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Instrument cluster mph to kph

 
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freerider



Joined: 05 Jan 2019
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 11:48 am    Post subject: Instrument cluster mph to kph Reply with quote

Hi guys I got my 2010 Paty today .Im new here can you help me with couple questions.

1.My instrument cluster is in miles (originaly us car) .Is it possible just change instrument cluster from Canadian pathfinder ? will this work ? or I also need change ecu ?

2.regards trasmission strawberry milkshake ,how is it with this issue for 2010 did they fixed this problem in factory or still needs to be fixed (bypass or new radiator)

Thank you for any advise .
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underworld1001



Joined: 27 Nov 2016
Posts: 175
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most US cars tend to have the KM listed as well next to the MPH numbers, just in smaller numbers. If you switch to KM, you may also have to switch the ECU, but that's just a guess.
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palmerwmd
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Joined: 31 Jan 2017
Posts: 579
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the Path and congrats!! Very Happy

Please post up some pics!!!

We often get the SMOD question especially about the transition model year of 2010... here is the skinny:

http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=17198
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freerider



Joined: 05 Jan 2019
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

palmerwmd wrote:
Welcome to the Path and congrats!! Very Happy

Please post up some pics!!!

We often get the SMOD question especially about the transition model year of 2010... here is the skinny:

http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=17198


Thank you very useful .I was ready do SMOD this weekend .So now I can go chcek my radiator number THX very useful .I finaly solved problem with my instrument cluster and bought obd HUD display


Last edited by freerider on Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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freerider



Joined: 05 Jan 2019
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So my radiator is 21460 ZL11A not sure if Im ok but it looks good as I see in your list .One more question when I cheked dipstick and my Trans oil is clear or slightly yellow .And my coolant is green . Is this ok this is first time when I saw yellow trans oil .
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palmerwmd
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Joined: 31 Jan 2017
Posts: 579
Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

freerider wrote:
So my radiator is 21460 ZL11A not sure if Im ok but it looks good as I see in your list .One more question when I checked dipstick and my Trans oil is clear or slightly yellow .And my coolant is green . Is this ok this is first time when I saw yellow trans oil .


The ZL11A rarely fails.. but it has done before its just rare.
I would consider a radiator replacement just in case. (keep reading in that thread).. but its not this huge urgency as if it was one of the early radiators.

You transoil should NOT be clear.
Get new ATF in there ASAP.
Healthy transmission fluid is red.

Coolant can be green... In 2010 the coolant switched to "Nissan Blue". But yours might be an early 2010... Whats the date on your doorjamb?

Either way put either new "Nissan Green" Or "Nissan Blue" (better) in there.
Here is a thread on this subject:
http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=16926

Very Happy
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freerider



Joined: 05 Jan 2019
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Door jamb say's 05/10 .

When I googled "clear transmission fluid" I found this frontier forum looks like I'm not only one with clear TF (exactly same colour like is on pictures in this topic).Like I said it was first time when I saw different colour than red .Car shifting very good up and down pretty smooth.

https://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/clear-automatic-transmission-fluid-78549/
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palmerwmd
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Joined: 31 Jan 2017
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Location: Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

freerider wrote:
Door jamb say's 05/10 .

When I googled "clear transmission fluid" I found this frontier forum looks like I'm not only one with clear TF (exactly same colour like is on pictures in this topic).Like I said it was first time when I saw different colour than red .Car shifting very good up and down pretty smooth.

https://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/clear-automatic-transmission-fluid-78549/


A 5/10 production date is actually a pretty late 10 model almost an 11.
Possibly previous owner changed the coolant once with aftermarket green.
But likely not the real good "Green" Nissan uses.
Not urgent but consider replacing.

Both Nissan Matic J and Nissan Matic S are red fluids.
So is Valvoline MaxLife ATF And Castrol synthetic Import both popular aftermarket ATFs for our vehicles.

The red dye has approximately the same heat resistance as some key additives in your ATF that it needs to work properly.

I've been taught that when the red dye in the ATF is destroyed it may mean key additives in your ATF are too.

As a minimum I would do a drain and refill.
The temptation to do a dealer flush is great.. but if the fluid is too dirty and the dealer flush machine presses that dirt into the valvebody it can make the valvebody have issues.

I always thought that was an urban legend but just about 18 months ago I had a dealer flush done in an Xterra (same transmission as us) and within 100-200 miles I had big slippage and needed a new valvebody (which I stupidly had done at the dealer at cha-ching $2300 and that was with a discount)

So long story short.. do a drain and refill.
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freerider



Joined: 05 Jan 2019
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thx for reply .New oil is home so next thing is drain and refill ATF, than radiator with coolant.
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smj999smj
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Joined: 22 Jan 2012
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Location: Prospect, VA

PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2019 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NissanMatic Types "J" and "S" ATF can be deceiving. It is a dark red when you see it come out of the bottle. When draining it into a container, it actually looks burnt as it seems to be a brownish-red color. However, on the dipstick, it is a very clear color and not the red color one would expect to find when checking ATF. I could see where it might be perceived as a "yellow-ish" color by some people. The factory fill is a synthetic trans oil and lasts a long time under normal driving conditions; as long as one doesn't see white streaks in it, debris particles or strawberry custard on the dipstick, it is probably fine. If you switch to one of the compatible, aftermarket ATF's, like Valvoline Maxlife Full-synthetic ATF, one will notice the fluid does show up as a cherry red color on the dipstick and when serviced, usually after the second or third service or after a flush.

One misconception about transmission flush machines: they do not force trans fluid into the transmission at higher pressures than what the transmission itself does. They are not designed like that...at least none of the ones I ever used. A better term for them would be "fluid exchanger." The machine has two hoses; one connects to the outlet side, trans cooler fitting on the radiator (usually the left side on Nissans) and the other hose connects to the trans cooler hose that would connect to that fitting, essentially "T-ing" into the cooler line. The machine has a pressure gauge and a switch to bypass the internal bladder tank or to send the old fluid to the bladder tank inside the machine. There may also be a "spinning wheel" gauge to show that the fluid is moving and allows one to see the color of fluid passing through the machine. Once hooked up to the machine, it is filled with new transmission fluid the equivalent of the transmission's capacity spec (usually 12-13 quarts) which goes to one side of the bladder inside of the storage tank. Sometimes a pre-conditioner is poured into the vehicle and run at idle for 10-15 minutes before the flush, but is not necessarily needed and the same goes for a small bottle of conditioner that is added after the flush on some trans 'flushes." With the transmission fluid at normal operating temperature, the selector is turned to flush mode and the old fluid being pushed out by the transmission enters the storage tank on the other side of the internal bladder. As it pushes against the bladder, it causes fluid on the other side to get pushed into the return line back to the transmission and into the trans pan. This is why the pressure back to the trans is equal to the amount of pressure of the fluid being pushed out by the transmission, itself. The machine has no "pump" in it. Typical pressure usually runs anywhere from 6-13 PSI on most vehicles, so it is not a high-pressure system. When the fluid exchange is complete and the bladder is full, the "spinning wheel" gauge will slow down...or the machine will notify you in some other way, depending on manufacturer, and it can be switched to bypass mode and turned off. The hoses are removed, the trans cooler hooked back up to the fitting on the radiator, conditioner is added into the dipstick tube if being used. The vehicle is started and run for a couple of minutes and the transmission fluid level is checked and topped off, if needed. So, really the only thing that can go wrong is if the incorrect ATF is used on a particular vehicle. One can do the same thing at home by installing a trans funnel into the dipstick, disconnecting and plugging off the return cooler hose and install a 5/16" drain hose onto the radiator cooler fitting and draining it into a bucket or three, one-gallon jugs. If you get Valvoline Maxlife in the one-gallon jugs, it makes it easier. You start the vehicle and as the old fluid fills the drain bucket or jug, you add a similar amount back into the trans funnel using new fluid. If you have a helper, it makes it a lot easier. The result is the same.
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