Looks like my rad has failed

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disallow
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Looks like my rad has failed

Postby disallow » Sun Oct 25, 2015 2:46 pm

So after owning this truck since 2007, and putting 100000 miles onto it, looks like the rad is finally failed. Funny, the timing of this is almost identical to my 98 civic back in the day, 10 years.

Will post pics, gotta figure out what we are going to do for a vehicle over the next few days.

Leaning towards the 'Various Manufacturers' version of the rad through RockAuto, as its listed at $115 Canadian + $36 shipping. Means it could be TYC, Spectra, or OMC, whatever they have in stock. As these are all pretty well recognized names, I'm ok with that, and the $30 or so discount that comes with it.


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Postby eieio » Sun Oct 25, 2015 3:26 pm

what failed on it Terry?
leaking externally?

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Sun Oct 25, 2015 5:42 pm

looks like its starting to separate from the bottom tank. There is coolant everywhere. But we've been driving daily and not topping off, or overheating, so I guess I caught it in time.

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Postby smj999smj » Sun Oct 25, 2015 5:52 pm

Better the tank leaked than the cooler!

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Postby disallow » Sun Oct 25, 2015 7:05 pm

agreed. Been bypassed for years already, so no worries there.

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Sun Oct 25, 2015 9:18 pm

You can see that the crimping is kind of warped. coolant is apparent!

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Here you can see dried coolant in the channels.

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Postby smj999smj » Sun Oct 25, 2015 11:17 pm

That's actually a pretty common failure on early Titan and Armada radiators.

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Postby Gottcha86 » Mon Oct 26, 2015 11:33 am

Same exact thing happened to my 06 with 110,000 miles on it

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Mon Oct 26, 2015 1:10 pm

I work in the heavy vehicle industry, and I have some contacts at our cooling system provider. Showed this pic to their chief engineer and he said he's concerned that I may have a blockage between the rad and the water pump. He said this pic is indicative of a large pressure spike, and he's suprised it didn't completely blow up.

I wonder if it has to do with the fact that the resevoir is remote and pressurized?

He thinks my pressure cap stuck, and blew out the bottom tank as its a little weaker due to having the transcooler in it.

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Postby eieio » Mon Oct 26, 2015 4:25 pm

disallow wrote:I work in the heavy vehicle industry, and I have some contacts at our cooling system provider. Showed this pic to their chief engineer and he said he's concerned that I may have a blockage between the rad and the water pump. He said this pic is indicative of a large pressure spike, and he's suprised it didn't completely blow up.

I wonder if it has to do with the fact that the resevoir is remote and pressurized?

He thinks my pressure cap stuck, and blew out the bottom tank as its a little weaker due to having the transcooler in it.
were it mine, I'd replace the radiator, both caps, any hoses that may be old enough to be compromised, and I'd consider a new reservoir if not too expensive
I don't think a blockage is likely to be an issue, but with all the other stuff removed, it would be easy to check for one
I have a feeling that your radiator took some time to have failed the way it did
This is something we should all take a look at on our trucks, both for dried coolant residue AND any warpage at the seams

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Postby smj999smj » Mon Oct 26, 2015 5:38 pm

I don't know.... If it were not for so many of these type of failures that have already occurred on Calsonic radiators in the Titans and Armadas, I mite agree. I think it's just poor manufacturing. As far as replacing stuff, there is no reason to replace the cap on the top of the radiator unless it's leaking, as it is not a pressure cap; it is simply there to put coolant into the system after it's been drained. It wouldn't hurt to change the one on the reservoir, though, because that IS the pressure cap in the system. The only reason to replace the reservoir is if it's cracked or broken and leaking. It can be easily removed and washed out, if that's what you wish to do.

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Postby Kestral » Mon Oct 26, 2015 6:44 pm

Had the same issue with my 2006 Toyota 4Runner same place of failure and 6 years and around 110,000 miles. I replaced the water pump at the same time just to be safe.

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Postby disallow » Tue Oct 27, 2015 2:05 pm

Parts ordered today: (All prices in Canadian $$, hence the high cost)

From Partsource:
Radiator - $259.99
Upper Rad Hose $8.50

From Nissan:
Fan Clutch - $225
Thermostat inc Housing - $62
Gasket - $3.30
Pressure Cap - $29.60
Gallon of Premix Coolant - $30 (I have 2 gallons in my garage already)

Piston Ring
Lower Rad Hose - $23.60

Total: $725.45 (including our ridiculously high sales tax)

Only other thing I think I need is some new hose clamps. I saw the foam seals on the rad, they look to be in fair condition so I will be reusing them.

Can anybody think of anything else I might need?
Last edited by disallow on Tue Oct 27, 2015 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Tue Oct 27, 2015 8:54 pm

Well I managed to remove the shroud, fan, clutch and radiator.

Next was the thermostat. Problem is that the one I got from the dealer is different than the one in my pathy. The one in my truck has an extra coolant port, the one from the dealer does not. See pic below.

Image

Image

What gives? SMJ, you aware of this change?

t

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Postby smj999smj » Wed Oct 28, 2015 1:45 pm

They gave you the wrong thermostat; the one they gave you is for a Maxima. The part you need is Nissan 21200-31U1B.


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