Fuel gauge issues

**** PLEASE USE SUBTOPICS BELOW FOR NEW TOPICS ****

Moderator: volvite

User avatar
Tech
Posts: 395
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 2:46 pm

Postby Tech » Mon May 17, 2010 6:39 pm

I call BS. Sound like they spun your pump asmb when they re-installed it. Ask to see the top of the asseembly when it's out. You'll find that the white tab (there is only one) on the top of the pump assembly has been cut into by the lock ring tab on the tank. This happens if you're not carefull when reinstalling the lock ring. It should be intact and not have any slit on it at all. If it does, your sender will hang up. It is NOT because the tank flexes.....total BS. If that were the case, you would have had the tank flex with your old sender. The tab-cut is a rookie mistake alot of techs have been making. Insist on a new assembly if any damage is evident.


skwerl
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu May 13, 2010 10:35 am
Location: Birmingham, AL

Postby skwerl » Thu May 20, 2010 5:55 am

After showing empty until the second turn of my switch, my gauge seems to have reset and is working now. Cross my fingers and hope it doesn't fail again.

Is it normal for that to happen if you run too low on gas quite a bit?

User avatar
HillbillyJake
Posts: 352
Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:55 pm
Location: Pitcairn Pa.

Postby HillbillyJake » Thu May 20, 2010 9:25 pm

it will happen again. mine did. after i fill up the truck it takes about an hour for the gauge to go to full. by that time the check engine light comes on. after about 100-150 miles it goes back off again.

skwerl
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu May 13, 2010 10:35 am
Location: Birmingham, AL

Postby skwerl » Fri May 21, 2010 6:32 am

I forgot to mention the post I posted before this one. I don't know if you read it or not...basically mine did the same thing yours did but my battery went dead that night. After I jump started it the next morning I had the check engine light on, the dte was flashing and showed ----, the gauge showed empty. I went to work and when I came out for lunch, the gauge was nearly full, the dte was right, and the check engine light was off.

I ran it until I had about 15 miles on the dte, put about half a tank in and it's still fine. I'd be curious to find out if anybody else disconnects their battery and can get the sensor to reset correctly...and for how long.

User avatar
HillbillyJake
Posts: 352
Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:55 pm
Location: Pitcairn Pa.

Postby HillbillyJake » Fri May 21, 2010 8:55 am

I will give it a shot. I have to fill up the truck today. I will let you know what I come up with.

Citcope
Posts: 127
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2008 3:17 pm
Location: Northern Virginia

Postby Citcope » Fri May 21, 2010 8:24 pm

mine was every third fill up it had an issue. I took it to the local dealer here they finally figured out the problem by talking to Nissan of America and they fixed the issue...... well temporarily anyway. Its now back doing it AGAIN. This would be the 10th time into the dealer to get this issue fixed. I am beyond frustrated and i am still waiting for my refund check to come back to me for the original repairs for this.

skwerl
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu May 13, 2010 10:35 am
Location: Birmingham, AL

Postby skwerl » Mon May 24, 2010 6:31 am

My dte started showing 0 miles at a quarter of a tank.

At least the level gauge is working...for now.

User avatar
HillbillyJake
Posts: 352
Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:55 pm
Location: Pitcairn Pa.

Postby HillbillyJake » Mon Jun 07, 2010 1:55 pm

Well I replaced my sending unit on Saturday. all in all it was not a bad job. it took a couple of hours to do.I found that the hardest part was disconnecting the evap line. that stupid little horseshoe clip did not want to come out. then disconnecting the power clip for the fuel pump was a pain also. had to lower the tank a few inches and reach up and over the driveshaft and do it blind. so far things are working good though. I filled up the truck and the needle responded right away. I hope this fixes it for a while. I want to start buying more accessories again and not parts. :lol:

NVRDONE
Posts: 159
Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 1:35 pm
Location: seattle

Postby NVRDONE » Wed Jun 16, 2010 2:23 pm

Well, yesterday the pathy went to the dealer for the 4th repair on the sending unit.
This time they replaced the complete unit - pump, sender, float etc.
I filled up after I picked up the car & the guage went straight to full.
After about 75 miles of driving, I'm down to 3/4 of a tank, so the guage seems to be working corectly.
We shall see.

boogyman
Posts: 519
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 6:04 am
Location: Jersey

Postby boogyman » Sat Jun 19, 2010 7:54 pm

Just did mine today. Hit a few snags, one being the power connector, and the other a cross threaded nut. Plus my negative battery connector was stretched and I had to reshape it to get it to stay on. The 90 degree temps didn't help any, but I got it all back together and it's working the way it did a year ago. Luckily I have a tap and die set to fix problems like today's. I couldn't figure out how to release the power connector and just happen to push it in the middle back and it came right off. I ended up using a 3/8 extension to tap the lock off the pump. Used a shop towel so I wouldn't make any sparks while tapping it. If anybody does this themselves like me, I hope these little findings help someone have less of a headache. Now I can finally drive around without a CEL on. YEAH!!!!

LittleStevie
Posts: 193
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 4:32 am
Location: West Palm Beach, FL

Postby LittleStevie » Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:08 am

My sending unit just went at 76k...just a few weeks ago I threw away the letter for the 72k mile extended warranty since I was already over. Great timing. After Nissan quoting me ~$500, it was an easy decision to DIY with parts cost at $105.

The service manual instructs you to remove the driveshaft, but I haven't heard anything about it on the forums. I can't see any reason to remove it...is there something I'm missing?

Just getting under the truck, I don't see any way to get my hands on those lines/connectors you need to remove before dropping the tank. I'm guessing it must be easier with it jacked up and wheel off, but I'm not seeing how suspension travel will help...seems like they're between the tank and frame. How did everyone get in there to get the connectors off?

skwerl
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu May 13, 2010 10:35 am
Location: Birmingham, AL

Postby skwerl » Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:38 am

LittleStevie wrote:My sending unit just went at 76k...just a few weeks ago I threw away the letter for the 72k mile extended warranty since I was already over. Great timing. After Nissan quoting me ~$500, it was an easy decision to DIY with parts cost at $105.

The service manual instructs you to remove the driveshaft, but I haven't heard anything about it on the forums. I can't see any reason to remove it...is there something I'm missing?

Just getting under the truck, I don't see any way to get my hands on those lines/connectors you need to remove before dropping the tank. I'm guessing it must be easier with it jacked up and wheel off, but I'm not seeing how suspension travel will help...seems like they're between the tank and frame. How did everyone get in there to get the connectors off?
I believe there's a thread on this forum with a tutorial. From what I remember, you don't drop the tank all the way to get to the lines...just far enough. Use a hydraulic jack and ease it down.

LittleStevie
Posts: 193
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 4:32 am
Location: West Palm Beach, FL

Postby LittleStevie » Thu Dec 23, 2010 9:53 am

skwerl wrote:
LittleStevie wrote:My sending unit just went at 76k...just a few weeks ago I threw away the letter for the 72k mile extended warranty since I was already over. Great timing. After Nissan quoting me ~$500, it was an easy decision to DIY with parts cost at $105.

The service manual instructs you to remove the driveshaft, but I haven't heard anything about it on the forums. I can't see any reason to remove it...is there something I'm missing?

Just getting under the truck, I don't see any way to get my hands on those lines/connectors you need to remove before dropping the tank. I'm guessing it must be easier with it jacked up and wheel off, but I'm not seeing how suspension travel will help...seems like they're between the tank and frame. How did everyone get in there to get the connectors off?
I believe there's a thread on this forum with a tutorial. From what I remember, you don't drop the tank all the way to get to the lines...just far enough. Use a hydraulic jack and ease it down.
I'm talking about the lines you're supposed to remove before removing the straps and lowering the tank at all- the EVAP hose, fuel filler hose, and vent pipe connector, which apparently don't have enough slack to slightly lower the tank. I think I've found all of the relevant tutorials, but few seem to mention actually getting your fingers on the connectors as a problem. Maybe it all becomes doable when the truck is jacked and wheel comes off.

User avatar
Tech
Posts: 395
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 2:46 pm

Postby Tech » Thu Dec 23, 2010 8:03 pm

it's no biggie. if you pull of the wheel and duck your head in, they'll be literally right infront of you. Just on the front, just inside of the wheel well area.

LittleStevie
Posts: 193
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 4:32 am
Location: West Palm Beach, FL

Postby LittleStevie » Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:53 am

Good to hear, thanks. I'll probably tackle it late next week after my parts come in.


Return to “2005-2012 Pathfinder (R51)”