Bedlining the roof gutters mod.

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not on the rug
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Postby not on the rug » Thu Jul 11, 2013 8:53 am

a while back, I stumbled across an f150 forum, where guys were spraying on bedliner and then painting and/or clearcoating over it. I wasn't so sure of it, so that's why I asked on here.

i'm planning on dong a bunch of bedliner stuff to my pathy, and was just wondering how to keep it looking it's best and make it as durable as possible.


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NVSteve
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Postby NVSteve » Thu Jul 11, 2013 9:13 am

not on the rug wrote:a while back, I stumbled across an f150 forum, where guys were spraying on bedliner and then painting and/or clearcoating over it. I wasn't so sure of it, so that's why I asked on here.

i'm planning on dong a bunch of bedliner stuff to my pathy, and was just wondering how to keep it looking it's best and make it as durable as possible.
I've even seen where guys have mixed paint directly with bedliner before applying it. The problem with bedliner is that it will always need help. Even with all the claims of UV resistance, I have yet to run across any bedliner that hasn't faded or become dull. The beauty of a few of the bedliner products is that you can just reapply another coat when needed. My rock rails have a number of spots where the bedliner has worn off and more spots where rust is coming through. I just ordered up a dozen or so wire brushes for my dremel, so I'll be cleaning up the rails and reapplying bedliner soon.

not on the rug
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Postby not on the rug » Thu Jul 11, 2013 9:26 am

NVSteve wrote:
I've even seen where guys have mixed paint directly with bedliner before applying it. The problem with bedliner is that it will always need help. Even with all the claims of UV resistance, I have yet to run across any bedliner that hasn't faded or become dull. The beauty of a few of the bedliner products is that you can just reapply another coat when needed. My rock rails have a number of spots where the bedliner has worn off and more spots where rust is coming through. I just ordered up a dozen or so wire brushes for my dremel, so I'll be cleaning up the rails and reapplying bedliner soon.
pm sent

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oreogaborio
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Postby oreogaborio » Fri Apr 11, 2014 10:34 am

Hm. Glad I stumbled upon this. Noticed my gutters were cracking badly a few weeks ago.

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Captain
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Postby Captain » Thu Jul 10, 2014 2:23 pm

I line x mine last year, best thing I've done.

NoCode
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Postby NoCode » Mon May 18, 2015 6:32 am

Now that some of the rain channels you guys have done have some age on them, how are they holding up? I've got to do mine soon.

I talked to Line-X about doing them and they wanted $200 but they said the material will fill the channel and end up being about 1/8" higher than the roof line. I think I'll tackle it myself.

Couple questions:
1. Is there a trick to getting the tape line perfectly straight on such a long run (front to back)?
2. Do you sand the seam sealer material or just the metal on the sides of the channels?
3. How many coats of the bedliner spray do you recommend?
4. Is it difficult to pull the tape after the bedliner dries? Concerned about pulling the bedliner off as the tape comes up.

Thanks guys.

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NVSteve
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Postby NVSteve » Tue Jun 02, 2015 10:02 am

NoCode wrote: Couple questions:
1. Is there a trick to getting the tape line perfectly straight on such a long run (front to back)?
2. Do you sand the seam sealer material or just the metal on the sides of the channels?
3. How many coats of the bedliner spray do you recommend?
4. Is it difficult to pull the tape after the bedliner dries? Concerned about pulling the bedliner off as the tape comes up.

Thanks guys.
1. Just eyeball it. Start at one end, unroll a smallish length of tape you'd be comfortable with, press it down & continue. I didn't have any problems with that part & I can't even draw a straight line.
2. Whatever you will be applying the bedliner to has to be sanded and/or roughed up to give it something to stick to.
3. If you use a rattle can, I'd say at least 4. More if you can. But, that will also lead to problems with your question #4. If you use the thick, gloppy stuff that needs to be brushed on, I'd imagine it would only need a couple of coats.
4. It was a pain in the ass for me. I had to wait a certain amount of time between each coat, which means the underlying layer had a chance to dry (thus sticking to the tape). Mine is still holding up great, but if I ever have to do this again, I will be using the thick stuff by brushing it on-shouldn't be any tape problems with that.

NoCode
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Postby NoCode » Fri Jun 05, 2015 12:52 pm

NVSteve, thanks for the feedback.

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08PathPounder
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Postby 08PathPounder » Mon Jun 22, 2015 8:20 pm

In the past I had an xj Cherokee that I bed lined inside & out with roll on/brush on bed liner called Por-15. Expensive as hell! BUT it cured a glossy, textured coat and stayed that way no matter how many times I sunk it in pine barrens mud, clay or dirty water. This was back in 2008, and to this day it looks he same (brother in law owns it now) . Also on a side note, I took the head liner down inside and did the roof inside the jeep and it made it to the point where I could smash it with a hammer and it wouldn't dent. It went from flimsy sheet metal to what I can only compare as a sheet of steel. Think I might pink up a quart and have at it on the pathy.

NoCode
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Postby NoCode » Mon Aug 03, 2015 11:18 am

NVSteve wrote:
NoCode wrote: Couple questions:
1. Is there a trick to getting the tape line perfectly straight on such a long run (front to back)?
2. Do you sand the seam sealer material or just the metal on the sides of the channels?
3. How many coats of the bedliner spray do you recommend?
4. Is it difficult to pull the tape after the bedliner dries? Concerned about pulling the bedliner off as the tape comes up.

Thanks guys.
1. Just eyeball it. Start at one end, unroll a smallish length of tape you'd be comfortable with, press it down & continue. I didn't have any problems with that part & I can't even draw a straight line.
2. Whatever you will be applying the bedliner to has to be sanded and/or roughed up to give it something to stick to.
3. If you use a rattle can, I'd say at least 4. More if you can. But, that will also lead to problems with your question #4. If you use the thick, gloppy stuff that needs to be brushed on, I'd imagine it would only need a couple of coats.
4. It was a pain in the ass for me. I had to wait a certain amount of time between each coat, which means the underlying layer had a chance to dry (thus sticking to the tape). Mine is still holding up great, but if I ever have to do this again, I will be using the thick stuff by brushing it on-shouldn't be any tape problems with that.
Steve,
Did my gutters this weekend (well one side, other side next wknd) and in regards to question 4 above, the brushed on is just as bad in terms of pulling the tape off. I brushed on 2 coats and it still pulled off the edges of the new bedliner. Its only along the edge of the upper channel wall so no one will ever see it. Otherwise I'm pleased. Not a bad DIY. Thanks for the guidance.

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NVSteve
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Postby NVSteve » Tue Aug 04, 2015 10:37 am

NoCode wrote:
Steve,
Did my gutters this weekend (well one side, other side next wknd) and in regards to question 4 above, the brushed on is just as bad in terms of pulling the tape off. I brushed on 2 coats and it still pulled off the edges of the new bedliner. Its only along the edge of the upper channel wall so no one will ever see it. Otherwise I'm pleased. Not a bad DIY. Thanks for the guidance.
Glad it worked. I'm surprised about the bedliner sticking, but just be glad you didn't use a rattle can and experience the glued on fun I had. Still a lot better than looking at lots of flaked paint in the channels.

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SETI20
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Postby SETI20 » Thu Aug 06, 2015 9:12 am

About the problems with the tape: Use a couple of layers of tape, on top of each other. That gives you a harder line. Also go easy on the overspray, and try to feather the first coats on the tape so it stays thin.
Only do the last coat pretty hard on your tape line, and pull the tape off while the paint is wet. That is VERY important to get a clean line.

Keep the dying times in between as short as you can. Make sure it's not cured yet, and still tacky when you do the next layer. That way, the solvent in the top layer will keep the layer below soft and that will give your clean line when you pull up the tape.

I am doing mine soon and I'll post results.

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RDCE
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Postby RDCE » Mon Mar 07, 2016 2:36 pm

My "new to me" 07 LE in Cloud White is doing this too. I ordered some Duplicolor spray touch up paint but figure in the long run it will end up cracking again because of the joint movement with temp changes. I know everyone has been talking about bedliner but I didn't see any mention of Plasti Dip. Anyone tried this? Might look a little nicer and can flex with the expansion and contraction. Would also look nicer using white Plasti on a white paint job. Would probably need to be redone every couple years I suppose. Thoughts?

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NVSteve
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Postby NVSteve » Tue Mar 15, 2016 10:04 am

RDCE wrote:My "new to me" 07 LE in Cloud White is doing this too. I ordered some Duplicolor spray touch up paint but figure in the long run it will end up cracking again because of the joint movement with temp changes. I know everyone has been talking about bedliner but I didn't see any mention of Plasti Dip. Anyone tried this? Might look a little nicer and can flex with the expansion and contraction. Would also look nicer using white Plasti on a white paint job. Would probably need to be redone every couple years I suppose. Thoughts?
I replaced a couple of exterior utility closet type doors 2 years ago or so. I ended up spraying a ton of plasti-dip on them because they are exposed to water pouring off the roof, along with ice and snow build up. They still look absolutely brand new. I think plasti dip would work great, but you'd probably have to apply many, many coats to make it worthwhile. That stuff goes on in super thin layers. Not sure how long it would adhere to the channels over bedliner though.

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nateoverland
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Postby nateoverland » Mon May 01, 2017 8:16 am

Glad this thread exists, just had a look at my gutters and they're rusty all the way down :cry:

Problem with being in the UK, where it rains constantly. as its on the roof i'll probably be taking the hammerite / rustoleum and paintbrush approach.


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