Help - conflicting diagnosis - engine ruined by diesel

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se7en
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Postby se7en » Thu Nov 02, 2017 1:33 pm

Just called a local place. C$2K for engine from 2010 with 106K Kilometers (~60K Miles) with C$1K install.

Now I just have to buy the cats and sensors.

help please... the amazon is so confusing.... A good diagram would help. But every manufacturer has their own diagram....

Also, SMJ, how certain are you that I need to replace the rear ones? Meaning If I dont can the bad rear ones ruin the engine? I know the front ones can.


elementZ
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Postby elementZ » Thu Nov 02, 2017 6:45 pm

give rockauto a shot, and cross reference the parts with amazon?

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Thu Nov 02, 2017 10:03 pm

se7en wrote:Just called a local place. C$2K for engine from 2010 with 106K Kilometers (~60K Miles) with C$1K install.

Now I just have to buy the cats and sensors.

help please... the amazon is so confusing.... A good diagram would help. But every manufacturer has their own diagram....

Also, SMJ, how certain are you that I need to replace the rear ones? Meaning If I dont can the bad rear ones ruin the engine? I know the front ones can.
I'm not certain at all, but would be concerned about them after diesel and then oil have been passing through them for along time. I was just saying what "I" would do if it were mine; what you do is totally up to you. That said, you could leave them and later do an exhaust back pressure test to test for excessive restriction in the exhaust. If there is, then it's a pretty good chance that it's the rear converters. Hopefully, they'll be okay. The front converters do, in a way, act like a filter of sorts for the rear converters. But, as you already mentioned, when revving the engine, there was substantial smoke coming out of the exhaust, which would mean there has been a reasonable amount of oil that has been passing through the rear converters.

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Thu Nov 02, 2017 10:22 pm

se7en wrote:SMJ - wow lots to think about. Not really - I just have to spend the $$$$. Thank you for your great help!

I think I will do exactly what you say:
new front cats, new sensor, rear pipes
And new spark plugs with new ignition coils that just arrived today.

Not sure what you mean by headers here: "It would also be a good time to install headers, as the heat shield bolts on the factory manifolds are probably going to break, anyway".

There is a place here in Vancouver Canada that specializes in engine replacements. Should I buy the engine myself or leave it to them? I will definitelly buy the cats pipes etc. Amazon seems to have good prices. What is a good site for engines this or is google my best bet?
If you have the shop supply the engine, it will likely cost more for the part, but they should offer a warranty that covers both the labor and the part for a given amount of time. If you supply the engine, the engine will likely be cheaper, but the shop won't warranty the labor if your part turns out to be defective. Meaning, if you pay the shop to put the engine YOU supplied in your vehicle and it turns out after putting it in that there is something wrong with the engine (a bearing knock, for example), it will be up to you to find another ending AND they will charge you for the second engine installation, as well, and any subsequent engine replacement. Now, lets say the shop provides the engine and upon installing the engine, it starts knocking; it will be the shop's responsibility to find another engine and they will have to eat the labor for the replacing the engine a second time.

Being in Canada, I'm not sure what the cheapest place is for you to purchase parts. I know Rockauto.com does ship to Canada and some Canadians do use it.

These are headers:

http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/2005- ... ders_15761

These are the mid-pipes I was talking about:

http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/2005- ... ipes_15714

Do you need either one of them? No. But if you were looking to add some performance to your truck's exhaust, now would be a good time to do it because headers are a lot easier to install with the engine out of the engine bay.

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se7en
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Postby se7en » Tue Nov 07, 2017 12:56 pm

SMJ - you ever in Vancouver - lunch is on me!

The headers can be pricey... Anything against these fancy chrome cheap ones?

https://www.amazon.com/DNA-Motoring-HDS ... dpSrc=srch

The exaust manifold (guessing its another term for the headers) look covered up and weird... A bit cheaper though...

I like the quality and all... but money is really tight... just bought a farm!

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Wed Nov 08, 2017 10:34 pm

You don't have to install headers; it's really your call. It's just a good time to do it if you have interest in it. If the factory exhaust manifolds aren't cracked and leaking, they'll work just fine! If you do choose to go with headers, then the best practice is to spend a little more and get a good set so you won't have to deal with leaks caused by broken welds later on. I don't have any experience with DNA-motoring headers, so I can't tell you whether they are any good or not. Performance parts are almost always "you get what you pay for," so be wary of anything that is low cost. Doug Thorley has a great reputation and makes a great product, so the extra bucks you spend is generally worth it and they stand behind their product.

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se7en
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Postby se7en » Mon Nov 20, 2017 5:11 pm

So I am now looking more in-depth at the exhaust system.
This is from the 2009 Pathfinder Service Manual for V6 engine. But where are the cats???

SMJ, I think 9 and 5 in the pic below are the "mid tubes that you are talking about? They are not the cats, correct?
Image

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se7en
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Postby se7en » Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:16 pm

I really do not want the mechanic to buy these... so I am getting them myself - cheaper! These are the parts I confirmed on Walker website.
The only thing I may be missing is the gaskets - amazon does not say if they are included. Perhaps some bolts also...

SMJ - I think it was you who said that the first two guys on my list below could be just straight pipes? Forget the emissions control - technically the car should still run becuse the o2 sensors are ahead of the converters?

Image

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Mon Nov 20, 2017 8:12 pm

Parts #5 and #9 on your diagram, which are the same as Walker #'s 16399 & 16400, are the rear catalytic converters. Doug Thorley mid-pipes, which some would refer to as "test pipes" because the eliminate the converters, would fit in the same location and have a bung installed for the rear oxygen sensors.
The front converters are not shown on your diagram, but they would be the equivalent of Walker #'s 16467 & 16468. You will need to but the gaskets and, if I remember correctly, some 10MM hardware (bolts, nuts, washers) for the converter. I just picked up what I needed in the Lowe's hardware bins.


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