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Wes



Joined: 18 Jun 2008
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2019 11:39 am    Post subject: CEL Reply with quote

Hello - 2001 3.5L 216k and I have 3 engine codes. Car seems to run fine. I used the website Engine_light_help.com to find these code descriptions.

P1135 - Intake Valve Time Control Circuit Bank 2
P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 circuit malfunction Bank 1 or Single Sensor
P0140 - Oxygen Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected Bank 1 Sensor 2

Now I am thinking that I don't want to run out and replace all the sensors. I think that knock sensor is under the manifold and there is only 1 on my car. Is it possible these are related somehow and fixing one thing will alleviate the other problems? Any suggestions on the best place to start?

Thanks!
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smj999smj
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Joined: 22 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2019 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The oxygen sensor, Bank 1/Sensor 2, is the rear oxygen sensor on the right side bank (passenger side in the US). It "could" be a broken wire or, very unlikely, a bad ECM, but most often it's a bad oxygen sensor. Stick with NTK brand or Denso when replacing. Rear oxygen sensors do no affect driving performance as they are only there to monitor the catalytic converter efficiency.

Knock sensors do fail occasionally. They do not affect drivability and while they will trigger a code if they are bad, they usually only set the CEL if there is an open or shorted circuit. However, often they will set a code (and not turn on the CEL) when they detect a "knock." A rule of thumb is that if the knock sensor code exists with other engine codes, you should address the other code(s) and then erase all codes. If the knock sensor code does not come back after fixing the other problems, the knock sensor is working fine. The sensor is located under the lower intake manifold, on top of the engine block.

The P1135 is a little more complicated. First, make sure the engine oil is clean and at the proper level. If the oil is low, top it off, erase the code and see if it returns. If it doesn't return, then your next step is to figure out why the oil was low. This will usually be one of three reasons: it wasn't filled up all the way after an oil change, there is an oil leak or the engine is burning the oil (VQ35DE engines of this era sometimes developed stuck oil compression rings in the piston landings, which created an oil burning engine. The fix is to rebuild or replace the engine).
If the oil is found to be full and not dirty, check the oil pressure with a test gauge. If the oil is below spec, there is always the chance of excessive bearing clearance or a bad oil pump; however, more likely is that the oil gallery cover gasket(s) on the rear timing cover have started leaking. It's a pretty big job to replace them, as the front engine has to be taken apart.
If it's not an oil or oil pressure issue, then the factory service manual should be used to follow the diagnostic steps for DTC P1135. NICO Club's website allows free access to their Nissan online factory service manuals. Here's a link to a description of the problem (they do no mention the oil or oil pressure as possibly being part of the problem, but that was made known per Nissan bulletin NTB06-079a.
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Wes



Joined: 18 Jun 2008
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 3:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I was planning on tackling the P1135 first and see if it affected the other codes. I checked the oil last night and it was between the marks so I added just enough to get close to the top mark in order to increase the oil pressure. This oil is only about 2k miles old. There is a slight leak at either the oil pan gasket and the main seal. I haven't verified or gotten a second opinion. I think there are two oil pan gaskets on this car and I would like a more qualified mechanic to check it out. If the main seal is leaking it's going to have to leak a lot before I replace it because there is no way that is cheap.

I was thinking of also swapping the sensors when I actually find them (left and right) and see if the code comes up on the other side (P1145) to determine if the sensor is at fault. Based on your response that would be wishful thinking on my part.

I will post results.

That's as far as I got last night because I noticed the car was full of water in the drivers side floor. I sprung a leak in the rain so I gotta run that down.
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Wes



Joined: 18 Jun 2008
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2019 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changed direction.

First the other sensor would throw code P1140 according to my Haynes manual not the 1145. Haynes calls this the Variable Valve control Sensor. And hopefully Bank 2 is the driver side because thats the one I was working on.

Rockauto calls this the camshaft position sensor.

Their diagnostic said to remove connector and check for voltage. Works. Then remove sensor and check for resistance on the sensor pins in a particular order and polarity. No Ohms means bad sensor so according to Haynes this sensor is bad.

Now for my next question (s). What does that sensor sit in? Because looking into that hole is like the devils anus. It did not look healthy. Does oil flow through there? If so I need an oil clean out or something as there was dried debris in there. Note the car hasn't been started in 24 hours. I vacuumed it out.

Any opinions on the health of my engine based on that?
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Heavy hitter



Joined: 30 Dec 2018
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bank 2 is drivers side. You can clean the holes out where they go. They get gunned up pretty easy. Scrape out as much funk as you can. Put the sensor back in. Run a can of seafoam in your oil for a few days and then do an oil change
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Heavy hitter



Joined: 30 Dec 2018
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd also suggest removing the VVT bodies, cleaning them and shooting compressed air into the 5 holes where they mount up on top of the engine
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Wes



Joined: 18 Jun 2008
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you guys buy into the Seafoam thing? I have been skeptical of it.

What's a VVT body?

I religiously change the oil in the rig every 5000 miles. Same factory oil. No synthetic or anything.
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Heavy hitter



Joined: 30 Dec 2018
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seafoam is great. I run it in the oil before and oil change and suck it through the brake booster line.
As for the valve body....the actual solenoid itself is what I was referring to. The metal part that bolts to the motor. Clean it all up real good.
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Wes



Joined: 18 Jun 2008
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 4:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I tackled the P1135 first and changed the Variable valve positiong/ camshaft positioning sensor for bank 2 (drivers side). Oreilly wouldn't clear my codes so I ordered myself a bluetooth code reader to pair with a spare android phone i have and got it yesterday and cleared the codes. I read them before I cleared them and the 02 sensor code was gone, but the other two remain. I hoping that they just need to be cleared. We will see what happens over the next few days.
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Wes



Joined: 18 Jun 2008
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For those reading along and trying to solve their own issues...

P1140 and P1145 are the codes for the actual sensor

P1110 and P1135 are the codes for the system

P1111 and P1136 are the codes for the solenoid.

So this morning I swapped the sensors, cleared the codes and the codes are back. This time I get P1110 and P0325. So swapping the sensor moves the error to the other side which leads me to believe the brand new sensor is bad. But the sensors tested exactly the same.

I read through the manual on the NICO site but it is greek to me and I don't have a consult tool. If anyone wants to read it here is the link and its page EC-448.
https://nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2001/ec.pdf

Too add to this confusion I am not sure at this point which sensor is which. The manual references the crankshaft position sensors (POS and REF), the camshaft position sensor, coolant temp and vehicle speed sensors. Note that if you are looking for parts I have found sites that like to call the camshaft position sensors, crankshaft position sensor. Parts guy at local nissan confirmed this change in terminology. WTH Nissan?

Any suggestions as to next steps? Buy an OEM sensor? But if the sensor isn't working right why no sensor error? why the system error?

If it is a problem with oil pressure, leaking oil, the actual cams, valves, solenoid..why did the error jump sides after the sensor switch? Strange right?

And can someone confirm the location of these intakes valve timing control sensor? Bank 2 top right, bank 1 lower left and the sit in identical housings.
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smj999smj
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Joined: 22 Jan 2012
Posts: 5318
Location: Prospect, VA

PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crankshaft position sensor (REF) sits below the crank pulley (harmonic balancer)

Crankshaft position sensor (POS) is at the bottom of the transmission bellhousing.

Camshaft position sensor (PHASE) will be on front of the timing cover, several inches above the water pump cover plate.

Bank 1, or right bank, is on the passenger side of North American Pathfinders.
Bank 2, or left bank, is on the driver's side of North American Pathfinders.

The IVTC sensors are located just past the rear timing cover on the engine and accessible from the top. Refer to page EC-489 in the FSM. It's not the best picture, but hopefully enough to help you figure out where they are based on their connectors.

As far as it being an oil pressure related failure, that was only a possibility of what could cause the codes. The only way to be sure is to test the oil pressure with a mechanical test gauge installed at the oil pressure switch port. It could very well be a sensor issue. As far as sensors, it's always best to stick with genuine Nissan when possible, or Hitachi. If you have to go aftermarket, I would go with Standard Motor Parts/Intermotor, because they are often made in Japan. I usually steer clear of brands like Borg-Warner or Airtex-Wells when it comes to sensors, which is often the brands a lot of the big chain part stores offer.
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Wes



Joined: 18 Jun 2008
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SMJ _ thanks for the reply. I think I know part of my problem. Using my Haynes manual and looking up the original code I was stuck on Variable Valve part of this problem and looked that in the Haynes index and followed the procedures for checking and replacing the VVT Intake sensor at bank 2 (drivers side top of that bank fron of the engine). That sensor isn't part of the problem according to the codes I am generating and the FSM. It is one of the other sensors (crank or cam) Add to that confusion that RockAuto calls the IVTC sensor the Camshaft intake sensor and Nissan is now starting to call it a crankshaft sensor. See here https://www.prioritynissanparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-crankshaft-sensor-237312y52e?origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw4ZTqBRBZEiwAHHxpfmKKkeF2G5f4BZIS-qr2lj-57tmLatggt2jg2RdsRyavpPRv9z8TzxoC6cwQAvD_BwE

The Nissan parts guy mentioned this to me yesterday.

So based on everything so far I should really be testing the actual Crankshaft position sensor's and Camshaft position sensor (which is right below the IVTC intake sensor, driver side).

Now my last question why did the code error follow the IVTC sensor when I moved it from one bank to the other? P1110 and P1135 are for the VVT system, but those sensors are not referenced in it (although I can see how they are related).

It's quite possible I am in over my head here, but interesting to figure out. Probably easier for me to drop off at Nissan, but I wouldn't learn anything. Thanks for everyones help getting this into my thick skull.
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Wes



Joined: 18 Jun 2008
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pulled and tested resistance on the Camshaft sensor today and there was none. Had a lot of oil on the harness for some reason. Cleaned it up real good and now am going to try and find a new one. This one was Mitsubishi.
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smj999smj
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Joined: 22 Jan 2012
Posts: 5318
Location: Prospect, VA

PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Cam sensor would be Nissan 23731-2Y510 and runs about $100 from NissanPartsDeal.com. If you head over to Rockauto.com and look at Beck~Arnley 1800302 for $29, you'll notice in the pics that the sensor has the Mitsubishi tri-diamond symbol on the sensor in the pictures. Now, I can't guarantee that's what you'll get in the box, but Beck~Arnley often re-package OEM parts. I've also had good luck with SMP/Intermotor as many times the sensors are made in Japan and it is the same price as the Beck~Arnley.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=480478&cc=1432945&jsn=876&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86%2BAYIh%2F8vGRbRbhjuvPMGKovrEywsF11ko17ihPyNT0gG5UvMiMtlzW1U9AzIWrv7UNQF0j56t5cNVa29P2yZsFHl%2FWgTlX1ctm7wGDG795SjEh2SK77kK%2Fg1hrJnU%2BLG%2BpqgpNe1rtR6BSTQsv5iurTBYxv6%2FqFKcK%2Fm6xIw5acvf3c9%2FXdr%2BRAkeIcOAPveUX66KPAK%2FTyR5CTt9oOqiqT8TinITBcBD2wFBfEyikm4eZFPCPnxYJ4OiWfYtpjiKBeCazRiKYaCILTQASCE%2Bfuh3dzm4oqRBDrNdNHP8iEnNpG6Z30sj5fSVZ0OCOgghfVJQ&jsn=876&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86%2BAYIh%2F8vGRbRbhjuvPMGKovrEywsF11ko17ihPyNT0gG5UvMiMtlzW1U9AzIWrv7UNQF0j56t5cNVa29P2yZsFHl%2FWgTlX1ctm7wGDG795SjEh2SK77kK%2Fg1hrJnU%2BLG%2BpqgpNe1rtR6BSTQsv5iurTBYxv6%2FqFKcK%2Fm6xIw5acvf3c9%2FXdr%2BRAkeIcOAPveUX66KPAK%2FTyR5CTt9oOqiqT8TinITBcBD2wFBfEyikm4eZFPCPnxYJ4OiWfYtpjiKBeCazRiKYaCILTQASCE%2Bfuh3dzm4oqRBDrNdNHP8iEnNpG6Z30sj5fSVZ0OCOgghfVJQ
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Wes



Joined: 18 Jun 2008
Posts: 91

PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I a tested the new camshaft sensor. It works. Then pulled and tested the old one. It works. I am not sure why i got the incorrect readings the first time. Maybe I was confused.

So I tested the Crankshaft POS, Crankshaft REF, Camshaft Phase, IVTC sensors....they are all good as far as I can tell.

In the FSM it says to give PO325 priority over the other codes but it everything else I have read says Knock Sensor errors are uncommon and usually its best to clear the other codes first. The car has no issues running.

By the way - I had ordered an Intermotor Camshaft sensor and it came from Taiwan. I ordered a Beck Arnley fuel filter at the same time and it came from China.
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