2010 Rogue AC not working - Not the Ambient Air Temp Sensor

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2010 Rogue AC not working - Not the Ambient Air Temp Sensor

Postby disallow » Thu Jun 02, 2016 11:36 am

Long story short, I bought a 2010 Rogue salvage title that has been rebuilt. I bought in February, with -20F ambient temps. So I did my best to determine if the AC was working, checked for pressure in the low pressure line, and felt that it was OK.

It was not.

Discovered that the compressor was completely seized, so yesterday I changed it out with a new unit from Rockauto, filled with oil, and recharged the R134a with 1.11lbs.

AC still not working. I did test the PCM, turn key off, turn key on, press door switch 10 times, turn key off, turn key on. And it went through the cycle of the headlights, wipers, fog lights, and the AC compressor clutch. Clutch definitely engaged, so compressor is working. YAY!

But still no AC. So I did some sleuthing around, and discovered that there is a plug dangling beside the horn in the grill, and based on experience this would be where the ambient air temp sensor would go.

I do not have Auto-AC or an external vehicle temp readout.

Is the Ambient Air Temperature sensor required to ensure the AC system will engage?

In any case, I've got a sensor on the way and will pick up and plug in after work to see if it gets me some AC!

Thoughts?

t
Last edited by disallow on Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Postby smj999smj » Fri Jun 03, 2016 8:16 pm

If you have manual A/C, you shouldn't have an ambient air temp sensor.

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Postby disallow » Sat Jun 04, 2016 2:14 pm

I did a more thorough inspection, and the refrigerant transducer is damaged. Got one on the way, gotta get the ac going!

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Postby disallow » Sat Jun 04, 2016 3:44 pm

SMJ,

To replace the transducer do I need to evac the refrigerant?

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Postby smj999smj » Sat Jun 04, 2016 3:54 pm

What do you call a "refrigerant transducer?" If you mean a pressure switch...then, "no." If you are referring to something else, you need to give me a part number or pic to let me know what you are talking about.

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Postby disallow » Sat Jun 04, 2016 4:59 pm

On the rogue it's a sensor threaded into the top of the receiver dryer. Apparently the same sensor for the pathy. Four seasons pn 20994.

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Postby smj999smj » Sat Jun 04, 2016 6:58 pm

Ok... I've always referred to them as pressure switches, but it's the same, more or less. I've never had to evacuate the refrigerant to replace a pressure switch on any A/C system as they usually incorporate a schrader valve, but I left Nissan in 2003 and can't be 100% sure that is the case for your Rogue. It would be stupid to design it that way, but, we all know manufacturers do stupid things sometimes! It should just screw off and on, but double-check the service manual if you don't get an answer from someone who has changed one on that model.

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Postby disallow » Mon Jun 06, 2016 9:00 am

I am troubled that I can't turn the compressor. Its brand new, and turned just fine before I installed it. As I mentioned above, we used the vacuum pump to push the right amount of R134a into the system, as we couldn't get the compressor to engage. When I checked my low side pressure (I have a gauge for the cheater cans of R134a you can buy from walmart) a few days later, it was way in the red, over 140PSI. I bled off the pressure, but the only thing that came out of the port was air (no refrigerant). I found this to be kinda weird.

With regards to to compressor, I am theorizing that either of the following has occurred:

1. The pressure on the low and high side is far to high, and preventing me from turning the compressor by hand.

2. The Compressor is 'slugged' and full of oil/refigerant, and can't turn.

3. There was contamination in the system, and the compressor is grenaded again. (dang)

What I plan to do is to do another evac on the system when I change the pressure switch. I will then check to see if the compressor is seized once it is evacced. If not seized, will refill and hopefully the compressor will engage which will allow me to fill the system properly.

If the compressor is seized, I guess I will have to get a new one (LT $200 rockauto) and I will also change the condensor (it was changed during the rebuild) along with the receiver dryer (again). Will also run a flush through the rest of the system.

Where is the expansion valve in this system? Under the dash?

Thanks for reading, let me know what you think.

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Postby smj999smj » Wed Jun 08, 2016 6:02 pm

You can't pull refrigerant effectively into a system using a vacuum pump. For starters, most modern systems don't have a very large capacity for refrigerant, usually in the 1-pount range and some even less. Capacity should be listed on a sticker in the engine compartment. If the refrigerant is not going into the system, there could be a clog. Make sure the system is not only evacuated, but at around 30" of vacuum. You cannot have any air or moisture in the system when you are ready to charge. Low and high side gauges are critical for accurate readings of the system. The compressor clutch can always be directly jumped to help pull in refrigerant on the low side, but without a high side gauge to monitor high side pressures, I do not advise this. You may be better served have a shop do the recharge.

Here's a link to a diagram of the expansion valve. It's not clear if you need to remove the case or not. Look for it on the engine side of the firewall. If you can see it, then you should be able to remove it from the engine compartment side. Chrysler's are set up that way and the expansion valve for your vehicle looks very similar to what they use.

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-li ... ?PNC=27624


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