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P1757
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eieio



Joined: 17 Jul 2009
Posts: 1716
Location: Prescott, Az.

PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

highlinetransmission wrote:
We have found that nearly always P1757 and P1759 (and limp mode as a result) are signs that there is an electrical issue in the valve body. We always inspect EXternal wiring, but it seems that it invariably is INternal to the valve body. Even small amounts of moisture seem to make these valve bodies act up. Thankfully the transmission going into 'limp' mode generally prevents folks from destroying their transmission internals.

As part of replacing the valve body we flush the transmission and address Nissan's Radiator/Transmission Cooler boondoggle by a) bypassing the radiator-based cooler and use just the factory auxiliary cooler or b) (For folks who tow or haul) Bypass the radiator-based cooler and add an after-market trans cooler in addition to the factory auxiliary cooler.

Kurt

thanks for the info Kurt, and welcome to The Nissan Path from Prescott!!! Smile
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highlinetransmission



Joined: 21 Jan 2015
Posts: 3
Location: Mesa, Az.

PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
thanks for the info Kurt, and welcome to The Nissan Path from Prescott!!! Smile


Thanks for the welcome.

One of our customers whose 05 Pathfinder we just repaired with this issue asked me to post here - as he had a dreadful prognosis from the stealership and local 'chain' transmission shop before bringing it to us.
If, through these forums, we can, together keep just ONE unsuspecting owner from being 'taken' it will be a worthwhile effort.

Kurt
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Backyardtech



Joined: 11 Oct 2015
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 5:40 pm    Post subject: DTC P1757 Reply with quote

HI EVERYONE I HAVE AN 06 PATHFINDER SE WITH 122,000 MILES. I RECENTLY HAD A CODE DTC P1757 SET IN MY VEHICLE. WHEN THE CODE SETS THE TRANS FEEL LIKE IT IS IN LIMP MODE. NOTICED WHEN I CLEARED THE CODES THE TRANS WOULD START TO DRIVE NORMAL AND WHEN THE CODE SETS IT GOES BACK INTO LIMP MODE. I HAVE READ MANY FORUMS ABOUT THIS ISSUE AND COOLANT LEAKING INTO TRANSMISSION. SO I DID MY RESEARCH ON PRICES ON A REBUILD AND A LOCAL TRANS SHOP WANTS ALMOST $3500 TO REBUILD THE TRANS AND REPLACE THE RADIATOR. SO I DECIDED TO TACKLE THE CODE MYSELF. SO I NOTICED WHEN I CLEARED THE DTC AND START DRIVING THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTED PERFECTLY BUT WHEN THE CODE CAME ON THE TRANS WENT INTO LIMP MODE. SO THAT GAVE ME A 50/50 CHANCE THAT THE TRANSMISSION CLUTCHES AND ECT IS WORKING PROPERLY. BUT THAT THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG ELECTRONICALLY. I LOOKED AT THE TRANSMISSION AND FLUID AND NOTICED THAT THE FLUID WAS BLACK AND NOT FOAMY. SO THAT WAS A SIGN THAT THERE WAS NO COOLANT CONTAMINATION. SO I WENT AHEAD AND DRAIN THE TRANS FLUID. I REMOVED THE VALVE BODY AND TCM. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS DROP 12 BOLTS AND DISCONNECT THE TWISTED WIRE HARNESS FOR THE SPEED SENSOR. ALSO DONT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE TRANS EXTERNAL CONNECTOR AND REMOVED THE METAL CLIP HOLDING THE PLUG FROM FALLING INTO THE TRANS PAN. SO WITH THE VALVE BODY AND TCM OUT I CHECK ALL ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS FROM TCM TO SOLENOIDS. FOUND ALL TO BE OK. SO I WENT TO THE DEALER AND ORDERED A NEW TCM AND VALVE BODY. FYI WHEN YOU RECEIVE THE NEW TCM AND VALVE BODY IT COMES WITH ALL NEW HARNESS AND TRANS FILTER. SO ALL YOU HAVE TO ORDER IS THE VALVE BODY AND TCM ASSEMBLY. RECOMMEND GETTING 10 QUARTS OF TRANS FLUID AND PAN GASKET FROM DEALER. ALSO WHILE I WAS WAITING FOR THE PARTS TO COME IN I CHANGED THE RADIATOR BECAUSE IT LOOKED ORGINAL AND DIDNT WANT TO TAKE A CHANCE THAT IT WOULD LEAK LATER ON DOWN THE ROAD. SO I RECEIVED THE NEW PARTS AND INSTALLED THE NEW VALVE BODY AND TCM, CONNECTED ALL CONNECTORS, TORQUED THE 12 BOLTS TO 80INCHLBS, INSTALLED TRANS PAN WITH NEW GASKET. FILLED TRANS FLUID TO SPEC. NOW THAT ALL OF THAT IS DONE TCM MUST BE PROGRAMMED BY THE DEALER. FYI THERE WAS A TIME WHEN YOU CAN JUST PLUG IN THE NEW TCM AND JUST DRIVE THE VEHICLE. BUT AS APRIL 29, 2015 THE TCM COME BLANK AND HAS TO BE PROGRAMMED. I WOULD RECOMMEND GETTING THE VEHICLE TOWED TO THE DEALER TO HAVE TCM PROGRAMMED. BECUASE THE TRANS WILL NOT HAVE OVER DRIVE AFTER TCM IS REPLACED. SO I GOT THE TCM PROGRAMMED BY THE DEALER AND GOT MY CAR BACK. TOOKED IT FOR A DRIVE AND WAS VERY PLEASED TO KNOW THE TRANS IS WORKING PROPERLY. SO AFTER ALL SAID AND DONE I SPENT ABOUT $1300. WHICH IS WAY BETTER THAN SPENDING $3500. SO IF YOUR A DO IT YOURSELFER AND YOU HAVE THE SAME CONDITIONS I DID AND WANT TO TAKE CHANCE WITH JUST CHANGING THE TCM AND VALVE BODY TO SAVE SOME MONEY. [/code]
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joanne



Joined: 12 Jan 2017
Posts: 3
Location: qld

PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 2:19 pm    Post subject: 2006 Pathfinder Valve body issue??? Reply with quote

Help! need some advice. Pathfinder wont go into 5th!!!!

The transmission started to slip, was told it could be solenoids so we dropped pan ( all clean), changed solenoids, filter and fluid.. Drives beautifully 1st up to 4th but wont shift into 5th..

Been reading a lot of info online and wondered if this could be a valve body issue? (valve blocked?)

Look forward to hearing from you

Many thanks JO
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XVTer



Joined: 09 Jul 2013
Posts: 114
Location: VT

PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2017 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JO

My 2006 started doing something similar - shifts perfect through 1-4 and then seems to just hit neutral instead of 5th. I have just been driving it the past few days by pressing the OD off button - keeps it from trying to shift to 5th and has been driving fine. The P1757 code pointed me to either the solenoid or valvebody.

I ordered a new solenoid (front brake) from makco - figuring for $70 it's worth a shot. Have a sinking feeling I'll end up having to replace the valvebody like others have had to do.

We shall see....
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joanne



Joined: 12 Jan 2017
Posts: 3
Location: qld

PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2017 7:35 pm    Post subject: Valve body Reply with quote

It's such a pain isn't it!!! Let me know how you go. We are in Australia and seems finding a valve body with Tcm is like looking for a needle in a haystack! :)
Good luck
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XVTer



Joined: 09 Jul 2013
Posts: 114
Location: VT

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally got around to tearing into my transmission over the weekend. I was hopeful that I would just simply replace the (Front Brake) solenoid and it'd be all good, but I ran into a bit more resistance once I got deeper in the transmission. Sorry for the lengthy post, bit maybe this'll help someone in the future who is experiencing this issue.

I purchased this, our 2nd Pathfinder, the week of Thanksgiving for next to nothing knowing it had a transmission code stored, but it seemed to shift strong so I was hopeful that it was just an electrical or programming issue. Worst case, for what I paid, I figured it'd be worth putting a reman'd transmission in it when the time came. I did the bypass right away and drained/filled fluids and didn't see any indication of cross-contamination.

Shortly after this, I lost the use of 5th gear as explained in the post above with the P1757 code coming on intermittently but being able to clear with my ScanGauge. I got around this by pushing the O/D off button and simply driving it for a while with just 4 gears. I don't drive on the highway much so it didn't really bother me.

Fast forward to last week and the transmission went into limp mode - P1757 and unable to clear the fault with my ScanGauge. From what I could tell, it got locked in 4th gear. I drove it home and tried to unhook the battery and clear the codes but when I tried to drive it again, it seemed to be locked in 2nd gear and there seemed to be a lot of vibration internal to the transmission.

I ordered the new solenoid for the valve body and picked up some dielectric silicone and some electrical cleaner. My hope was that it'd be the solenoid or maybe an easy fix on the circuit board - similar to what I've seen on some of the Z cars when researching this issue with this family of transmissions online.

I drained the transmission and dropped the pan.


I then pulled the valve body out and removed the solenoids and the transmission control module. I tested the solenoids and they all seemed to be within a close range of each other on resistance.





I then turned my focus to the Transmission Control Module (TCM) and split it apart hoping to find a loose or broken connection. I didn't notice anything like I'd seen in my research, but once I popped the covers that connect the CPU (or whatever it's called) to the rest of the circuit board, I noticed a large amount of 'gunk' built up there.



My guess is that there was either coolant contamination from a previous owner or somehow it just built up corrosion over time. Tough to say since I bought the Pathfinder with 151k miles on it. Long story short, I spent about a half hour tediously cleaning out the 'gunk' and inspecting the connections to the CPU to find that one of the connections wasn't terminated. Seems as though it corroded through the connection between the pin coming from the CPU and the tab on the electrical board.


All of this took much longer than I anticipated so I apologize, but don't have pictures of after it was fixed - it was getting after midnight and I just wanted to get it buttoned up for a test drive. I got the connection cleaned up and re-soldered, covered the connections with the dielectric silicone to hopefully prevent future/further corrosion and put everything back together. I put in the new front brake solenoid since I already had it on-hand and filled the transmission with Valvoline MAXLife ATF - it took about 8 quarts of the 12 I had on-hand but I'll continue to monitor the levels for a few days.

To my surprise, I took the Pathfinder for a test drive and it works great. No codes, the transmission shifts well, the 5th gear works and I'm experiencing none of the vibrations I was getting previously. I'd say it shifts as good as our 2010 does. I am by no means an electrician and have minimal experience soldering from the few times I did it in college like 10 years ago (mechanical engineer). I'd say that if someone is competent with a wrench you can do this repair yourself as well. I've got around $100 into the new solenoid and transmission screen and around $70 in transmission fluid. I figured it'd be worth a shot vs. sourcing a reman or used transmission, plus doing the removal/install.

Hopefully this'll help someone in the future!
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disallow
Site Admin


Joined: 13 Aug 2008
Posts: 2563
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2017 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome post! Keep us updated on how it does.

Your braver than I digging into the guts of your transmission like that!
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'05 Pathfinder SE Premium 4x4 - 270000kms (168000mi) - weekend warrior, Cortex Superchips on 87 Octane Tune, K&N filtercharger, Airlift 1000, Prodigy Brake controller, 7 pin trailer hookup, Prostart Remote Starter, Bilstein 4600 rear shocks, Cooper Discoverer ATw P265/70/16
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Melia



Joined: 03 Dec 2016
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 4:58 pm    Post subject: changed the valve body but nothing!!!! Reply with quote

Hello

Im after some advice please, We have just got around to changing the valve body in our 2006 Nissan Pathfinder but it wont move at all Sad

Any suggestions?
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XVTer



Joined: 09 Jul 2013
Posts: 114
Location: VT

PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am pretty sure it needs to be programmed by a dealer. Tow + 1/2 hr labor + like $120 programming fee = Sad

It literally takes them 5 mins, too.
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