2-inch sub-frame lift installed in the rear.

The front sits at 3 inches lifted and the rear now sits at 3.50 inches lifted (the rear sat at 1.75 inches lifted before the sub-frame lift)

Here s a list of the parts I used. (I put this kit together myself.)

3ft cut to the proper length) 2x2 1/4 wall T6 6061 Aluminum Square Tubing (painted gloss black).

6) M14x1.50 130mm long Grade 8.8 bolts from fastenal.com

2) Rancho RS9000XL Armada shocks. These shocks are the proper length for the pathfinder after you lift the sub-frame 2 inches.

2) extended brake lines from performancelifts.com The brake lines I ordered were for the front but it turns out they will work in the rear.


Overall its a pretty straight forward job to do.

Did you have any suspension lift before hand? you cut 6 spacers? also did you have to remove the sub frame tie by the transmission? do you have part number for the brake lines?

Before I installed this subframe lift, I was running a suspension lift.

3 inch strut spacer in the front

Freedom Off-Road tubular upper control arms

1.75 inch rancho coil spring spacer in the rear

AC Delco Heavy Duty springs for the R51 Pathfinder.

The brake lines are from performancelifts.com

Just search "Extended Front Brake Lines Nissan Frontier"

Those are the extended brake lines I am going to use. They fit just fine on the rear. There wasnt any difference between them or the old ones.

To drop the subframe, make sure you have a floor jack or two on hand. You'll loosen the 3 subframe bolts on each side then slowly lower the subframe to the ground.

You'll place your floor jack(s) under the rear differential to hold the subframe in place while you loosen the subframe bolts. Then lower the differential slowly down. The rear differential is mounted to the subframe so when you lower the differential, the subframe will follow suit.

BEFORE YOU LOWER THE SUBFRAME, REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPERS FROM THE ROTORS. THE UPPER PORTION OF THE BRAKE LINES ARE ATTACHED TO THE MAIN FRAME AND WILL STRETCH IF YOU DONT REMOVE THE CALIPERS FROM THE ROTORS.

Extended Brake Lines are going in as we speak.

I had some freetime yesterday so I installed my 4 inch subframe blocks in the rear to raise the lift in the rear to 5.75 inches.

List of Parts Used for the lift:

2. 2x4 1/4 wall T6 6061 Aluminum rectangle tubing.

2. 2.5 inch diameter 4 inches long T6 6061 Aluminum solid round bar

4. M14x1.50 80mm bolts. These screw the rectangle tubing into the frame of the truck. They are the upper lift block bolts.

4. Grade 8 1/2 13 4 inch long bolts. These are the bolts that connect the sub frame to the lower part of the lift blocks.

2. Grade 8 1/2 13 7 inch long bolts. These are the bolts used for the round bar spacer that goes on the front part of the subframe.

6. Grade 8 1/2 13 Flange Locking Nuts

An assortment of 1/2 grade 8 washers

2. Extended brake lines. These were already installed on the truck.

So after doing the lift I had noticed a vibration in the driveshaft in the rear.

Man, I'd use loctite and RTV gasket maker on that spacer when installing.

silverarrow27 wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 17, 2020 12:17 am

Man, I'd use loctite and RTV gasket maker on that spacer when installing.

On the Driveshaft spacer or the Sub frame Blocks?

The sub frame blocks do not budge at all period. Even when I am rounding tight corners. The wheels begin to articulate with the suspension before the blocks will ever try to shift. The sub frame blocks all utilize the strongest possible bolts and flange Lock Nuts on the market. Grade 8 1/2 bolts and Metric Grade 10.9 M14x1.50 bolts.

Gasket Maker would most likely make a bigger mess under the truck IMO but you could use it if you wanted to.

I was talking about that driveshaft spacer because that is going to see a lot of torque and spinning thousands of revolutions.

silverarrow27 wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 18, 2020 3:50 pm

I was talking about that driveshaft spacer because that is going to see a lot of torque and spinning thousands of revolutions.

The new Driveshaft spacer will come with Grade 8 bolts and hardware. Most people who do this mod are Frontier and Titan owners since they can do a rear lift with blocks, leaf spring packs, and shackles.

Now that I am lifted this much in the rear though, I am joining the driveshaft spacer club.

Loctite is recommended but gasket maker is not because if you need to service your diff and the spacer wont come off, then you are in trouble.

Was it necessary to drill holes into the aluminum tubing? If so, how far apart do the holes need to be?