ABS SLIP VDC Light

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disallow
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ABS SLIP VDC Light

Postby disallow » Fri Sep 22, 2017 9:07 pm

Over the past few years, there have been a few occasions when my ABS, SLIP, and VDC lights have come on. But they've always gone out on their own, and stayed off. Usually this happened when it was really wet or slushy out. I've never done any diagnosis or disassembly to figure it out, as it always seemed to go away.

In the last few weeks, the lights have started coming on and not going out. I don't have an ABS code reader. Is there a way to read these codes without a reader? Or with my ELM327 OBDII reader and Torque app?

Was thinking about pulling the sensors out in the rear to see if they are dirty or if the wires are worn out. I've also read that the steering angle sensor can go bad. Are there any other symptoms that would point to that failure mode?

Thoughts?


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Postby smj999smj » Fri Sep 22, 2017 11:43 pm

A faulty cam position sensor or crank position sensor can do the same thing and not necessarily trigger cam/crank position sensor code(s). When the ECM detects and engine management problem, it will disable the traction control system and illuminate those warning lights. I don't know any other way to get ABS codes other than with a capable scan tool. I'm not familiar with the capabilities of the ELM327.

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Postby disallow » Sat Sep 23, 2017 6:50 am

Interesting thought. I have had P0420 and P0430 codes along with P0455 and P1455 codes for some time now.

I also replace the crank position sensor about 2 years ago. Was not an OEM sensor as nobody local had one. Have never done the cam sensor.

What kind of symptoms would I be looking for, absent the OBDII SES codes? I recall that with the crank sensor, the engine would die every so often for 1 or 2 seconds and then be fine.

Any reasonably priced and compatible ABS code readers out there?

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Postby disallow » Wed Sep 27, 2017 5:43 am

Soooooo I bought an abs capable code reader. $129 for an Innova 3100j. Its pretty slick.

Codes pulled:

C1109 - VEHICLE VOLTAGE ABNORMAL
C1106 - LEFT REAR SENSOR

so I figured I'd also use the code reader functionality that does an alternator test. The voltage varies from 13 to 15 volts. Alternator does not pass test.

Fortunately, I have an alternator sitting on my shelf. Due to an injury to my hand, I can't do the work myself, but I have a local trusty old mechanic that can help.

So I figure fix the voltage issue and then see if that take a care of the other code.
Last edited by disallow on Wed Sep 27, 2017 8:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby disallow » Wed Sep 27, 2017 8:13 pm

Got the pathy back from my mechanic. Total bill to do the following:

Install lower balljoints
Install Alternator
Clean throttle body
Clean ABS Speed sensor rings on rear

came to just under $600.

So not super cheap, but worth it. I can't do much with my finger the way it is.

Had to do the idle relearn when I got home as the P0507 code was showing and the idle was way too high. This was due to him cleaning the throttle body.

The Alternator test on the code reader I bought now passes, and so far, the ABS/SLIP/VDC lights haven't come back after about 100km of driving.

He mentioned the rings were really dirty!

t

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Postby disallow » Sun Oct 15, 2017 3:50 pm

Continuing with this thread, I had some body work done on the pathy to get rid if the rust in the rear wheel wells and the tailgate. It looks great! Will post pics in another thread.

After getting it back, I noticed that the ABS/SLIP/VDC light was back on. My trusty old mechanic had discovered to tone ring was very dirty, and he cleaned it. This seemed to work, and lined up with the code I was getting, C1106.

However, upon further inspection, there does appear to be some damage on the wire harness itself. See attached pic. I have a feeling that this hole in the insulation allows moisture in, and causes a short which throws a code.

Here's what it does. You start driving, and the ABS/SLIP/VDC lights usually turn off within about 50 feet. Usually you can then drive for quite some time. However, if on the highway at cruising speed, and you set the cruise, you will be able to detect some 'bumping' or jerking. This causes the cruise to turn off. And usually, the ABS/SLIP/VDC light turns on shortly thereafter. You can even see the slip light flicker every so often.

There have been a few times this didn't happen, or the lights didn't turn off, or the lights turned back on right aways. Hence the frequent use of the word 'usually'. Probably common is sorting out these stupid electrical gremlins.

In any case, I see 2 possibilities:

1. Since I can see a hole in the insulation, cut the insulation there, repair the short with electrical tape/shrink and then seal with silicone and see if that does the trick? I seem to recall though, that ABS harnesses don't work well after splicing, so I'd have to avoid cutting it. Thoughts?

2. Replace rear ABS harness. Nissan sells it on the Courtesy website PN 47900-5X01A ABS Sensor Wire for close to $300. I see there are aftermarket harnesses available for around $50 less than this.

The truck is getting up in years/miles, but now after fixing the body, it would be a waste to not have a functioning ABS/VDC system, as I find this one of the best features of this truck.

Pic 1 - Picture of both tone rings and sensors

Image

Pic 2 - Picture of the sensor position and condition
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Pic 3 - Picture of the harness with the damage highlighted

Image


https://photos.app.goo.gl/OoKXF13MiT0sLeiq1

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Postby disallow » Tue Oct 24, 2017 8:48 pm

Hey everyone,

Thought I would close out this thread. I finally fixed the ABS/VDC/SLIP issue. The problem was my rear ABS sensor harness.

I got a code reader to show me the code for the ABS Fault. It came up with C1106, every time. Sometimes some other codes would show up, but if I cleared them, they would not return.

I had an issue where I would start the truck and let it sit in my yard, and yet my speedo would move, and my odometer would count. I found this to be interesting, and as SMJ shared, the R51 actually gets its speedo data from the ABS wheel sensors. Once I got this piece of information, I was confident enough to order the part. This harness is available from Courtesy Nissan for $289 plus shipping, or $220 from Rockauto.

I ended up buying from Partsouq.com, which is a company that actually ships out of Dubai. I know a few people that have ordered from them, and its legit. So from Partsouq, the price for a Nissan factory OEM part was $150USD plus $11 shipping. I also had to pay Taxes and Brokerage when it arrived, for $47 CAD. So all told, I am at about $250CAD for the part. Locally, it was over $350 CAD. Not sure why these harnesses are so expensive, there is really not much to them.

Anyways, installation was a breeze, and now I get no ABS light. And the speedo doesn't jump anymore. YAY

Now to fix my O2 sensors/catalytic converter codes. And the Vent Control Valve. Then the truck will be like new! lol.


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