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:09 am

An update on this since I've been MIA recently. Kinda a bizarre situation, it even took 3 trips to nissan to figure it out. Apparently the coolant leak I was experiencing was due to a leak in the rear heater. Quite an expensive fix and I'm even doing it the "cheap way". Luckily it was not a blown head gasket. I also have a clogged radiator, which Nissan wants 800$ for a new rad. Not happening nissan lol

User avatar
doctahjones
Posts: 844
Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2010 11:08 am
Location: aurora, co

Postby doctahjones » Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:02 pm

FLpathFinder wrote:An update on this since I've been MIA recently. Kinda a bizarre situation, it even took 3 trips to nissan to figure it out. Apparently the coolant leak I was experiencing was due to a leak in the rear heater. Quite an expensive fix and I'm even doing it the "cheap way". Luckily it was not a blown head gasket. I also have a clogged radiator, which Nissan wants 800$ for a new rad. Not happening nissan lol
you just going to replace the rad yourself? at least that for sure gets you out of the radiator problem....

just about to hit 80k on mine. time to the radiator....

User avatar
smj999smj
Site Admin
Posts: 6054
Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:13 pm
Location: Prospect, VA

Postby smj999smj » Sun Aug 11, 2013 9:30 pm

My $92 "made in China" radiator is still doing fine...no complaints. Last I checked it was $72 shipped from Parts Express on Ebay. Some prefer the Canadian-made Spectra Premium which runs about $160 online. Keep in mind that the aftermarket radiators don't come with the foam, but those are inexpensive from Nissan.

User avatar
ShipFixer
Posts: 769
Joined: Sun May 24, 2009 9:52 am
Location: San Diego, CA

Postby ShipFixer » Sun Aug 11, 2013 9:57 pm

FLpathFinder wrote:An update on this since I've been MIA recently. Kinda a bizarre situation, it even took 3 trips to nissan to figure it out. Apparently the coolant leak I was experiencing was due to a leak in the rear heater. Quite an expensive fix and I'm even doing it the "cheap way". Luckily it was not a blown head gasket. I also have a clogged radiator, which Nissan wants 800$ for a new rad. Not happening nissan lol
It took Nissan a week or so to figure out my clogged radiator. The a/c would turn on and off after 20 minutes or so of driving, so of course they started with looking for every leak they could find. A very subtle overheating.

FLpathFinder
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:35 am

Postby FLpathFinder » Wed Aug 14, 2013 7:02 am

I think I'm just going to pick up an aftermarket radiator, any suggestions? How easy is it to do yourself?

User avatar
smj999smj
Site Admin
Posts: 6054
Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:13 pm
Location: Prospect, VA

Postby smj999smj » Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:37 pm

The job, itself, is one of the more difficult Nissan radiators to replace; labor guide calls for 3 hours. This is largely because of the A/C condenser, which shares the same mounting bracket as the radiator, and the lines going to the AC condenser. The radiator has bolt on side brackets that extend out at the mounts and these need to be fished through the condenser lines in order to pull the assembly through. Since the condenser shares the same mount bracket, it will need to be lifted out of the bracket and wired or tied up to support it during the procedure. Of course, the shroud and electric fan need to be removed and that's a tight squeeze. Then the clutch fan blade can be removed. As far as parts, it's a matter of made in Canada or made in China for most. Spectra Premium in made in Canada and is a quality unit for around $160 online. As I mentioned in my post, Parts Express on Ebay sells a lifetime warranty radiator for $72 shipped (last time I checked) and I was impressed with the one I got. If you want new seals on the tanks, you'll need to get them through Nissan.

DanJetta
Posts: 478
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 6:47 am

Postby DanJetta » Sun Aug 18, 2013 8:39 am

If you're handy, it's definitely doable. I did my V8 radiator and accessory belt with a $30 Walmart toolkit in about 3 hours. That included some extra steps which weren't necessary as well as replacing a tensioner and a good half hour wrangling the accessory belt (which was not a part of the radiator replacement). If you have a V6, you'll have more room to maneuver.

It's very straightforward. As said above by SMJ, the hardest part is maneuvering the old radiator out through the AC lines. If you protect the fins of the condenser and the new radiator with cardboard, you'll be able to coax it without having to be so careful. You'll also be able to do it without having to remove the fan blades.

Check out my photos here: http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=8978

User avatar
smj999smj
Site Admin
Posts: 6054
Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:13 pm
Location: Prospect, VA

Postby smj999smj » Mon Aug 19, 2013 1:05 am

IIRC, when I reinstalled the radiator, I left the driver's side radiator bracket off until I got the radiator (w/ right side bracket attached) past the lines and then I installed the driver's side bracket.

FLpathFinder
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:35 am

Postby FLpathFinder » Mon Aug 19, 2013 10:18 am

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback!


Return to “R51 General Chat”