Moderator: volvite
Pads & rotors look good, but brakes are squeaking upon light application (and only below 10 mph).smj999smj wrote: If you want to take it a step further, you can remove the pads and coat the contact surfaces of the abutment clips and the metal shims on the back of the pads with a thin layer of copper-slip or brake-specific grease and re-assemble. While apart, the brake caliper slide pins should also be checked to make sure they slide freely.
You are always so thorough & helpful, THANK YOU!smj999smj wrote:I've haven't used Sli-Glyde, but I have used Nissan Silicone Grease, which was a paste-like consistency. It worked great for the caliper slide pins! A couple of things about the slide pins.. First, to answer your question, the slide pins don't have a torque spec because they simply slide into the bore of the caliper bracket. One of those slide pins (on each caliper) will have a rubber bushing on it; these are available as part of a brake pin boot kit, which will have two bushings and four pin boots to service one axle. Sometimes when you remove the pin (in my experience, especially true on the rear brakes on the R51), the bushing will swell and make it very difficult...if not impossible...to reinstall the pin. The boot kits are usually only a few dollars and if you plan to lube the slide pins, it may save you a major headache if you purchased them prior to working on the vehicle because the local parts store may or may not have them in stock. Also, don't over-grease the pins because you might not be able to get them into the bracket bore. You want the pins to be free of rust with a light coating of lube on them. The bolts that screw into the slide pins, which hold the caliper to the bracket, have a torque spec of 32 lb-ft.
As far as lube on the pads, you want a generous amount where the end tabs of the pads and the abutment clips make contact. You want a thin layer of lubricant between the back side of the pad and the inner shim, between the inner and outer shim and on the outer shim. You don't want to go with a thick layer because you don't want it coming off of the brake pad and getting onto the pad lining nor rotor surface. It also doesn't hurt to use deglaze the pad lining and rotor surface with some 120 grit sandpaper. For the pads, wrap the sandpaper around a flat sanding block or similar and run the pad across it. Of course, do this before you start lubing everything! With the rotors, spray them down with brake cleaner after scuffing them up.
Thank you for the part numbers!smj999smj wrote:The caliper pin boot kits are all about the same. Rockauto sells AC Delco 18K2071 (front) and 18K1382 (rear), Carlson 16185 (front) and 16055 (rear) and Raybestos H16185 (front) and H16013 (rear). Advance Auto Parts sells Wearever 18021A (rear) and 16185 (front)...which may or may not be in-stock at your local store, but can be ordered.