Another break down help..2006 Pathfinder 4x4

[jrobers]

So I had a problem with the Tranny control module and had that replaced 2 months ago. This morning while driving my Pathy went into I think you guys call it "Limp Mode" I lost the gas pedal and the dash showed I was in 4HI, but I wasn't. It also showed the check engine light and the VLC was off. I turned it off waited about five minutes restarted and only the check engine light was on. I drove about 3 miles to work and had it towed to a shop. The driver said he heard a humm under the truck while in idle and said it sounds like the tranny, Differential, or the transfer case. You guys know everything about these trucks.. I'll get a code off it in a day or two, but does anyone have any thoughts??

[jrobers]

I have about 113k miles, swapped the radiator 90k. Never seen any mix or junk in my tranny.

[smj999smj]

I would think it would be the differential making noise at idle. Even the transfer case is a far stretch unless you have an LE model. Knowing the code might help.

[jrobers]

Thanks for the reply. Once I get the codes I'll let you know. I take my pathy to an Acura dealership. I get a family rate on everything that can't be beat

[jrobers]

The code is P0340. I think it's a cam shaft sensor. Dealer wants 260 to replace.

[smj999smj]

The price isn't out of line. A genuine Nissan sensor MSRP's for about $115, but you can get them online from an online dealer for around $85. I don't recommend aftermarket cam sensors, but they run about $50. There are two cam sensors, one on the back side of each cylinder head. I believe P0340 is the "straight" sensor, which is on the back of the right bank, or passenger side, cylinder head. It's held in with a single, 10MM head bolt. It's a tight squeeze back there, but if you can get your hands back there, you could do it yourself and save some money.

[blink32]

Having just swapped out my sensor what worked well for me was to remove the engine cover and intake up to the throttle body then basically bear hug the engine and reach around each side to unbolt the sensor and pull it out. This gave me two hands to deal with unbolting it and pulling the sensor. I'm sure you could get by without removing the portion of the intake but mine was non-stock. The infamous "green connector" on the sensor was not cooperating so I ended up pulling the sensor then removing the connector. The main wiring harness runs almost directly over the sensor but there is enough room to get the sensor out.

I would recommend going OEM or at-least not using Beck Arnley as your parts supplier. In this case everything looked physically correct but either the replacement o-rings were undersized and/or the o-ring channel in the sensor was a smaller diameter than OE causing the o-ring to not have as much contact with the opening walls and the sensor to not feel snug when inserted. Even after swapping the original o-rings for the replacements it wasn't how I desired it. This is something I am now monitoring for any oil leaks or seepage.

[jrobers]

Ok so I had them replace the sensor and replace the fluid in the front and rear dif, and transfer box. Shouldn't need any work for some time. Only paid 216$