You need to remove the dust cover on the withdrawal lever hole from the trans case. Pull out the snap pin on the withdrawal shaft, and then pull out the withdrawal shaft to remove withdrawal lever and release bearing. If you don't remove the withdrawal lever and release bearing, you will not be able to separate the trans from the engine, or, at least not without damage. There is also some RTV sealant between the bellhouse and engine, so it may take a little "persuation" to break it loose. When installing, you may need to find a way to tilt the engine back to get it at the right angle. I know you have to do this on the VG engine, but I'm not 100% sure on the VQ.
You can download the MT section of the 01 Pathy service manual here; just click on the picture of the table of contents in the upper left corner:
https://carmanuals2.com/get/nissan-path ... n-mt-49186
2001 Pathy - OEM Clutch?
Moderator: volvite
-
Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
Awesome - Thank you!
I'm going to Sears later to pick up a 20-inch socket extension. Hoping that will get me to that last top bolt.
I did wind up buying a transmission jack from Northern Tool. The borrowed motorcycle jack won't go up high enough, so no dice with that. It will tilt as well, so hopefully that will help when it's time to put everything back together.
Pretty sure I'll have more questions as I get deeper into this slice of heaven of a project, so please keep checking this forum
Thank you!
I'm going to Sears later to pick up a 20-inch socket extension. Hoping that will get me to that last top bolt.
I did wind up buying a transmission jack from Northern Tool. The borrowed motorcycle jack won't go up high enough, so no dice with that. It will tilt as well, so hopefully that will help when it's time to put everything back together.
Pretty sure I'll have more questions as I get deeper into this slice of heaven of a project, so please keep checking this forum
Thank you!
-
Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
I finally got that top bolt out today.
The clutch withdrawal lever, though...
I was able to get the pin pulled out, but I can't see any way that lever is going to come out of the hole where the dust cover went. Maybe I just haven't turned it the right way, but it seems to be way too big to come out through that hole.
After about 15 minutes of fiddling with that lever, I put the jack under the tranny, took the rest of the bottom bolts off and just gently wiggled things around a bit. It doesn't "act" like there's any sealant between the tranny and engine (maybe that's only in 4WD trannys?), but it also didn't come right off - so I didn't force anything.
Are you 100% sure that withdrawal lever and release bearing have to be removed before I separate the transmission from the engine? I'm trying to imagine putting those pieces back together through that hole later on, and it seems like that's going to be nearly impossible.
On a side note, have you guys had issues with the Nissan flexible clutch hydraulic line that goes to the slave cylinder? I replaced one because the insulation seemed to have trapped condensation and rotted/rusted. The replacement that's on there now is about in the same shape. I ordered a Centric aftermarket piece from Rock Auto today. Hoping that will be a good fit and last longer.
Thanks again for all your help, guys!
The clutch withdrawal lever, though...
I was able to get the pin pulled out, but I can't see any way that lever is going to come out of the hole where the dust cover went. Maybe I just haven't turned it the right way, but it seems to be way too big to come out through that hole.
After about 15 minutes of fiddling with that lever, I put the jack under the tranny, took the rest of the bottom bolts off and just gently wiggled things around a bit. It doesn't "act" like there's any sealant between the tranny and engine (maybe that's only in 4WD trannys?), but it also didn't come right off - so I didn't force anything.
Are you 100% sure that withdrawal lever and release bearing have to be removed before I separate the transmission from the engine? I'm trying to imagine putting those pieces back together through that hole later on, and it seems like that's going to be nearly impossible.
On a side note, have you guys had issues with the Nissan flexible clutch hydraulic line that goes to the slave cylinder? I replaced one because the insulation seemed to have trapped condensation and rotted/rusted. The replacement that's on there now is about in the same shape. I ordered a Centric aftermarket piece from Rock Auto today. Hoping that will be a good fit and last longer.
Thanks again for all your help, guys!
You didn't mention earlier that it was 2WD, so, you won't have any sealant. The withdrawal lever information was quoted from the factory service manual, which I provided a link for you to download the manual transmission chapter. It'll give you R&I instructions:
https://carmanuals2.com/get/nissan-path ... n-mt-49186
https://carmanuals2.com/get/nissan-path ... n-mt-49186
-
Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
OK cool - 1 less step on re-assembly (no sealant)!
Yep - I'm with you on the manual. Pages 10-11 in that section, step 8a - no problem. Step 8b, not so much. I got the pin out, but i can't figure out a way to get that withdrawal lever to come out.
It also looks like step 1 of the Installation part (page 12 in that section on the PDF I'm looking at), suggests that the withdrawal shaft, snap pin, withdrawal lever and release bearing are all set in place before the tranny gets re-installed.
Sorry - I'm definitely not trying to be argumentative, just confused. Do you have any tips on getting that withdrawal lever out through that hole?
Thank you!
Yep - I'm with you on the manual. Pages 10-11 in that section, step 8a - no problem. Step 8b, not so much. I got the pin out, but i can't figure out a way to get that withdrawal lever to come out.
It also looks like step 1 of the Installation part (page 12 in that section on the PDF I'm looking at), suggests that the withdrawal shaft, snap pin, withdrawal lever and release bearing are all set in place before the tranny gets re-installed.
Sorry - I'm definitely not trying to be argumentative, just confused. Do you have any tips on getting that withdrawal lever out through that hole?
Thank you!
All the R50s I did had the VG engine. I do remember another tech having to do one with the VQ and him having trouble getting it out until he found out that he had to remove the withdrawal lever. You might just have to disconnect it from the release bearing and not have to remove it from the bellhousing. If you read the manual, it sounds like you have to remove the release bearing before the trans, but I can see any way of doing that since it's around the shaft? IIRC, the release bearing snaps into the pressure plate. You might try checking YouTube. If you can't find any VQ Pathfinder clutch vids, maybe VQ Frontier might turn up better results.
-
Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
A new day brings a new sticking point.
There was an engine-to-tranny bolt that I didn't see until I took the starter all the way off. Once I pulled that bolt, the transmission began to easily come away from the engine. But not all the way.
I have wrestled with this thing, raising and lowering the jack, pulling and prying the transmission, over and over most of the day today. It's probably about 6 inches out from the engine. I can see the clutch cover, flywheel, release bearing (I think) and input shaft - but I can't get it backed out enough to drop it.
The edges of the upper part of the bellhousing get hung up on the undercarriage. I've tried lowering the jack a bit, hoping the tilt would be enough to get more room - but no dice. I can't tell how much of the input shaft still needs to come out. It sure looks close, but that bellhousing is literally jammed up against the bottom of the truck, so there's nowhere to go.
Do I need to lower the engine too, so that I'll have a bit of clearance? If so, is there a safe and relatively easy way to do that in a garage without professional mechanic's tools?
I took some pics, but am not sure where I could house them and link them to this site.
It sure is nice when projects like this go well. I guess?
Any ideas are very much appreciated. Thanks guys!
There was an engine-to-tranny bolt that I didn't see until I took the starter all the way off. Once I pulled that bolt, the transmission began to easily come away from the engine. But not all the way.
I have wrestled with this thing, raising and lowering the jack, pulling and prying the transmission, over and over most of the day today. It's probably about 6 inches out from the engine. I can see the clutch cover, flywheel, release bearing (I think) and input shaft - but I can't get it backed out enough to drop it.
The edges of the upper part of the bellhousing get hung up on the undercarriage. I've tried lowering the jack a bit, hoping the tilt would be enough to get more room - but no dice. I can't tell how much of the input shaft still needs to come out. It sure looks close, but that bellhousing is literally jammed up against the bottom of the truck, so there's nowhere to go.
Do I need to lower the engine too, so that I'll have a bit of clearance? If so, is there a safe and relatively easy way to do that in a garage without professional mechanic's tools?
I took some pics, but am not sure where I could house them and link them to this site.
It sure is nice when projects like this go well. I guess?
Any ideas are very much appreciated. Thanks guys!
-
Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
Do you guys know if it's safe to lower the engine a little to give me room to have the bellhousing clear the underside of the truck?
I think there's enough room underneath. Not sure exactly how high up it's jacked, but a couple of feet for sure.
Is it safe to support the engine with a jack and block of wood under the oil pan? If so, could I then disconnect the engine mounts and lower the engine a couple of inches using the jack?
I think there's enough room underneath. Not sure exactly how high up it's jacked, but a couple of feet for sure.
Is it safe to support the engine with a jack and block of wood under the oil pan? If so, could I then disconnect the engine mounts and lower the engine a couple of inches using the jack?
-
Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
OK - finally got the transmission out! I jacked the whole truck up a couple more inches and played several rounds of jockey the transmission / pry with a prybar.
Now that it's out, I'll look at getting the flywheel resurfaced and start replacing clutch bits.
It's not leaking oil, but this seems like an opportune time to replace the rear main seal. However, looking at the service manual, that job looks kind of daunting. Pulling the oil pan alone looks really involved (35 steps).
Would it be stupid for me not to replace the rear main seal?
Now that it's out, I'll look at getting the flywheel resurfaced and start replacing clutch bits.
It's not leaking oil, but this seems like an opportune time to replace the rear main seal. However, looking at the service manual, that job looks kind of daunting. Pulling the oil pan alone looks really involved (35 steps).
Would it be stupid for me not to replace the rear main seal?
You can do it without dropping the pan on a VQ, put it's tricky and a bit of a pain in the tail. VQ rear main seals don't seem to have as much leaking issues as the VG motors and I think a lot of the VG rear main seals leaks are actually mis-diagnosed; the rear oil pan lip seal is as often the cause of an oil leak at the back of the engine than the rear main. If there is no signs at all of oil leakage, I think I would call it a day and leave it alone.
As far as the flywheel, I usually just scuff them up with a die-grinder with a Scotch disc attached or some light sandpaper. If there are cracks in it, then replace the flywheel. A clutch is designed so that the pressure plate takes most of the damage when it gets low on the lining.
As far as the flywheel, I usually just scuff them up with a die-grinder with a Scotch disc attached or some light sandpaper. If there are cracks in it, then replace the flywheel. A clutch is designed so that the pressure plate takes most of the damage when it gets low on the lining.
-
Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
The flywheel is out and resurfaced. A local clutch shop only charged $30, so I thought it was worth it.
I rented a puller from O'Reilly to get the pilot bearing out, but it's just barely too big to fit through the bearing. Will try the one at AutoZone this evening.
The area around the rear main seal has just a little bit of grease/oil/grime (not sure if it's one or all of those). The bottom of the seal shows the most, but nothing's actively dripping out or anything.
Between the interwebs, the FSM and the Haynes manual, I'm seeing a lot of varying information on how to change that seal. It sure looks like all I should have to do is unbolt the seal retainer, but maybe the bottom half is tucked into the oil pan?
Is lowering the oil pan just a matter of loosening/removing the bolts around the perimeter (not sure how many - maybe 12-15)? Is there sealant between the mating surfaces? Will I need to pry the pan apart, or should it easily drop down once the bolts are loose?
On a side note, I couldn't find any grease fittings on either of the driveshafts themselves or on the u-joints. Is that normal, or am I just not looking hard enough?
I rented a puller from O'Reilly to get the pilot bearing out, but it's just barely too big to fit through the bearing. Will try the one at AutoZone this evening.
The area around the rear main seal has just a little bit of grease/oil/grime (not sure if it's one or all of those). The bottom of the seal shows the most, but nothing's actively dripping out or anything.
Between the interwebs, the FSM and the Haynes manual, I'm seeing a lot of varying information on how to change that seal. It sure looks like all I should have to do is unbolt the seal retainer, but maybe the bottom half is tucked into the oil pan?
Is lowering the oil pan just a matter of loosening/removing the bolts around the perimeter (not sure how many - maybe 12-15)? Is there sealant between the mating surfaces? Will I need to pry the pan apart, or should it easily drop down once the bolts are loose?
On a side note, I couldn't find any grease fittings on either of the driveshafts themselves or on the u-joints. Is that normal, or am I just not looking hard enough?
-
Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
With the help of a 4-in-1 painters tool and a hammer, I was able to get the upper oil pan separated from the engine. I removed the drivebelts, brackets, etc. from the front side and everything else around the pan. I am now able to get the rear main seal off, so that's at least a small victory.
Unfortunately, it looks like the brace (is that what it is?) that's around the steering bits will have to come off before I'll be able to lower that pan enough to get it out. Looking at the bolts involved, they all look really big and like they may be helping hold the engine in place.
I've read through the FSM about the oil pan dropping, but a lot of the steps seem to assume that they are being read by an actual mechanic
Do you know if I'm still on the right track? Do you know of a good write-up on how to get that bracing taken off safely?
Unfortunately, it looks like the brace (is that what it is?) that's around the steering bits will have to come off before I'll be able to lower that pan enough to get it out. Looking at the bolts involved, they all look really big and like they may be helping hold the engine in place.
I've read through the FSM about the oil pan dropping, but a lot of the steps seem to assume that they are being read by an actual mechanic
Do you know if I'm still on the right track? Do you know of a good write-up on how to get that bracing taken off safely?
-
Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
So... got everything put back together this past weekend. New clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, resurfaced flywheel, replaced rear main oil seal, new RTV around upper oil pan along with new half-moon seals (lip seals?). New MT and diff fluids, fresh motor oil and filter, new flex line to clutch slave cylinder, rotated tires.
The first day I drove it, it shifted like butter. I didn't hear anything grinding, and saw nothing leaking anywhere.
Day 2, it seems like it doesn't want to shift into 1st gear from a stop. I drive around a bit more and check underneath again when I get home. Now there's definitely something on the bottom of the transmission. I think it's MT fluid. It's leaking out of the bottom where the bellhousing bolts to the engine, as well as out of the boot surrounding the clutch fork. Probably 1/4 cup or so total.
There were no signs of previous fluid leakage when I was removing the tranny.
Any ideas? Did I bugger up an input shaft seal when I was wrestling the transmission away from the engine?
Am I definitely going to have to pull the tranny back off?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
The first day I drove it, it shifted like butter. I didn't hear anything grinding, and saw nothing leaking anywhere.
Day 2, it seems like it doesn't want to shift into 1st gear from a stop. I drive around a bit more and check underneath again when I get home. Now there's definitely something on the bottom of the transmission. I think it's MT fluid. It's leaking out of the bottom where the bellhousing bolts to the engine, as well as out of the boot surrounding the clutch fork. Probably 1/4 cup or so total.
There were no signs of previous fluid leakage when I was removing the tranny.
Any ideas? Did I bugger up an input shaft seal when I was wrestling the transmission away from the engine?
Am I definitely going to have to pull the tranny back off?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Find Your Forum!