Clicking noise when trying to start

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boontis
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 12:57 pm
Location: Calgary, AB

Clicking noise when trying to start

Postby boontis » Sat Oct 27, 2018 9:00 am

I’ve done some searching here but looking for some guidance on what’s next. The other day I drove to work - truck was running fine. At the end of the day I came out and the started was just clicking when I tried to start it. I assumed dead battery and had a coworker try to boost me. (I had the radio reset and was getting the fluttering gauges). He has a civic and even with his car running and hooked up to boosters the pathy would just barely turn over one or two times. So I replaced the battery - and the truck started right up! Drove for 30 minutes. Stopped and let it sit for about an hour. Started up fine again and drove another 30 mins. I left it overnight and when I tried starting it again nothing but clicks. I have cleaned and even replaced a terminal as it was a bit corroded. Still clicks and I’ve have the trickle charger on it all night.

It’s not just one click but like a machine gun sound when you hit the key.

Does this sound like a starter? Or should I be checking other things first?


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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Sat Oct 27, 2018 8:14 pm

Loose battery cable ends are a common problem on these vehicles. Make sure you can't turn them by hand after you've tightened them. If that's good, then check the battery voltage. If it's well under 12 volts, you probably have a parasitic draw that's draining the battery when it's not running. You should also check your charging system to make sure that your alternator is charging the system properly.

boontis
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 12:57 pm
Location: Calgary, AB

Postby boontis » Sun Oct 28, 2018 8:58 am

Ya I double checked the cable ends and they are tight. I put the meter on the battery last night and it was 13.35. This morning it’s 10.93.

I’m guessing that isn’t normal?

Any suggestions on the best place to start hunting for the parasitic draw? It’s strange that this just started happening one day as the truck was running great and I haven’t done any work on it lately!

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smj999smj
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:13 pm
Location: Prospect, VA

Postby smj999smj » Sun Oct 28, 2018 10:31 am

The battery will normally settle down to a static charge of about 12.2 volts. If the battery is good and the voltage is dropping to under 11v, then it's pretty safe to assume that something is drawing it down when it sits, not running. Acceptable draw is 50-milliamps or less. Of course, the only way you are going to measure that is with an amp meter (typically with a 2-amp shunt) or using a parasitic draw test, placed between the positive battery post and the disconnected positive battery cable. The "poor man's way" would use a 12v test light between the cable and the battery post. Make sure all of the accessories are turned off and the key is out of the ignition and all doors are closed (or, door open and door switch disabled) when testing. Key should be out of the ignition and wait for a minute before pulling fuses. Remove fuses or fusible links until the draw falls into specs (or the test light dims or goes out). From there, you can identify the circuit and disconnect components on that circuit (after reinstalling the fuse, obviously) until the light dims or goes out on the test light. You will need to access wiring diagrams for your vehicle; the best place would be the factory service manual.

boontis
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 12:57 pm
Location: Calgary, AB

Postby boontis » Mon Oct 29, 2018 1:59 pm

wanted to close the loop here for the benefit of other users :)

after doing more testing I figured out that there actually DOES NOT appear to be any parasitic draw. what I did find out was that there was still corrosion on the negative battery terminal and that this was preventing enough voltage from getting to the starter. washed it down with baking soda and water - and now it fires up nicely!

my old battery was causing so much corrosion it ultimately needed to be replaced anyways so luckily it was not some obscure circuit causing an issue - just good old fashioned chemistry preventing voltage :D

I'm still scratching my head as to why the radio lost its station settings initially though, and why I was getting the fluttering gauges. Maybe it was bad enough with the old battery that it dipped well below voltage and the computer was reset?

Regardless I'm back up and running!


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