SES, VDC OFF, SLIP ON, LOSS OF POWER.. HELP PLEASE!!

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Noahbody
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SES, VDC OFF, SLIP ON, LOSS OF POWER.. HELP PLEASE!!

Postby Noahbody » Wed Apr 27, 2016 5:55 am

I bought a 2005 Path SE YESTERDAY from a Private Seller.. Drove about 22 miles home with no issues. After making it home and heading to autozone to get some extras, the Service engine light soon light came on, VDC off light came on, Slip light came on, and the car only moved at idle speed!!
:x

I Have searched this forum up and down to find no one with the same issue.

88k miles

Pulled codes, P0463, P1122 X2, P0507 X2 not sure if this has anything to do with it but it might help

The biggest problem is the LOSS OF POWER. Has anybody heard of this?

This vehicle is for my wife! Love this vehicle but sad we spent a boat load of money to buy a dud :cry:

PLEASE HELP


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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Wed Apr 27, 2016 3:30 pm

Well, 2005 was the first year of this model and 05/06 models tend to be the most troublesome, but, it may not be the end of the world! Your symptoms and codes stored make sense. First of all, when there is an engine management issue, the traction control and vehicle dynamic control systems are disabled, which is why those particular warning lights are "on."

The P0463 is a common code caused by a faulty fuel sending unit, which isn't the cause of your drivability concerns. To correct that, the fuel tank must be dropped and the fuel sending unit replaced.

The P1122 code references the throttle actuator, which is built into the throttle body. Your vehicle has throttle by wire, meaning you don't have the traditional throttle cable connecting the gas pedal to the throttle body. You throttle position sensor, throttle plate actuator and throttle body are all in one, non-serviceable assembly. Possible causes for your code include a bad throttle actuator, poor connection or a possible shorted or open circuit in the throttle actuator circuit.

The P0507 code is a code for the idle air volume control. If the vehicle had the battery disconnected or go dead before you purchased the vehicle, this may be your problem. You should have the codes erased and an idle air volume relearn procedure performed, which may fix the P0507 and P1122 codes and the subsequent drivability issues and traction control/VDC warning lights.

If the symptoms return, then the throttle actuator is likely your problem, but to be 100% sure, one would have to follow the diagnostic procedure for that code in the factory service manual. You can download that for free at various sites; we have a download here, somewhere, NissanHelp.com has chapter downloads in their "Knowledge Base" section (you'll want the engine control "EC" chapter) and Nico Club's site has full service manual downloads.

The throttle actuator is about $560 through online site's like CourtesyParts.com or NissanPartsDeal.com. However, Rockauto.com has a "return and rebuild" service through A1 Cardone for $80 that would be more "wallet friendly." The idle air volume relearn procedure would need to be performed, again, after the installation of a new or rebuilt throttle body. This procedure can be done manually, but it's a bit tricky to get complete due to the parameters that need to be present for the test to do so; it's much easier to do with a capable scan tool.

Something else you should look into, which has nothing to do with your current problems, is the radiator. The transmission cooler inside the lower radiator tank has been known to fail on the original, factory-installed, radiators, causing cross-contamination issues between the engine coolant and trans fluid...and often damaging the transmission. There are two methods to address this if it hasn't been done so, already. The best way, in my opinion, is to replace the radiator; aftermarket options can be had for under $100 and name brands usually fall in the $100-$120 range. The other option is "the bypass method." North American R51 Pathfinders have an auxiliary trans cooler mounted in front of the A/C condenser. Simply re-routing the trans cooler lines will allow you to bypass the radiator's integral cooler and rely solely on the auxiliary cooler, which does a pretty good job at doing just that! What you do lose is the ability of the radiator's cooler to warm the fluid up quicker and maintain the fluid in the optimal range, plus sacrifices some additional cooling ability if needed in extreme conditions.

If you are going to loading her heavy, towing or just want a better ride, take a look at the rear coil springs and see if air bags are installed. A common upgrade on these vehicles is adding Air Lift 1000 air bags (an easy, effective and inexpensive upgrade) and replacing the rear shocks with Bilstein HD shocks.

Hope you get it all sorted out and we're here if you have any other problems!

Noahbody
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Postby Noahbody » Wed Apr 27, 2016 3:38 pm

GREAT INFO! I Will be taking it to the shop today and will repost when complete.

I will look into this radiator issue and make sure it is addressed, don't want a failing "tranny" either.....

I appreciate your help!

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Wed Apr 27, 2016 3:54 pm

I forget to mention there is a way to see if you have the original, factory radiator installed. If it is, there should be a rectangular sticker on the top, driver's side of the radiator tank that says "Calsonic" and have a part number. Part numbers 21400-EA215, -EA200 and -EA265 are the numbers usually found on the original radiators that can be prone to failure. That number was replaced by 21400-9CA2E, so, if you have that number, it was replaced with a Nissan replacement radiator, however, some of those early -9CA2E radiators have also been reported as failing, so that's not always a guarantee. You may want to Carfax your vehicle to get some history on it. If the radiator was replaced in 2010 or later, I wouldn't be concerned. The failure has been known to occur on 2005-2010 models, with most of them in the first three years of the model. FYI, Nissan radiators also have "NISSAN" molded into the top tank on the passenger side. If you have no sticker on the top tank and "NISSAN" is not molded into the tank, you likely have an aftermarket replacement. Most of the aftermarket replacements are made in China and so far they have proven reliable. I have seen one Denso radiator develop a small crack and leak on the bottom tank. Specta Premium is a popular choice and I have not heard of any problems with them. Stillen has all-aluminum radiators available for $350.

Noahbody
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Throttle Body

Postby Noahbody » Thu Apr 28, 2016 5:58 am

The Verdict.

After limping the vehicle to The K.A.R. Shop, in Gilbert, Arizona... Kris (shop owner) called to let me know that a piece of TAPE that was cover a hole in the air intake boot was now covering the throttle body. This was making the motor think it was revving to high (sliding on ice) cause it to go into slip mode.

The previous owner has "No Idea" what was wrong with it.

$90 part without tape fixed the problem.

Has a defective Oil Pressure switch and Fuel Sending unit.

IS this a sufficient radiator?

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT CU2807

I appreciate the input and i hope my post finds someone who is in need!

We love the New to us Vehicle

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Thu Apr 28, 2016 9:20 am

I lot of people have used the Spectra Premium radiator and I haven't heard any bad reviews, yet. I put a $92 radiator I found on Ebay in my 2006 about four years ago and a Koyorad in my 2008 about a year ago and both are doing fine and fit just like OEM. The only difference I noticed with the Ebay sourced radiator was that the thread pitch was different for the petcock, but, since it came with a new one, anyway, it wasn't an issue.


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