how does it handle with the new lift?

iheartmypathy wrote:how does it handle with the new lift?

Honestly no difference

nismofan wrote:Looks good! How many inches of lift did you put?

The body lift is 3". Plus a rancbo quicklift and 33.6" hankooks.

That is bad a$$!!
I've been contemplating buying that kit for over a year.

I was hoping to be able to fit 35's on it after the body lift, but it looks like you've got 34" tires and had to do some cutting already.

Now if only "BushSmacker" would make fender flares for the R51, life would be awesome!

Touchdown wrote:That is bad a$$!!
I've been contemplating buying that kit for over a year.

I was hoping to be able to fit 35's on it after the body lift, but it looks like you've got 34" tires and had to do some cutting already.

Now if only "BushSmacker" would make fender flares for the R51, life would be awesome!

im planning on going to 35s next. part of the cutting is due to me running pro comp series 98 wheels with 4.25" of backspacing and 1.5" wheel spacers. plus i had cut the fenders before the body lift was installed.

Cool!
Post back here and let us know how they fit!

I may stick with the stock rims on 35's then and just buy some spacers to push the wheels out a tad. Once you start raising it, the narrow stance really starts to look funny!

Touchdown wrote:Cool!
I may stick with the stock rims on 35's then and just buy some spacers to push the wheels out a tad. Once you start raising it, the narrow stance really starts to look funny!

only problem you may run into is the stock LE rim width (7.5in) vs the "tire manufacture minimum rim width specification". i ran into that just going to the 285/65's at my local discount tire. "the book" said the tire needed 8in min and my stock wheel was only 7.5. they wouldn't install them. had to go through a friend of a friend that worked at another DT to get them installed.

Ah...good point! Thanks Doc!

Ideally if I had an extra wad of cash just laying around, I'd buy a seperate set of 35" mud tires on their own aftermarket rims. (Just use those for off road days!)

Wishful thinking though!

Touchdown wrote:Ah...good point! Thanks Doc!

Ideally if I had an extra wad of cash just laying around, I'd buy a seperate set of 35" mud tires on their own aftermarket rims. (Just use those for off road days!)

Wishful thinking though!

my pro comp wheels were less then 300 shipped but they are heavy steel wheels.

Rims - $300
35" tires to go on said rims - $2000
The look on my wifes face when she sees the credit card bill - Priceless!

Touchdown wrote:Rims - $300
35" tires to go on said rims - $2000
The look on my wifes face when she sees the credit card bill - Priceless!

haha. what tires were you looking at getting?

Akley-

I re-read through this post again and after looking at the pics you posted of your truck on the first page you had me thinking about the stance of your truck.

I have been reading through tons of info on the Titan/Armada swaps vs doing say a rear SAS. From what I recall, the Titan swap adds about 6" in total track width to the truck. Of course there is the benefit of additional wheel travel, especially when done with the long travel UCAs.

So, looking at your truck, it turns out the track width would end up being very similar to what you have now with the ProComp wheels and 1.5" spacers.

If my math serves right, the ProComp wheels with a 4.25" backspacing have a -0.6mm offset. The factory 17" wheels on my Pathfinder are listed as a 30mm offset. That means the difference between factory wheels and your ProComps is 36mm. That is approximately 1.41". Add that to the 1.5" wheel spacers you used and you end up with 2.91" added to the track width on each side. Obviously, that puts you pretty close to the approximate total of 6" track width from doing the Titan swap.

Does that make sense?

By the way, nice job on your truck! It looks great.

canderso wrote:Akley-

I re-read through this post again and after looking at the pics you posted of your truck on the first page you had me thinking about the stance of your truck.

I have been reading through tons of info on the Titan/Armada swaps vs doing say a rear SAS. From what I recall, the Titan swap adds about 6" in total track width to the truck. Of course there is the benefit of additional wheel travel, especially when done with the long travel UCAs.

So, looking at your truck, it turns out the track width would end up being very similar to what you have now with the ProComp wheels and 1.5" spacers.

If my math serves right, the ProComp wheels with a 4.25" backspacing have a -0.6mm offset. The factory 17" wheels on my Pathfinder are listed as a 30mm offset. That means the difference between factory wheels and your ProComps is 36mm. That is approximately 1.41". Add that to the 1.5" wheel spacers you used and you end up with 2.91" added to the track width on each side. Obviously, that puts you pretty close to the approximate total of 6" track width from doing the Titan swap.

Does that make sense?

By the way, nice job on your truck! It looks great.

it makes sense. my tires sit about 2.5-3" out past the fender so it is about the same as the titan swap. that is something that i had been looking into for the lift, but i really only go mudding and dont need the massive wheel travel. plus i was unsure about what to do about the rear.

i would love to do the sas, then i can run bigger tires and regearing would be a lot easier to deal with. but i am planning on adding the calmini db with coilovers in the front and titan remote res shocks in the rear. then i think i am gonna go with a titan front diff and i might have a plan for a rear diff, so i can hopefully fit some 37s on the pathy with 4.10s or better gearing. but i will need a second car before i can go completely nuts.

haha. what tires were you looking at getting?

I was thinking about getting the Pro Comp MT2's or the Mickey Thompson Baja Claws.

so i can hopefully fit some 37s on the pathy

That would take some massive cutting to fit those babies!!

I honestly don’t think the R51 could handle 37’s. My 35’s barely fit, and in the rear, it definitely looks as if they have the potential to rub given the right situation/flex. The front should be fine, I’ve modified my fenders so they don’t rub at all.

But with some fairly extensive body modification, it can be done and also be functional.