Rancho Quick Lift walkthrough?
Moderator: volvite
Rancho Quick Lift walkthrough?
I'm going to do this quick lift install Wednesday and any time I take on a project like this I like to have information! Is there a walkthrough or video on these forums for the quick lift and rear spacer install? I cant seem to find one. There's one video on youtube specifically for the pathfinder but it's not that great. ANy help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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dcommoncents
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2015 1:09 pm
- Location: Pittsburgh, PA
I haven't seen any thorough how-to's on this, and believe me, I looked before I started. One useful resource is a directory of the service manual, which will give you the torque specs and show how all the parts assemble. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/ ... athfinder/ Just click through them to find the front and rear suspension sections.
Beyond that, it's really pretty intuitive if you're mechanically inclined at all. Off the top of my head, the only things I would warn about, some of which are kind of obvious, are as follows:
1) Make sure you support the lower control arm on the front because it will drop when you remove the strut, potentially pulling your cv out and other undesirable things. I always use home electrical wire as a twist tie for this sort of thing.
2) PB blast the heck out of everything before you start. I didn't have any problems (other than the upper rear strut bolts which are a PITA to reach) using my impact wrench, but I started soaking the bolts a day or two in advance. Also, have camber bolts ready as needed, but be prepared for them not to come out of the control arm bushing. I still have some that I'm trying to figure out how to remove.
3) Don't remove the rear springs from their perch. It is much easier to get the spacers under the springs while they are still in place, although it still takes some force to pivot the rear control arm down far enough. I think there were some bolts to loosen that helped.
4) When you do the front, make sure you disconnect the sway bar; otherwise you won't get anywhere.
5) If you only have one jack, put the truck on stands. I don't know how I would have gotten everything back together without having the jack free to put under the control arms to align bolt holes.
6) It's obvious, but make sure you put the rear shocks on the right way so that the adjustment knobs face out. Actually, you could probably still reach them if they face inward, so that's something to consider.
7) Make sure you put anti-seize on the cam bolts you replace, if any, so that you can get them out again later.
That's all I can think of for now; good luck!
Beyond that, it's really pretty intuitive if you're mechanically inclined at all. Off the top of my head, the only things I would warn about, some of which are kind of obvious, are as follows:
1) Make sure you support the lower control arm on the front because it will drop when you remove the strut, potentially pulling your cv out and other undesirable things. I always use home electrical wire as a twist tie for this sort of thing.
2) PB blast the heck out of everything before you start. I didn't have any problems (other than the upper rear strut bolts which are a PITA to reach) using my impact wrench, but I started soaking the bolts a day or two in advance. Also, have camber bolts ready as needed, but be prepared for them not to come out of the control arm bushing. I still have some that I'm trying to figure out how to remove.
3) Don't remove the rear springs from their perch. It is much easier to get the spacers under the springs while they are still in place, although it still takes some force to pivot the rear control arm down far enough. I think there were some bolts to loosen that helped.
4) When you do the front, make sure you disconnect the sway bar; otherwise you won't get anywhere.
5) If you only have one jack, put the truck on stands. I don't know how I would have gotten everything back together without having the jack free to put under the control arms to align bolt holes.
6) It's obvious, but make sure you put the rear shocks on the right way so that the adjustment knobs face out. Actually, you could probably still reach them if they face inward, so that's something to consider.
7) Make sure you put anti-seize on the cam bolts you replace, if any, so that you can get them out again later.
That's all I can think of for now; good luck!
So I did this yesterday. Install was pretty simple, I was surprised. The only hiccup was I somehow managed to strip the sway bar end link on the drivers side but luckily Summit Racing is only about 3 minutes away from my house! The rear was even easier but getting those struts off was a nightmare because I don't currently have any wrenches over 19mm. I was going to install the air lift 1000 while I had it apart but they only shipped me one air bag in the damn box 
so that'll be a project for another day. As soon as I get the wheels and tires I'll post a pic with the final product but it feels great on the highway now.
so that'll be a project for another day. As soon as I get the wheels and tires I'll post a pic with the final product but it feels great on the highway now.-
Lord Farquaad
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2012 12:41 am
- Location: South Africa
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dcommoncents
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2015 1:09 pm
- Location: Pittsburgh, PA
I didn't take any pictures; I promise you won't need them though. You just remove the bolts holding the lower springperch/arm in place so that you can lower it to get the spacers in. The struts are only a matter of two bolts - you can't miss them, but you'll have to get creative and have patience to remove the top strut bolt.
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dcommoncents
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2015 1:09 pm
- Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Yes. I know it's different for different model years (I can't remember which ones), but some don't have cam bolts in the front (such as my 2012). If your only asking about the rear, I'm pretty sure all models come from the factory with cam bolts. Apparently some people have problems getting the alignment correct after a spacer lift in the rear, but mine wasn't very far out of alignment afterward.
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