Random wheel misalignent - Steering Angle Sensor

[dmchan]

I'm scratching my head with this weird little issue.
It started with the airbag light. Determined its the clockspring. No big, I'll get to it. A few weeks later I start getting the VDC light on randomly for a few seconds. This happens a handful of times over a few days and then it stays lit. Pulled down code C1143. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the clockspring so I go ahead and order one.
Before it arrives I'm on the highway and realize that my wheel is cocked like 10 degrees off center to drive straight. That seems super odd to me. I havent hit anything or messed with anything. The angle sensor shouldnt affect the actual alignment. Very odd.
So I just installed the new clockspring. Airbag light is off. Yay a win.
VDC light is still lit (now with C1163 in addition to C1143). And of course the wheel angle is still off.

I guess I need to get an alignment but what the hell would cause the wheel angle to suddenly be off like this?

Also - is there any chance that I just need the steering angle sensor relearn done without replacing the sensor? (I'm guessing c1143 means there is an actual fault in the sensor so it needs to be replaced)

thanks in advance for any insight.

[VStar650CL]

That's not alignment, that's something shifted in your steering or suspension. First thing to check is the splined couplers on the steering shaft. If one of those gets loose then the angle of the wheel will change every time it jumps splines (which will usually happen when you cut to the lock). If that isn't it, check the steering shaft u-joints. If that still isn't it, check for bad rack bushings or other things worn out in the front end and subframe. It's also possible the rack itself is worn out and the pinion jumped.

[dmchan]

Thanks for the prompt response. I've been swamped at work.

Yeah definitely something mechanical, I agree. I havent had the chance to get under it and have a closer look.
When you say the splined couplers on the steering shaft are you referring to the spines at the wheel behind the airbag or elsewhere?
At 150k any of those you listed could plausibly be worn. Just odd that whatever it is happened very near in time to the VDC light coming on.

Do you know of anything that would trigger the VDC error (C1143) AND the misaligned wheel?

[VStar650CL]

The Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) is keyed to the shaft at the steering wheel, so if any of the couplings between the wheel and the rack slip, the SAS is thrown out of kilter. The ABS knows from the wheel speeds when the vehicle is going straight and which direction it's turning, so as soon as the shaft slips it knows there's something wrong and lights up the Christmas tree.

IIRC there are three couplings on an R51, one at the base of the steering shaft, one at the rack, and one in between the upper and lower connecting shafts.

[dmchan]

That makes good sense. Thanks!
I crawled up under it today and couldnt find anything obvious. Guess I've got a rabbit hole to run down now.

[dmchan]

I found a guy to put it on a lift and let me inspect it. I found nothing out of the ordinary. Checked the passenger brake assy and the pins and pistons move freely.
Then I put my hands on the lower steering column assy. Now, it feels fine. No slop or play to speak of. But I see some things I dont know about. What I'm seeing in the linkage does not look like the parts diagrams I'm finding.

The shaft where it enters the firewall has a barrel like portion that appears to accept a shaft and there is a hole for what looks like a pin. This portion of the shaft doesnt budge when I push/pull. And it seems like a VERY small amount of metal meeting. But again, this looks nothing like the parts diagram and I cant tell if this is normal or if this is the failure point.

Does anyone know what this is supposed to look like on a 2012 Pathfinder silver 4WD?

The connection below this one (towards the rack) is also solid but there is some minor surface corrosion where it looks like there's room for in/out adjustment. From all I can tell this has always been in this position as there is no slop/play, and the corrosion is uniform across that flat surface

https://imgur.com/gallery/d07z36U

[VStar650CL]

In-out isn't what you're looking for, you're looking for loose clamps on the shafts or bad u-joints, anything that can make it jump out of position rotationally, not longitudinally. Loose splined-clamps will not be obvious from just jostling or pulling on them. The torque applied by the steering wheel is much higher than anything you can apply by hand.

[dmchan]

yep, I absolutely understand that. Everything *looks* like its fine except that one joint, if its even a joint.
Ive tried cranking the wheel hard left/right but nothing moves where it shouldnt. Im really not sure what to inspect/ look for beyond what I've done already.
Any ideas?
Also does that one union/joint/ shaft look as it is supposed to? I dont have anything to compare it to.

[VStar650CL]

It's been a very long time since I worked on an R51 steering shaft, but maybe this parts drawing can help clarify things:
https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-l ... m=488_A002

Don't know what year yours is, but my recollection is that the design is the similar across all the MY's. IIRC there's a u-joint inside 48080 in addition to the splined clamp at the bottom. 48070M is also splined and clamped onto the steering shaft. I don't think the cross-bolted portions of the shafts could cause that sort of issue, the bolts are either there or they aren't. If you find everything tight and nothing slipped, then I'd say it's likely your rack is worn out and the pinion jumped.

[dmchan]

yep, same diagram I was looking at. It really doesnt look like whats on the vehicle, specifically just south of 48827.
With the wheels straight the driver side rack has several gear teeth showing while the pass side is just smooth shaft (when I pull the boots back). Any idea if that is normal or if it confirms the rack jumped?

Im inclined to think I would have felt that when it happened and that there would be slop if it was worn enough to jump teeth no?

Im short on time these days so if I cant narrow it down I guess I'm left taking it to a dealer since I dont trust local shops to know this vehicle specifically.

[TooMuchControl]

the only other thing to consider is the steering wheel itself.

It seems silly, but did anyone ever take the wheel off for inspection? It's splined as well, but if that nut came loose, then the steering wheel itself could have jumped or became stripped.

1% likely hood, but, those steering wheel splines aren't deep.

the one thing we know, if you ever take the steering wheel off and try to put it back on, it's almost never lined up perfectly, and the SAS almost always needs a small adjustment. It's like a micro adjustment here and there, and the SAS goes off.

Parts of what you are experiencing makes me think that the problem could quite literally, be in front of you.

[dmchan]

The issue is not the wheel. I replace the clockspring after the VDS light / SAS code happened. The splines are correct before and after based on the lineup marks on the wheel mount and shaft.

[TooMuchControl]

ok. I was thinking the problem was there before the clockspring replacement, even if on the marks. I didn't read the thread to note that you replaced the CS.

damn.

[VStar650CL]

Well, the wheel can't jump ten degrees off center without something slipping splines or jumping a tooth. Theoretically it's possible for loose rack bushings or other front end parts to cause it, but that's quite a lot of misalignment. It would be very uncharacteristic for anything beyond the rack to be responsible.

[TooMuchControl]

LOL. Yep, I will get my head a shake on this one!