First the simple one - belts. Mine started squealing when cold recently. Any suggestions on what type/make to get?

Then oils (engine and tranny). I met an AMSOIL rep recently and he got me thinking of shifting to AMSOIL. First, I'm semi-hesitant on even going synthetic since then you're stuck with synthetic. But the rep stated with AMSOIL that you only change their fluids every 20-25k miles. And that the MFG 3k (or is it 4k with Nissan?) oil change interval would not void my warranty due to a federal law. So does anyone have experience with AMSOIL - pro or con? And anyone have more info on that federal law?

I've used Amsoil and they're very good products, but there's no way I would go 20K miles without an oil change. I'm not sure if the filter would even be working at that point.

I use Mobil 1 and change the oil around 6K miles. If I used Amsoil, I'd do tthe same.

Spamcan wrote:First the simple one - belts. Mine started squealing when cold recently. Any suggestions on what type/make to get?

OEM seems best
http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic. ... belt+noise

Cooper993 wrote:I've used Amsoil and they're very good products, but there's no way I would go 20K miles without an oil change. I'm not sure if the filter would even be working at that point.

I use Mobil 1 and change the oil around 6K miles. If I used Amsoil, I'd do tthe same.

i fully agree
i go 4,000 miles between changes with Mobil 1
i think it's a good compromise between quality & expense
i think it's also important to factor in the time element
it may take some trucks three years to reach 20K!
i sure wouldn't want to have the same oil & filter for that long

Thanks guys. I think I'll get some OEM belts and stick with Mobil 1. And I agree, 20k+ miles would definitely be 2+ years for me. AMSOIL's website states under normal usage that their oil could go 35K miles! But to change their oil every year if that comes first. So very overkill on the mileage usage = wasted $$$$...

I run synthetic (Mobile 1) in my PF as I have in all my previous vehicles. I change my oil every 7000 kms and I have never, ever had any issues with any of my vehicles.

Regular maintenance is GOD.

It costs a lot less to do it regularly, than to fix problems AND do maintenance on top of the problems.

Change your fluids/filters, rotate your tires, check/change your belts, check your brakes and you'll be much happier with your vehicle.

Mobil 1 Synthetic 10-30w and a NAPA Gold oil filter every 5000 miles for me.

Shell Full Synthetic 5w30 for me and 6-7,000 change int. Although I don't think the shell is as good as The Mobil 1 but the Shell Synthetic is more then good enough for 6-7,000 miles it's good oil I have used it for years. As for filters I run either Nissan OEM or Fram Ultra.

Refer to Nissan service bulletin #NTB06-072B for the belt squeak. Nissan has an updated tensioner and belt to address the problem and it also give details of how to check and/or adjust the power steering pump for possible alignment issues. The updated parts are referred to as a "serpentine belt enhancement kit" on the aftermarket. The Nissan part numbers are:

Belt: 11720-EA200
Tensioner: 11955-EA20A

As for the oil changes, Nissan recommends 7500 mile intervals with conventional oil. I use the same intervals, but go with Walmart's house brand full-synthetic, which is running about $18 for a 5-quart jug, and a genuine Nissan oil filter.

smj999smj wrote:Refer to Nissan service bulletin #NTB06-072B for the belt squeak. Nissan has an updated tensioner and belt to address the problem and it also give details of how to check and/or adjust the power steering pump for possible alignment issues. The updated parts are referred to as a "serpentine belt enhancement kit" on the aftermarket. The Nissan part numbers are:

Belt: 11720-EA200
Tensioner: 11955-EA20A

As for the oil changes, Nissan recommends 7500 mile intervals with conventional oil. I use the same intervals, but go with Walmart's house brand full-synthetic, which is running about $18 for a 5-quart jug, and a genuine Nissan oil filter.

I just thought I would mention that the Walmart synthetic oil is a fine synthetic oil I ran it several cars and trucks over the years. The guy who lives next door to me runs it in his Chevy truck with 300,000 miles on it and changes his oil between 7-8,000 miles. Last year we sent an oil sample into Blackstone labs for analysis and everything looked great. Many people shy away from this oil thinking it's a junk cheep synthetic but it is a quality oil. It may not have the reserve capacity to go long change intervals like Mobil 1 or Amsoil but for 7-8,000 miles it works just fine run it with confidence.

1,000 miles per quart of oil in the sump based on acidity increase from combustion byproducts. This happens before anything else, and will happen over time to any oil you choose.

Last time I checked AMSOIL only tests better in the "tri-ball" test - which is intended for greases. Mobil 1 is and has always been the winner or a close second in any independent test I've ever seen.

All of that being said, the difference between synthetics is usually going to be at the fringes of what you'll see in an SUV: viscosity break down after severe or extremely long term use, additives that provide last-ditch protection from metal-to-metal contact (most of which will be common or specified by the API or JASO anyway), etc. You have to test really long and really hard to get to differences that will matter, and well beyond the usual use case for the average consumer.

Put it this way, it was unlikely that I was ever going to ride my motorcycle hard enough to where the additional molybdenum content in Shell Rotella T over Mobil 1 or others was going to make a difference and reduce metal-to-metal contact by "this much." It's really, really unlikely that it's going to happen to my 5,000 lb bicycle and surfboard carrier...

ShipFixer wrote:1,000 miles per quart of oil in the sump based on acidity increase from combustion byproducts. This happens before anything else, and will happen over time to any oil you choose.

Last time I checked AMSOIL only tests better in the "tri-ball" test - which is intended for greases. Mobil 1 is and has always been the winner or a close second in any independent test I've ever seen.

All of that being said, the difference between synthetics is usually going to be at the fringes of what you'll see in an SUV: viscosity break down after severe or extremely long term use, additives that provide last-ditch protection from metal-to-metal contact (most of which will be common or specified by the API or JASO anyway), etc. You have to test really long and really hard to get to differences that will matter, and well beyond the usual use case for the average consumer.

Put it this way, it was unlikely that I was ever going to ride my motorcycle hard enough to where the additional molybdenum content in Shell Rotella T over Mobil 1 or others was going to make a difference and reduce metal-to-metal contact by "this much." It's really, really unlikely that it's going to happen to my 5,000 lb bicycle and surfboard carrier...

Lots of real good points here and exactly why I run the synthetic oil that I run (Shell Synthetic) if I stick with a reasonable oil change interval it is more then up to the task and I see little point in spending more $$ for little benefit in return.

FYI, the Walmart "Supertech" full-synthetic oil is made by Royal Shell, which also makes Shell Rotella.