Pathfinder V6 Spark Plug DIY guide

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Sat Jan 11, 2014 3:02 pm

excalibur23 wrote:I also just changed the plugs in my dad's 06, with no plugs. But now she idles real rough. Anyone have any clues to why? I know I didn't touch the throttle body.. and on top of that coil 3, screw broke. Sorry if I shouldn't have posted here.
Assuming the ground electrode of one of the spark plugs didn't get bent in when installing it, you might want to do an idle air volume relearn, especially if the battery cable was disconnected.


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RCAPathfinder
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Postby RCAPathfinder » Fri Mar 21, 2014 7:09 pm

Good info thanks

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Postby Find_The_Path » Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:54 am

Replaced mine last night. Disconnected the intake plenum but did not re-locate. Was able to move it enough to get it out of my way while working on the plugs. I did, however, stupidly remove the coolant line to the throttle body on accident. Sprayed a little coolant into it, howver, was able to quickly close it off, and no issues after driving this morning.
Thought it may help with rough idle at stop light with AC on, but didn't seem to do the trick. Idles at 675 RPM, goes down with rough idle and jumps back up.
Replaced DILFR5A-11 (assuming stock) with
PLFR5A-11
95,000 miles on an 08 V6 4x4
Image

Thanks for the write up, extremely helpful!

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Postby RCAPathfinder » Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:01 am

If you get a low rough idle at a stop light you need to clean the throttle body. It worked for me. If you have a rough idle after changing plugs, them try this. Disconnect the battery for 45 min to reset the computer. Let me know if this works fit you.
Last edited by RCAPathfinder on Wed Sep 30, 2015 5:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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2010 Pathfinder spark plugs

Postby [email protected] » Sat Sep 26, 2015 2:06 pm

I just changed my plugs. I did not unhook any electrical cables nor any coolant lines. This avoids problems with coolant bleeding and relearning any throttle body or accelerator positioning. I did free the air plenum and simply lifted it about three inches which gave me plenty of room to work the plugs underneath it. One vacuum line was all I had to unhook. It takes a little patience and the right length socket extensions (and a swivel socket adaptor helps on one or two of the plugs) but it's a much simpler way to go I think.

My dealer quoted $575 to do the plugs. Cost me about $40 and three hours (that included a break to run to Sears for some additional socket extensions to get the right length).

cjj2d
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Postby cjj2d » Wed Nov 25, 2015 8:46 pm

Where can I find the "Idle relearn" info???

I did my plugs today following this writeup (which is great!!!) however I found that I also had a leaking Valve Cover gasket, so also did that. Only did the passenger side one as was running out of time, and after looking at the driver side one, I didnt have time to fight with the back bolts. It isnt leaking, but will swap it out later on.

My question is this though: I did clean the TB and MAF. Now I am having rough idle at park/stop and it will even cut off. I also now have lost my breaks. When you press the break pedal it feels hard as all hell and doesnt move much, or completely stop the vehicle. yikes!!!!

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!!

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Postby RCAPathfinder » Wed Nov 25, 2015 11:26 pm

Try disconnecting the battery for 45 minutes to reset the computer.

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Thu Nov 26, 2015 10:49 am

Disconnecting the battery doesn't relearn the idle air volume; if anything, it'll erase it and possibly the steering position sensor memory, as well. Here is the procedure for the idle air volume relearn:

http://nissanhelp.com/diy/pathfinder/pr ... arning.php

cjj2d
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Postby cjj2d » Thu Nov 26, 2015 7:06 pm

well, it turns out it was all from the brake booster hose not connected on back of intake. oops.

after hooking it back up, all is good! drives GREAT!

thanks for the help!

sandman7445
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Postby sandman7445 » Thu Dec 10, 2015 5:40 pm

Any one ever had trouble with the intake manifold collector being stuck? I've removed five bolts and two nuts and the thing will not budge. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

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Postby cjj2d » Thu Dec 10, 2015 8:43 pm

I ran in to this as well, I think you missed the one in the very back towards the windsheild middle.

sandman7445
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Postby sandman7445 » Thu Dec 10, 2015 11:19 pm

I actually completely overlooked a bracket that supports the throttle body. I'm glad I found it!

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Postby irikumi » Fri Jan 01, 2016 4:51 pm

Just did the plugs on mine a couple days ago. I have an 08 V6 Off-road model, bought it with 122K, replaced with 129K on the clock. They look like original plugs, the DILFR5A-11 were in it. Checked the gap on old ones out of curiosity and they gapped still at .44 (1.1mm), which surprised me considering the miles. I am not certain they are original, but judging from the overall appearance they look original. These Iridium and Platinum plugs have amazing durability.

Iridium if I recall from chemistry is a platinum group metal, in other words is related to Platinum. I dropped in the PLFR5A-11 that I got from NAPA for $11 each, seemed reasonable price to get them right away in store compared to online with shipping. I agree with what many have noted, get the best OEM plugs that last 100k plus miles since it's a pain to get plugs out on passenger side.

The truck ran great before replacing, and runs great after. I changed them primarily because after buying this truck from the dealer I assume the plugs to be original. Also replaced the rear O2 sensors as they likely are original for good maintenance sake and also all the fluids.

This truck had both front Cats replaced by dealer and the A/F sensors before I bought it, with 122k on they may have been clogged Cats. Great little 4x4 to go alongside my Titan, needed a 7 seater... hell no to mini vans!

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Sat Jan 02, 2016 5:39 am

FYI, the rear O2 sensors have no affect on engine performance nor operation; they are only there for monitoring purposes so the ECM can test the catalytic converter efficiency.

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Postby BCpathy » Sun Jan 24, 2016 8:13 am

Thanks for the great write up. Just changed the plugs yesterday and, thanks to all the knowledge gathered here, it turned out to be very simple.
I bought the truck right around 100.000 miles this past summer, and am now done with my 105k service at 106k on the clock, with the plugs having been the last part of the service.

It took me about half an hour to do the driver side. Was a little nervous about taking off the intake for the passenger side plugs at first. Worried that I might get rough idle afterwards. But after trying to disconnect the wires from the coils, without the intake having been taken off, I decided that it was going to be too painfull for large hands. So I followed the instructions in the DIY guide and took everything off. I had a buddy come over to help me. It was a lot simpler that way. He held the intake to the side, while I changed plugs. We made sure not to touch the throttle body at all. I also decided to leave the battery connected.
It took about 10 minutes to do the 3 plugs. Altogether, within less than 3 hours from starting with the drivers side, all was done, everything put back together, and we had test driven her to make sure, all was in order. Those 3 hours even included a brake to head down to the liquor store to get some beers for us.


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