Hey guys got any suggestion on what to do to bypass the high beam computer for hid kits the bi xeons on my 2010 are great but the hi beam goes because the computer wont let it turnon let me know if any of you have heard of anything

US, CAN or EURO truck? Daytime running lights equipped? factory or aftermarket? Digital or analog ballast? Ballasts and bulbs or controller too? Bi-xenon two filiment, or projecting bulb style?

I've done a million of the kits in different ways on lots of models, send me some details and i'll try to help.

Ok thanks for the reply. What I have is a kit that is not bi xeon because the peeps did not tell me when I bought them so I am returing them. So I will be trying to get different ones. Let me know a kit that worked for you. I have a 2010 pathfinder U.S no daytime lights. They said that the computer will not let you run hid in high beams. I am pretty sure there is away to bypass them. So if you could help that would be great.

would be great to know, if we can put the bi xenons so we wont lose the high beams, any answers?

i've got bixenons on mine and have for about a year. US truck with aftermarket DTRL. You can run Bi-xenons so long as you run digital ballasts (with the extra relay/controller) and DO NOT use the projection style bulbs. You'll find that you might get a flicker or something, but they bulbs will not move properlly. I wouldn't recommend this combo for Canadian trucks however.

Ok thanks What year is your pathfinder. Have you heard of the high beams going out like that. Also what brand of bi xeons are yours. You are saying that the digitals will work fine?

mine are some knock offs from over-seas. The headlight control is in the IPDM and BCM. (and you know how sensitive those IPDMs are!) I find the really problematic ones are those projection style ones. If you test them, you'll find there isn't sufficient ground to project the bulb out for high beam. You CAN add a relay on the ground side, but then you have to make and add a sub harness. If you get digital ballasts and use the 2 filament style as opposed to the proj. style, you should be fine. The kit should also use the controller/relay that has it's own power and ground connections. You'll have to make 3 more connections, but it lasts way longer.

I have also seen some knock-offs that have the pins misplaced in the connectors. The HID's will actually work with the wrong polarity for a while before the ballasts blow, and weird things with flashing lights or lights not coming back after cycling between beams happens.

Hey Tech,

I almost bought a set of HID's for my truck yesterday, but then I stumbled on this thread. I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada and drive a Canadian version of the Pathfinder with DRL's. What should I be looking for. Is there a certain brand or model? It sounds like you know what you're doing, and I would really appreciate a little help in doing it right the first time.

thanks in advance

Spicoli, PM sent

Hey what k would you recomend 6000k or 8000k looking for the best light out put?

Tech wrote:mine are some knock offs from over-seas. The headlight control is in the IPDM and BCM. (and you know how sensitive those IPDMs are!) I find the really problematic ones are those projection style ones. If you test them, you'll find there isn't sufficient ground to project the bulb out for high beam. You CAN add a relay on the ground side, but then you have to make and add a sub harness. If you get digital ballasts and use the 2 filament style as opposed to the proj. style, you should be fine. The kit should also use the controller/relay that has it's own power and ground connections. You'll have to make 3 more connections, but it lasts way longer.

I have also seen some knock-offs that have the pins misplaced in the connectors. The HID's will actually work with the wrong polarity for a while before the ballasts blow, and weird things with flashing lights or lights not coming back after cycling between beams happens.

Everything that I've read on HID's suggests that 4300K is the whitest with the largest output. From what I understand the brightness(lumens) goes down the higher you go with the number. After doing a little bit of research I found this explanation. Read it and see if it makes sense.

And I quote:

" There are many companies and private merchants out there that will advertise 10000K, and even 12000K HID kits selling for more or less around $100. Most of these vendors lurk around on ebay, online car forums, websites, and ricer accessory shops. 100% of the people that buy these kits do so because they are uninformed, uneducated, or misguided in the field of lighting, and will buy these junk kits thinking three things: that these bulbs are brighter, that these bulbs should cost more money, and/or that they will perform better. All three statements are completely false. Perhaps this misconception and frenzy for purple lights originates from BMW and Audi's infamous Hella projector HIDs. So allow me to explain the real truth of the matter... Philips is the number one manufacturer of HID bulbs. The Philips OEM D2S bulb is rated at 4300K at 12.8 volts and produces 3200 lumens of light. The Philips Ultinon D2S is 5800K at 12.8 volts and produces 2400 lumens of light. As you can see, with all other factors remaining constant, the brightness of an HID bulb declines the higher up the color index you go. Vision, a Korean bulb manufacturer, makes an 8000K bulb, which they used to advertise on Acura-Forums as 2000 lumens bright. This is barely a marked improvement over halogens, and will produce more glare and eye fatigue than it is beneficial. 4300K has been proven through tireless independent research by the Germans, Japanese, and Americans to be the most functional, truest white and thus the brightest possible color temperature (ceteris paribus).


Every car manufacturer in the world (including BMW and Audi) uses none other than a standard 4300K gas-discharge bulb. No exceptions. The reason being is that 4300K is daylight white in color and produces the same color visible light as direct sunlight. This is least fatiguing functional color on the eyes and produces the most comfortable contrast on the road.


So the million dollar question is now: Why do BMW & Audi lights appear blue when they use a white bulb?


Well, this coloration is the result of the light projectors; the lenses: it's transparency, it's curvature, the tiny grooves etched into it; the projector assembly, the shield, and the reflector bowl. All these components work together to produce a signature of light unique to that particular optic's design. On the Audi and BMW projectors, the lens curvature at the edge bends the white light producing a "prism effect". White light is broken down to it's fundemental colors. Since blue lights is high energy, it is absorbed last and thus travels farther. So with this prism effect, you'll notice that BMW HIDs are only purple and blue from the sides, the top, and the bottom edges, but are always daylight white on the road and in the beam pattern. This phenomenon can be demonstrated when you watch an oncoming BMW hit a pot hole or speed bump in the road and the car's nose pitches up and down. The headlights will flicker and "throw colors off", but returns to a solid white beam pattern directly on the road."

SPICOLI wrote:Everything that I've read on HID's suggests that 4300K is the whitest with the largest output. From what I understand the brightness(lumens) goes down the higher you go with the number. After doing a little bit of research I found this explanation. Read it and see if it makes sense.

And I quote:

" There are many companies and private merchants out there that will advertise 10000K, and even 12000K HID kits selling for more or less around $100. Most of these vendors lurk around on ebay, online car forums, websites, and ricer accessory shops. 100% of the people that buy these kits do so because they are uninformed, uneducated, or misguided in the field of lighting, and will buy these junk kits thinking three things: that these bulbs are brighter, that these bulbs should cost more money, and/or that they will perform better. All three statements are completely false. Perhaps this misconception and frenzy for purple lights originates from BMW and Audi's infamous Hella projector HIDs. So allow me to explain the real truth of the matter... Philips is the number one manufacturer of HID bulbs. The Philips OEM D2S bulb is rated at 4300K at 12.8 volts and produces 3200 lumens of light. The Philips Ultinon D2S is 5800K at 12.8 volts and produces 2400 lumens of light. As you can see, with all other factors remaining constant, the brightness of an HID bulb declines the higher up the color index you go. Vision, a Korean bulb manufacturer, makes an 8000K bulb, which they used to advertise on Acura-Forums as 2000 lumens bright. This is barely a marked improvement over halogens, and will produce more glare and eye fatigue than it is beneficial. 4300K has been proven through tireless independent research by the Germans, Japanese, and Americans to be the most functional, truest white and thus the brightest possible color temperature (ceteris paribus).


Every car manufacturer in the world (including BMW and Audi) uses none other than a standard 4300K gas-discharge bulb. No exceptions. The reason being is that 4300K is daylight white in color and produces the same color visible light as direct sunlight. This is least fatiguing functional color on the eyes and produces the most comfortable contrast on the road.


So the million dollar question is now: Why do BMW & Audi lights appear blue when they use a white bulb?


Well, this coloration is the result of the light projectors; the lenses: it's transparency, it's curvature, the tiny grooves etched into it; the projector assembly, the shield, and the reflector bowl. All these components work together to produce a signature of light unique to that particular optic's design. On the Audi and BMW projectors, the lens curvature at the edge bends the white light producing a "prism effect". White light is broken down to it's fundemental colors. Since blue lights is high energy, it is absorbed last and thus travels farther. So with this prism effect, you'll notice that BMW HIDs are only purple and blue from the sides, the top, and the bottom edges, but are always daylight white on the road and in the beam pattern. This phenomenon can be demonstrated when you watch an oncoming BMW hit a pot hole or speed bump in the road and the car's nose pitches up and down. The headlights will flicker and "throw colors off", but returns to a solid white beam pattern directly on the road."

So basicly the hid kits are a waste of money is how I take this article. Unless you buy the 4k litghts.

I think HID kit's can improve your lighting. I just bought a kit today after many days of researching my options. I ended up getting a 6000k kit. The kit cost me $100 CDN and came with a 1 year warranty. I wanted to get an HID for improved lighting at night, whereas some people get them because they are cool. As far as the intensity of the light (4300k vs 6000k vs 8000 vs 10000k), one has to make a decision. I wanted a white light without the bluish look. After getting my vendor to show me the different temperatures of lights installed on cars, I decided that their 6000k was the closest to pure white that they offered. I hope that I'm happy with that decision.

I want to thank TECH for helping me out greatly. The man's got MAD KNOWLEDGE and he knows what he's talking about. Thanks TECH.

I'm hoping to have them installed tomorrow and then we'll see how I did in decision making.

Hey sounds good LEt me know what you think of the 6k after you get them in so I can fig out what to go with. Thanks for everyones help on this issue.

SPICOLI wrote:I think HID kit's can improve your lighting. I just bought a kit today after many days of researching my options. I ended up getting a 6000k kit. The kit cost me $100 CDN and came with a 1 year warranty. I wanted to get an HID for improved lighting at night, whereas some people get them because they are cool. As far as the intensity of the light (4300k vs 6000k vs 8000 vs 10000k), one has to make a decision. I wanted a white light without the bluish look. After getting my vendor to show me the different temperatures of lights installed on cars, I decided that their 6000k was the closest to pure white that they offered. I hope that I'm happy with that decision.

I want to thank TECH for helping me out greatly. The man's got MAD KNOWLEDGE and he knows what he's talking about. Thanks TECH.

I'm hoping to have them installed tomorrow and then we'll see how I did in decision making.

Thanks SPICOLI! Any time! Let us know how you made out!