1997 Pathfinder SE

Attack of the unibody snatchers! Styling and handling refined or bland? You decide.

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LumpyHumper
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2017 4:55 pm
Location: Nebraska, USA

1997 Pathfinder SE

Postby LumpyHumper » Thu Mar 16, 2017 5:15 pm

Hi, I recently replaced my VG33E 3.3L and I can't quite get it to run correctly. I'm getting a p0300 but I'm sure the distributor and TPS settings are correct. My problem is in the "throttle system", I can rev the car normally while in park or neutral, but when in drive it doesn't recognize where the pedal is correctly. I can usually get up to around 20-25mph normally until the pedal "quits being recognized". What I mean by that is that it hits a certain point and then the vehicle quits responding to the pedal. I can continue to depress the pedal but my speed doesn't increase and the RPMs only slightly. I seem to be able to find a "sweet spot" sometimes by either depressing or letting off of the accelerator just slightly, and then the vehicle will continue to accelerate normally. Besides that, the only way I can accelerate reliably is to put it to the floor and then let off once I reach the desired speed. I have found two vacuum lines under the intake hoses that I can't find where they go, and I have an exhaust leak up near the driver side that sometimes makes a loud popping noise while accelerating. I'm hoping it isn't the manifold, but that's what I think it is because I couldn't feel or hear a leak at the converter. Also, I'm new to forums so sorry for the bad format etc.

To get to the Imgur album, put "/a/D6sJL" at the end of the url. What is circled or has arrows are the vacuum ports I am referring to.


LumpyHumper
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2017 4:55 pm
Location: Nebraska, USA

Postby LumpyHumper » Sat Mar 18, 2017 1:30 pm

I was able to use the vacuum diagram and fix that issue. Really no noticeable difference in the way it runs but it didn't hurt. I have made another Imgur album with more pictures and have since removed the last album. To get to this album just add "/a/1Hbh8" to the address bar. I have included pictures of my code reader, and the freeze frame from it. I have also included a picture of my distributor and TPS. The reason being is that I feel like the TPS shouldn't be completely clocked to one side, but I could be wrong. As is, it idles at around 1-1,500 RPMs or so I'd like to say. I feel like sometimes it changes though. In gear, it drops to around where it should be, 700-800 RPMs or so. If you think it would be helpful, I could try and record some footage of what it revs and idles like in park, and then how it revs and drives in gear.

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smj999smj
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Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:13 pm
Location: Prospect, VA

Postby smj999smj » Mon Mar 20, 2017 11:39 am

The TPS shouldn't be cocked all the way to one side (I didn't see the pics) and it is also the component that tell the ECM where the gas pedal is at, more or less. There is a specific procedure to adjusting the TPS using feeler gauges and an ohmmeter which needs to be done when the engine is warmed up. Then, the closed throttle position needs to be relearned. You may need to get a scan tool to look at the datastream from the TPS and be able to graph the signal and check for breaks, because it is sounding very much like a bad TPS issue.

LumpyHumper
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2017 4:55 pm
Location: Nebraska, USA

Postby LumpyHumper » Tue Mar 21, 2017 5:31 pm

I didn't figure that the TPS should be all the way to one side, but that's currently the only option. If I even adjust it slightly, the engine will rev to about 3000 RPMs or higher. Having it all the way to the one side will keep it about 1500 RPMs.


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