As the title says I am going to rip into the engine and replace the tensioner that is warn. I have looked at the boards and got mixed reviews. What parts do I need and what parts are optional? Do the chains need to be replaced or is it just a good idea?
A parts list would be fantastic so that I don't have to run back to the parts store mid job.
Thanks,
Any write ups on how to make my life easier once I start?
Need items needed for timing tensioner replacement
Moderator: volvite
Well, it all depends on which way you are going about it. I'm assuming you have the common "upper timing chain whine?" If so, you should have, at the very least, the ring gear stopper tool, Kent-Moore J-48761. You'll need this to get the cam gear bolts torqued to spec and, if you don't have air tools, get the crank bolt out and in. If you don't have the stopper tool, you will need to do additional work, namely, removing the upper plenum and valve covers, so you can put a wrench on the cams to hold them in place when you remove/install the cam bolts.
As far as the other "special tool," Kent-Moore J-50246, you can get away without it. You will need stopper pins or similar tool to hold the tensioner plunger down. To press the tensioner shoes onto the plunger, I use Channel-lock pliers with plastic, Robo-grip pliers covers to prevent marring the plastic shoe, but, using the Channel-locks and a soft rag would work, as well.
Next, the tensioner doesn't really get "worn," rather, the poorly stamped, upper timing chain links cut through the tensioner shoes. You don't need to replace the entire tensioners, just the plastic shoes. If you do replace the entire upper tensioner assembly, you will also need to remove the rear cover assembly, which adds a lot more work and probably some seals.
Another thing is you need to decide is whether you just want to do the basic repair, as outlined in Nissan TSB NTB09-128, available for download here:
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/local_li ... 0&keyid=43
...or, do you want to add-on while you are in there? If you have high mileage, it would make sense to replace the water pump, thermostat, and primary timing chain and/or primary chain tensioner. As far as the guides, you typically don't see any wear on them that would require replacement of them, unless something broke. If you have your original radiator, still, it would be a good time to replace that while you are in there. You may also want to replace the serpentine belt and tensioner.
Another thing you'll need to decide is if you want to use genuine Nissan parts or aftermarket? If you go aftermarket, Rockauto.com has several different timing sets with various numbers of parts. Of course, there is always Ebay, but you want to make sure you get quality parts.
If you take a look at the Nissan TSB linked above, it will give you the part numbers and quantity to do the basic repair. The only change I would make is that instead of getting the ThreeBond sealant, I would go with Permatex Ultra Grey Rigid High Torque sealant #82195 and a caulk gun. You will be laying down a lot of sealant on the front cover before you install it and the caulk gun will make it much easier to apply it, not to mention the Ultra Grey is every bit as good as the original, grey, Nissan sealant from the factory. It's great stuff and you can usually pick it up at your local parts store. It looks like this:
https://www.zoro.com/permatex-rtv-silic ... lsrc=aw.ds
You'll also want a few cans of brake cleaner to clean the surfaces of oil. You'll also want to get anti-freeze. I always liked the genuine Nissan green coolant, which is actually Pentosin Pentafrost A2 green antifreeze concentrate; I found the best price for this on Ebay and I mix with distilled water from Walmart. You can also upgrade to Nissan blue, also made by Pentosin, which comes pre-mixed. As I said, that's my preference, but any "works with all colors" or conventional green antifreeze will work just fine.
You'll need 5.5 quarts of 5W30 engine oil, of course.
As far as the other "special tool," Kent-Moore J-50246, you can get away without it. You will need stopper pins or similar tool to hold the tensioner plunger down. To press the tensioner shoes onto the plunger, I use Channel-lock pliers with plastic, Robo-grip pliers covers to prevent marring the plastic shoe, but, using the Channel-locks and a soft rag would work, as well.
Next, the tensioner doesn't really get "worn," rather, the poorly stamped, upper timing chain links cut through the tensioner shoes. You don't need to replace the entire tensioners, just the plastic shoes. If you do replace the entire upper tensioner assembly, you will also need to remove the rear cover assembly, which adds a lot more work and probably some seals.
Another thing is you need to decide is whether you just want to do the basic repair, as outlined in Nissan TSB NTB09-128, available for download here:
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/local_li ... 0&keyid=43
...or, do you want to add-on while you are in there? If you have high mileage, it would make sense to replace the water pump, thermostat, and primary timing chain and/or primary chain tensioner. As far as the guides, you typically don't see any wear on them that would require replacement of them, unless something broke. If you have your original radiator, still, it would be a good time to replace that while you are in there. You may also want to replace the serpentine belt and tensioner.
Another thing you'll need to decide is if you want to use genuine Nissan parts or aftermarket? If you go aftermarket, Rockauto.com has several different timing sets with various numbers of parts. Of course, there is always Ebay, but you want to make sure you get quality parts.
If you take a look at the Nissan TSB linked above, it will give you the part numbers and quantity to do the basic repair. The only change I would make is that instead of getting the ThreeBond sealant, I would go with Permatex Ultra Grey Rigid High Torque sealant #82195 and a caulk gun. You will be laying down a lot of sealant on the front cover before you install it and the caulk gun will make it much easier to apply it, not to mention the Ultra Grey is every bit as good as the original, grey, Nissan sealant from the factory. It's great stuff and you can usually pick it up at your local parts store. It looks like this:
https://www.zoro.com/permatex-rtv-silic ... lsrc=aw.ds
You'll also want a few cans of brake cleaner to clean the surfaces of oil. You'll also want to get anti-freeze. I always liked the genuine Nissan green coolant, which is actually Pentosin Pentafrost A2 green antifreeze concentrate; I found the best price for this on Ebay and I mix with distilled water from Walmart. You can also upgrade to Nissan blue, also made by Pentosin, which comes pre-mixed. As I said, that's my preference, but any "works with all colors" or conventional green antifreeze will work just fine.
You'll need 5.5 quarts of 5W30 engine oil, of course.
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