2001 Pathy - OEM Clutch?
Moderator: volvite
Are you low on clutch fluid? If so, that would explain the hard shift and would mean that the leak is probably clutch fluid from the bellhousing. That would mean the clutch slave or the line is leaking. The other possibility is that it is gear oil leaking, possible from the input shaft seal, AND, you have air in the hydraulic clutch system that needs to be bled.
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Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
The clutch fluid seems to have remained constant. I bled it and adjusted the pedal engagement right after putting everything back together and before the first drive. I'm not going to swear that it's bled perfectly, though.
This evening, I put the truck up on jack stands and wiped off every bit of fluid I could find. I checked the tranny fluid level and had to add just under 1 quart. I had initially filled the tranny through the shifter hole with 3 quarts. Wishing I hadn't used Amsoil now, since it's probably all going to get recycled.
While on the stands, I started it and "drove" it around - shifting through the gears, running at constant speeds for a bit, slowing, accelerating, stopping, reversing, stopping, shifting into 1st - you get the idea. I did that for around 20 minutes.
Got back under the truck and it's forming slow drips at the low point where the bellhousing bolts to the engine.
It definitely seems like it's the transmission that's leaking. If that's the deal, am I in for a re-build, or is it possible to just replace one (or however many) seal? If a rebuild is needed, any idea on what that should cost and if it's something I should even consider doing myself?
It sucks to have done all that and have this happening, but if I'm going to have to pull the tranny off - at least the procedure is fairly fresh in my mind.
Thank you!
This evening, I put the truck up on jack stands and wiped off every bit of fluid I could find. I checked the tranny fluid level and had to add just under 1 quart. I had initially filled the tranny through the shifter hole with 3 quarts. Wishing I hadn't used Amsoil now, since it's probably all going to get recycled.
While on the stands, I started it and "drove" it around - shifting through the gears, running at constant speeds for a bit, slowing, accelerating, stopping, reversing, stopping, shifting into 1st - you get the idea. I did that for around 20 minutes.
Got back under the truck and it's forming slow drips at the low point where the bellhousing bolts to the engine.
It definitely seems like it's the transmission that's leaking. If that's the deal, am I in for a re-build, or is it possible to just replace one (or however many) seal? If a rebuild is needed, any idea on what that should cost and if it's something I should even consider doing myself?
It sucks to have done all that and have this happening, but if I'm going to have to pull the tranny off - at least the procedure is fairly fresh in my mind.
Thank you!
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andrewtexas123
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2016 2:26 pm
A transmission with low miles like yours shouldn't need a complete overhaul unless it has been abused or something internally failed preventing you from shifting, poping out of gear, abnormal noises, ect.
You stated it is hard to shift into first gear as in hard to find? Hard to feather the clutch? Has that gotten better or worse since you put it on stands and ran through all the gears?
It sounds like the Input shaft seal is leaking transmission fluid and/or the slave cylinder is leaking and air is being introduced into the system.
Since it it wasn't leaking before the clutch replacement something you did is causing it to leak. Unfortunately you may have to pull the the tranny out and inspect the seals or take it to a shop once its out. It really sucks having to do something twice but that is part of learning how to work on cars - it happens to every one!!
Best of luck, Andrew
You stated it is hard to shift into first gear as in hard to find? Hard to feather the clutch? Has that gotten better or worse since you put it on stands and ran through all the gears?
It sounds like the Input shaft seal is leaking transmission fluid and/or the slave cylinder is leaking and air is being introduced into the system.
Since it it wasn't leaking before the clutch replacement something you did is causing it to leak. Unfortunately you may have to pull the the tranny out and inspect the seals or take it to a shop once its out. It really sucks having to do something twice but that is part of learning how to work on cars - it happens to every one!!
Best of luck, Andrew
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Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
Sometimes shifting into 1st is easy. Then, maybe after driving for 10-15 minutes, some of the shifts feel like it just doesn't want to go into the gear - almost like something is in the way. Definitely possible that I have air in the clutch line and/or the slave cylinder isn't pushing the fork enough.
When I was having such a hard time getting the transmission pulled, there were entire days where that input shaft was probably jammed up at a weird angle, so I'll bet that could have ripped or smashed the seal.
I'm going to work on pulling the tranny out again this weekend - hopefully it will go more smoothly this time. At least it's really hot and humid this time of year.
Assuming the input shaft seal needs to be replaced, should I look at replacing anything else in the vicinity like the bearing?
Thanks guys!
When I was having such a hard time getting the transmission pulled, there were entire days where that input shaft was probably jammed up at a weird angle, so I'll bet that could have ripped or smashed the seal.
I'm going to work on pulling the tranny out again this weekend - hopefully it will go more smoothly this time. At least it's really hot and humid this time of year.
Assuming the input shaft seal needs to be replaced, should I look at replacing anything else in the vicinity like the bearing?
Thanks guys!
If there isn't any noise, there would be no reason to replace the bearing. You should never let a transmission just "hang" for an extended period of time; hopefully, the input shaft didn't bend. Running the trans low on oil could damage internal parts, so you need to figure out why you have shifting issues before you remove the transmission or you could be pulling it a third time...and nobody wants to go through that! You'll need not only the front seal, but also the gasket for the front cover, as it will need to be removed to replace the seal.
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Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
I didn't hear any noise, so hopefully that's a good sign. I agree - definitely didn't want to leave it hanging on that shaft. The times that happened, it was at a point where I wasn't able to get the tranny pulled away or pushed back in at all. When that happened, I tried my best to make sure it was at a straight line into the engine. If it was bent, would it be obvious?
Also hoping that I didn't run it on too little fluid for too long. I only drove it for 2 days before I realized that it was leaking, but it was about 1 quart low when I checked the level.
So today I pulled the transmission off. Went quite a bit faster this time. When I was pulling the starter, I could see a little MT fluid on the inside (tranny side) of the housing. Would that suggest that I need to pull the clutch assembly off and will need to clean everything off?
I can find the input shaft seal easily enough online, but haven't been able to find a gasket for that front piece that's bolted on where the shaft goes through. Any idea where to buy that gasket?
Thank you!
Also hoping that I didn't run it on too little fluid for too long. I only drove it for 2 days before I realized that it was leaking, but it was about 1 quart low when I checked the level.
So today I pulled the transmission off. Went quite a bit faster this time. When I was pulling the starter, I could see a little MT fluid on the inside (tranny side) of the housing. Would that suggest that I need to pull the clutch assembly off and will need to clean everything off?
I can find the input shaft seal easily enough online, but haven't been able to find a gasket for that front piece that's bolted on where the shaft goes through. Any idea where to buy that gasket?
Thank you!
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Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
Well sheeeeyattt! What I thought was MT fuild coming from the input shaft (or something else in the bellhousing) turns out to have been motor oil coming in from the 'new' rear main seal. I also replaced the 2 half-moon rubber seals and new RTV around the bottom of the upper oil pan. Both sets were Fel-Pro.
I shoulda' left well enough alone on that seal. I'll order one from Nissan this time.
It may have just been a poor install, but I'm hoping that the Nissan version of that rear main and half-moon oil pan seals will do the trick.
My initial assumption that it had to be the transmission leaking was based on my filling it with 3 quarts of Amsoil after I put everything back the first time. I filled it through the gearshift hole, and never bothered to check the level using the filler plug hole. I just assumed there was the correct amount of fluid (not smart). Could have sworn I saw in multiple places that the capacity for that transmission is just under 6 pints.
Small consolation that at least the transmission's not leaking, I guess...
This project is already like a bad ex-girlfriend. Seemed like a good idea at the time, but now it's turned into a "learning experience!"
I shoulda' left well enough alone on that seal. I'll order one from Nissan this time.
It may have just been a poor install, but I'm hoping that the Nissan version of that rear main and half-moon oil pan seals will do the trick.
My initial assumption that it had to be the transmission leaking was based on my filling it with 3 quarts of Amsoil after I put everything back the first time. I filled it through the gearshift hole, and never bothered to check the level using the filler plug hole. I just assumed there was the correct amount of fluid (not smart). Could have sworn I saw in multiple places that the capacity for that transmission is just under 6 pints.
Small consolation that at least the transmission's not leaking, I guess...
This project is already like a bad ex-girlfriend. Seemed like a good idea at the time, but now it's turned into a "learning experience!"
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Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
OK - so I definitely poured 3 quarts (6 pints) of Amsoil into the tranny through the shifter hole initially.
Mine's a RWD, so that should have been slightly more than the recommended amount.
So logically, if I had to add almost another full quart after a couple of days' driving - there has to be a leak in the transmission, right?
With the tranny off the truck and on a jack, tilted with the input shaft pointing down around 45 degrees, I have filled the case with fluid and spun it by inserting the half-shaft into the rear of the tranny and turning the driveshaft for a couple of minutes. If nothing is leaking out, is that indicative of anything? Is it not a good test, since I can't spin that fast enough to generate heat and pressure inside?
Gah - this is crazy.
Mine's a RWD, so that should have been slightly more than the recommended amount.
So logically, if I had to add almost another full quart after a couple of days' driving - there has to be a leak in the transmission, right?
With the tranny off the truck and on a jack, tilted with the input shaft pointing down around 45 degrees, I have filled the case with fluid and spun it by inserting the half-shaft into the rear of the tranny and turning the driveshaft for a couple of minutes. If nothing is leaking out, is that indicative of anything? Is it not a good test, since I can't spin that fast enough to generate heat and pressure inside?
Gah - this is crazy.
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Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
OK, so it's looking like the transmission wasn't leaking but rather the rear main seal and maybe the rear lip seal, both of which were just replaced.
The sealsI bought were made by Fel-Pro and seemed like they were a good fit.
I went to a local Nissan dealer this morning and bought a factory rear main seal and set of factory oil pan lip seals.
When we replaced those seals a week ago, we pulled the upper oil pan out, but that was a huge pain involving removing a whole bunch more stuff and using an engine hoist to get enough clearance without having to remove the steering equipment and the brace it sits on.
It was mentioned in an earlier post that the rear main seal can be changed without dropping the oil pan.
Can you give me a rundown on how you'd do that, and if it's possible to replace those 2 lip seals without dropping the pan as well?
If we have to drop the pan again, we will - I just really, really don't want to.
Thanks guys!
The sealsI bought were made by Fel-Pro and seemed like they were a good fit.
I went to a local Nissan dealer this morning and bought a factory rear main seal and set of factory oil pan lip seals.
When we replaced those seals a week ago, we pulled the upper oil pan out, but that was a huge pain involving removing a whole bunch more stuff and using an engine hoist to get enough clearance without having to remove the steering equipment and the brace it sits on.
It was mentioned in an earlier post that the rear main seal can be changed without dropping the oil pan.
Can you give me a rundown on how you'd do that, and if it's possible to replace those 2 lip seals without dropping the pan as well?
If we have to drop the pan again, we will - I just really, really don't want to.
Thanks guys!
If you are changing the front lip seal, you have to drop the pan. I did the rear lip seal while replacing the rear main seal, removing the seal retainer, once, a long time ago. It wasn't easy and I had to put a lot of downward force on the retainer to compress the seal down enough to get the retainer in place. In your situation, I think it would be better to drop the pan.
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Gehrkmania
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:39 am
- Location: Chattanooga, TN
Kind of what I figured. I'll feel better if we do it the right way.
When we changed the rear main and oil pan seals last week, we used an engine hoist to raise the engine up to get enough clearance (barely) to pull the upper oil pan.
Reading the FSM, it looks like the correct way to gain that clearance is to remove some of the steering equipment and a brace that runs across the bottom, below the oil pan.
Have any of you guys done that recently enough to share any tips or advice? I have the manual, but a few of those steps in that process seem to assume I know more than I know.
Thank you!
When we changed the rear main and oil pan seals last week, we used an engine hoist to raise the engine up to get enough clearance (barely) to pull the upper oil pan.
Reading the FSM, it looks like the correct way to gain that clearance is to remove some of the steering equipment and a brace that runs across the bottom, below the oil pan.
Have any of you guys done that recently enough to share any tips or advice? I have the manual, but a few of those steps in that process seem to assume I know more than I know.
Thank you!
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