I've been digging around online for some info on installing one of these on my 07 Pathfinder. I found a post on another forum with a few different setups, but i'm still not totally clear on a couple of things.
Here is thread i'm referring to: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f11/ ... nfo-60175/
I purchased almost the same items as the person posting in that thread:
Autometer 2640 Z Trans. Gauge 2 1/16"
Autometer Short Style Sending Unit (part # 2259)
Autometer Metric Adapter M10-1.0 to 1/8" NPT (part # 2265)
I couldn't really find any information about the test port, on the Pathfinder trans, but figured it's the same thing as the Frontier.
What type of fluid loss can i expect if I open that thing, to mate the sending unit into? What type of torque should I use? Teflon tape, thread sealant (if so what do you suggest for the thread sealant) or both? The adapter comes with a washer, but i don't think i see one on the test port bolt.
It's a newly installed, reman unit with fresh Matic S in it, just for reference. I'm pretty handy with the electronics part, just not so much on the transmission part. I plan on swinging by the dealer to pick up some Matic S, but i'm not to sure what i'm in for, when i open it.
If anyone has done a similar job and can speak to it, that'd help me a bunch.
Thanks!
Any tips on installing a trans temp gauge? 07 Pathfinder
Moderator: volvite
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jiggster1974
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 5:55 pm
- Location: Lafayette, LA
You'll only lose a very small amount of fluid as long as it's not running when you take it out. You may not even need to add any. If you want to avoid going to the dealer and over-spending for Nissan-matic "S" ATF, just go to Walmart or your local auto parts store and get a quart of Castrol Transmax Import Multi-vehicle ATF; it's the same thing. Teflon tape is fine; if you want to use sealant, use Loctite 510 anaerobic sealant. If you don't need a washer, then don't use it. As far as the torque spec, I don't know exactly, but I'm taking a guess of around 10 ft/lbs, as an oil pressure switch has a similar sized fitting and they are torqued at 9-12 ft/lbs.
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jiggster1974
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 5:55 pm
- Location: Lafayette, LA
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jiggster1974
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 5:55 pm
- Location: Lafayette, LA
Completed the install
I just wanted to followup with some info on the Trans temp gauge install.
I was able to do it in about 2 1/2 hours, with little trouble. I started with installing the adapter and short sender first. When i removed the test port bolt, it had a rubber o-ring, which I reused, instead of the copper crush washer that came with the adapter.
I used the permatex anaerobic thread sealer on both parts. I lost about 8 oz of fluid, when I removed the original bolt. I made sure everything was tight. From under the truck, I attached the sender wire (some 18 gauge stuff I picked up from Auto Zone for about 7 bucks) and then ran the wire through a 6 foot length of cable sleeve or nylon loom (whatever it's called), taped that to the end of a wire coat hanger and weaved it through to the top of the engine bay. I ended up having to relocate it after starting the truck, because about an inch of it was super close to one of the cats. I ended up running behind one of the heat shields and it's fine now. I then tied it off to the existing loom near the top of the firewall, ran it though more loom and all the way to the drivers side firewall opening and under the dash. Tie wrapped it where needed and used electrical tape to join the looms together.
I already have an aftermarket stereo, so it was just a matter of splicing into the switched 12v. Mounting the gauge was super simple.
I did notice that it comes up to temp after about 15 minutes of driving. It never went higher than 165F in stop and go city traffic and on the hwy, it stayed around 160. I wasn't towing anything and have the Nissan Value Advantage rad, not bypassed. The temp seemed very stable. I would like to use a heat gun and measure the pan temp, to see if they are close. No leaks yet and it's a pretty cool looking addition.
Thanks again for the feedback. I was a little hesitant about using the test port (stripping the port and fluid loss etc), but it ended up be a pretty simple job.
Thanks again for the suggestions!
I was able to do it in about 2 1/2 hours, with little trouble. I started with installing the adapter and short sender first. When i removed the test port bolt, it had a rubber o-ring, which I reused, instead of the copper crush washer that came with the adapter.
I used the permatex anaerobic thread sealer on both parts. I lost about 8 oz of fluid, when I removed the original bolt. I made sure everything was tight. From under the truck, I attached the sender wire (some 18 gauge stuff I picked up from Auto Zone for about 7 bucks) and then ran the wire through a 6 foot length of cable sleeve or nylon loom (whatever it's called), taped that to the end of a wire coat hanger and weaved it through to the top of the engine bay. I ended up having to relocate it after starting the truck, because about an inch of it was super close to one of the cats. I ended up running behind one of the heat shields and it's fine now. I then tied it off to the existing loom near the top of the firewall, ran it though more loom and all the way to the drivers side firewall opening and under the dash. Tie wrapped it where needed and used electrical tape to join the looms together.
I already have an aftermarket stereo, so it was just a matter of splicing into the switched 12v. Mounting the gauge was super simple.
I did notice that it comes up to temp after about 15 minutes of driving. It never went higher than 165F in stop and go city traffic and on the hwy, it stayed around 160. I wasn't towing anything and have the Nissan Value Advantage rad, not bypassed. The temp seemed very stable. I would like to use a heat gun and measure the pan temp, to see if they are close. No leaks yet and it's a pretty cool looking addition.
Thanks again for the feedback. I was a little hesitant about using the test port (stripping the port and fluid loss etc), but it ended up be a pretty simple job.
Thanks again for the suggestions!
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