Turning the Pathfinder into a towing machine

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jdmacpherson41
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Turning the Pathfinder into a towing machine

Postby jdmacpherson41 » Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:20 pm

Hi, I have a 2012 S V6, barely driven and am now wanting to do everything possible to make it the best TV possible. Ive been reading a lot on this forum, some posts old, some new and wanted any advice experienced towers could give.

The Truck: 2012 Pathfinder S, 20K Miles. Air Lift 1000 installed.
The Trailer: 2017 Apex Nano 193 BHS, 4800 GVWR (try to keep it under 4K)

This is my plan

1. Install remote transmission cooler: https://www.etrailer.com/p-FLX45265.html

2. Install Bullydog Tuner

3. Get Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller

4. Get Andersen "no sway WDH"

5. Tow long across Canada/States and potential trips thru the Rockies.

6. Not Die or destroy my transmission.



After reading the forum, I feel pretty confident about the trans cooler, bullydog and P3. I'm a bit iffy about the Andersen WDH, there is a huge forum on the airstream forums addressing the pros and cons. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the R51 and the Andersen. The main issue being the actual Weight distribution of the hitch. I hear its good for lighter setups like mine, however with the notorious soft rear of the Pathy, I wonder if this would cause issues, despite the Airlift kit.

Any advice is appreciated, got the young family in the back, I want everything to be as safe and efficient as possible. Thanks in advance to anyone monitoring this forum and would care to weigh in. I'm I missing anything?


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eieio
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Postby eieio » Thu Jan 26, 2017 9:19 pm

you already have an external transmission cooler, as well as the internal transmission cooler inside your radiator
are you adding yet another external (remote) cooler (three coolers total?) :?

jdmacpherson41
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Postby jdmacpherson41 » Thu Jan 26, 2017 10:27 pm

So three Trans Coolers is overkill? Sorry for my ignorance, I thought there was only the 1 stock cooler. So with the two stock coolers, I should have no issues with Trans heat? Even with long steep grades? I know some people add fans to the cooler on the front, but others have questioned the effectiveness.

I only added it because it was suggested at E trailer from a queston I sent them. Overheating transmission is a concern of mine, what then would be the appropriate plan then?

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Postby Kestral » Fri Jan 27, 2017 12:08 am

I have a 2012 Pathy S V6 as well and I use it to tow my 5,000+ pound camper in the summer. I have towed many campers with different trucks for years. I find the R51 works great for towing.

I don't know much about that brand of hitch I use a Reese WD unit with a friction sway control its a heavy duty unit that I could use up to 12,000 pounds if I ever upgraded to a bigger truck and camper.

I found with the airbags you can make the back end stiff and no need to do much other then air them up.

As far as the trans cooler I really don't think you will need to upgrade anything what you have stock should be fine. I would not tow in overdrive unless on a real flat highway when the trans is not shifting between gears and take it easy on the hills drop into third gear and let the engine spin up you won't hurt the motor.

I know nothing about the Bullydog tuner

Run 5 or more pounds of tire pressure in each tire

It's a good idea to shorten your oil change to severe service interval when towing the VQ40DE V6 has a tendency to shear the heck out of motor oil esp when towing so run a sold oil and dump it out no longer then 4,000 miles.

If I think of some other things to know I will post.

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eieio
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Postby eieio » Fri Jan 27, 2017 8:37 am

jdmacpherson41 wrote:So three Trans Coolers is overkill? Sorry for my ignorance, I thought there was only the 1 stock cooler. So with the two stock coolers, I should have no issues with Trans heat? Even with long steep grades? I know some people add fans to the cooler on the front, but others have questioned the effectiveness.

I only added it because it was suggested at E trailer from a queston I sent them. Overheating transmission is a concern of mine, what then would be the appropriate plan then?
more than enough is sometimes too much
if a third cooler is to be added, I'd recommend not mounting it in front of or behind the main radiator, as it may restrict air flow through it
also, the additional mounts and plumbing for the third cooler can be a problem should they come loose, break, or leak
if it were mine, I'd stick with the OEM setup

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Fri Jan 27, 2017 3:12 pm

Don't bother with a third cooler. I ran for 4 years with just the air/oil cooler and never had an issue. Now that I've changed my radiator, I hooked the cooler in that unit back up and its just as good.

More important issue is braking. Make sure both the trailer, the brake controller, and the brakes in your pathy are in tip top shape.

Also, tires, what kind are you running? A blowout while towing would be on the top of my list of things I don't want to do in my lifetime.

Airlift 1000 - I didn't see this on your list. These are mandatory.

WDH - Never heard of Anderson. Almost anything should do here, but I'd stick with a bigger name for peace of mind.

t

jdmacpherson41
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Postby jdmacpherson41 » Fri Jan 27, 2017 8:45 pm

Thanks for the advice guys, a big no to the additional trans cooler. Very good points. I do want to keep an eye on the temp though so I understand the bullydog tuner does this as well.

As for tires, I still have on what I bought it with. P for sure, don't know the other numbers off hand. I was wondering if switching to LT tires would be any Benifit.

As for Braking, I agree the stopping probably more important that the towing. I was going to get a P3 brake controller. but not sure how much better the P3 is vs the P2. Just a digital display as far as I can tell.

I have installed the Airlift 1000. 100% the most agreed upon point in this forum.

I wanted to go with the Andersen Hitch because its lighter, quiet, easy to hook on and off. And people who have them give them glowing reviews, especially for lighter TT's. The only knock against them seem to be from negative reviews from people who haven't used them before but don't like the physics of them, they use chains instead of bars. So people who own them, like them. which is not shocking. People who own stuff are typically defensive of that stuff, see endowment effect.

I was hoping to get someone on here who has used them with a pathfinder. My second choice was a Reese Straigt line but I'm not crazy about the added hitch weight.

What engine oil to run while towing, synthetic I'm assuming?

Anyway thanks for the replies, it's January and I'm already getting too excited for summer, buying every stupid thing that I can think of, good to have second opinions. I really appreciate it.

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Postby Kestral » Sun Jan 29, 2017 7:18 pm

I don't think I would go to an LT rated tire I did that once on my Jeep and the ride was not good. You could run a higher load range tire for example my stock tires were 245/75/16 109S the 109 is the load and the S is the speed rating. I now run the same size but in a 111T rated tire so I went up to a higher speed rating T (Also means it can handle more heat) and with a higher load rating of 111.

As far as what motor oil to use I prefer to use a 10w30 synthetic over a 5w30 in summer towing a 10W30 has less viscosity improvers than a 5w30 and VI improvers have a tendency to break down fast. Just pick a name brand and you will be fine.

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:51 am

Agree on the LT tires. They add a bunch of extra unsprung weight, which can make the truck feel really sure footed, but decreases the overall ability to tow heavy loads.

Also you always have the quandary of how much to inflate them. I varied from 40psi to 80psi. (max allowed on mine). around 55psi seemed best, but meant a pretty harsh ride.

jdmacpherson41
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Postby jdmacpherson41 » Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:53 am

I'm still looking at which WDH I want. How does a WDH work with the Air bag system?

Ive looked around a bit and there are varying options on what order to do this. Some say pressure the bags up first then set up the WDH.

Others say Set up your WDH first THEN pressure the Air bags up.
Any thoughts?

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Postby Kestral » Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:36 am

As far as the WDH goes it works out fine with the airbags it comes down to finding the right balance. Set them at like 13 psi then hook up and see how level the camper is if it's level leave it alone then take it out for a ride and get a feel for it if the back end feels floaty or bouncy then add some air. Once you get the hang of it (finding the right balance) you will be fine. Some advice stay a pound or two under your max for the bags don't overfill them they can blowout! .. I have the Firestone bags and I think I run mine at around 15 psi and my max is 20 or 24 can't recall off hand but I found I don't nearly need to run them at max it is just to much.

What are you going to use for external mirrors on the Pathy? You will need some. Also make sure you have the correct tire pressure in your camper tires and if you have "EZ-Lube" axles put a few shots of grease in them and use the correct grease.

jdmacpherson41
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Postby jdmacpherson41 » Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:44 am

Oh I haven't even thought of the mirrors...will have to look into that, unless you have it sorted out, what do you use?

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Postby Kestral » Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:46 am

On your WD hitch if you have the bars on each side that you adjust the pressure on you don't want the have them extremely tight ... Tight yes but not crazy tight or you can run into problems so I say set your bags then drop the camper on the ball and see where it sits if level or slight sag forward then install your bars and it will make it level.

When you take it out for a ride you should have a real good front to rear balance in the truck it should not feel back heavy or front heavy and also not to lite in the front is not good either. It could take some work and adjustment but you will get the hang of it.

Remember your trans shifter is your friend steep hills 3rd gear around 55 mph and let the motor spin it's better to have high RPM in the motor then burn up the trans from lots of shifting.

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Postby Kestral » Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:49 am

jdmacpherson41 wrote:Oh I haven't even thought of the mirrors...will have to look into that, unless you have it sorted out, what do you use?
I use a real old set of mirrors that are big and not really needed but my father gave them to me and they work great so I use them. Camping World has some that connect to your existing mirrors that look good.

Silver Guagua
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Postby Silver Guagua » Mon Jan 30, 2017 5:10 pm

I towed a Mitsubishi Evo X from NJ to ID in the end of July, 2016. Total weight was over 6,000lbs. I have a Koyo radiator(which kept water/coolant temperatures below 50%), Air Lift 1000, Frozen Rotors, Hawk Pads, stainless steel brake lines, Bilstein dampeners all around, and Yokohama ATS 10 ply tires (265/75 16). I will not tow on passenger tires, it is an accident waiting to happen. But that is my opinion. I also maintain my vehicle with AMS OIL in the engine, transfer case, transmission, and differentials. All in all the Pathfinder held up. But in hindsight I would not tow more than 4000 pounds with the Pathfinder. It does not have the engine to pull up the long steep grades. Nor does it have the wheelbase for stability. Do not get me wrong, I love the Pathfinder. It just is not the best vehicle for towing heavy weight over long distances. Once again, just my opinion.


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