mrredskin wrote:

gond34 wrote:I agree with him ^^^^^ If I remember right, it was damned near $600 bucks for that P.O.S. sub!

did you use any sort of guide when overhauling your system? i'm mostly interested in getting to the sub, itself

About the only guide I used was my own ears and a little bit of background from the days of selling and installing systems at Best Buy... If it sounds good to you, that's what matters. For the "regular" speakers, I didn't really have a desire to amp them, so I went with the Infinity's because they sounded crystal clear on the mid's and high's and had a high sensitivity rating. I didn't really care how well they produced bass because I knew I was going to go with a sub and that I would be cutting the bass out from them anyway with the internal crossover in the new deck. As for the deck itself, I went with one that at least had the capability of being "fully loaded". I ended up adding a backup camera and satellite radio to it and have the option of adding navigation later if I want. I've also got an SD card slot and USB slot right on the front of it, which is nice for snagging a song that's catchy and just popping it in (also works great for customizing the face with family pics). It's also got a USB interface on the back, which I utilized for a standard portable hard drive that I installed using a power inverter (endless hours of music). As for the sub, I knew I wanted to have the capability of leaving it in while utilizing the third row seats, so I knew I had to go with a "truck" box. I also didn't want to take up too much space across the back, so I decided a 10" would be the best option. I didn't like the sound quality of most of the "traditional" round 10" subs that would fit, so I started looking at the Solo-Baric L3 which conveniently already came in the box size needed. I also liked the sound quality better; I don't know if it has to do with the fact that the sub can push more airspace due to it's increased surface area over a round sub (100 sq. inches displacement vs. 78.5 sq. inches for a round sub); but it definitely sounds deeper and has a little more "punch" than similar round subs with similar power ratings when connected to the same amp. As for the amp, I just went with a mono block Alpine that had enough power to push the sub into it's upper range of power handling capabilties. To keep it all in place and "neat", I mounted the amp right to the back of the box (I know, not the best thing, but it works well for my application) and put heavy duty velcro on the floor of the truck and bottom of the box. When I do need to take out the sub, all I have to do is disconnect the wires, cap them, and yank the box and everything out (about a 5 minute job, at most). Wow, this post ended up a lot longer than I initially intended...

smj999smj wrote:The only issue with that is the Bose subwoofer speakers have a square-ish mounting frame that sets into the subwoofer box. You'll have to get a little inventive to mount round speakers.

Yeah, that's kind of what I expected. Having dealt with Bose before & their fond use of proprietary sizing & shapes, it's of no surprise. Still, I think I would at least try that before adding in a standalone sub.

2007 pathfinder sub are blown. How do I remove the panel to get to the speakers?

You don't have to remove the third row seats, but you will have to move them and the left, second row seat, up or down as needed to get the panel out. You'll need a panel tool, 14mm and 10mm socket wrenches, and Phillips head screwdrivers. I've done this a couple of times, but I'm posting this info from memory, so keep that in mind! Open the driver's side, rear door, and the rear hatch. Remove the sill plate at the left rear door and the one by the hatch door. Remove the two, seat belt anchor bolts. On the left side of the hatch opening, there is a plastic, tie-down loop; pop open the cover to reveal the screw or bolt head and remove. Pull out the welt mouldings away from the panel at the hatch opening and by the left rear door. Remove the trunk floor cover and the parts under it, if in the way. You will see several, metal, tie-down loops on the panel. They have a plastic reveal-panel in them that you can pop up to reveal a 10mm head bolt under them. Remove the bolt and remove the anchor point from the panel; do the same to the others. On the panel, near the left rear door, is a reveal panel (looks like a "D" turned 90-degrees) that you will need to remove and expose the bolt underneath, which you will also need to remove. There are four knobs on the panel (where the small nets attaches to); I know you don't have to remove the two on the forward side, but you "may" have to remove the two towards the hatch-side of the panel. I'm pretty sure that's it, other than using the panel tool to disengage the clips from the body and maneuvering the panel around the seats and out the back of the vehicle. Once the panel is out of the way, you'll see the two subwoofer speakers and the subwoofer assy. Each speaker can be removed by removing the four, Phillips head screws, pulling the speaker out and unplugging it from the harness.

Smj , Thanks so much for the quick reply. I'll have to get the panel tool then get down to work.

Most auto parts stores carry them. You can use a large, flat-blade screwdriver in a pinch, but a panel tool makes the job a little easier.