Just bought and 08 yesterday. When I drove the car off the dealer lot, the only light that showed was the tire pressure light. After getting home and then starting back up again. I saw the service engine, vdc off, and slip lights on along with the tire pressure light that had already been there. I did some quick googling and tried the gas cap thing... didn't work. Brake feel good and I heard no low pad indicator squeal from low pads but I have not checked the brake fluid level yet(wife has car at work right now). I went to AZ and had codes pulled last night and it threw out a code for the camshaft position sensor. This morning when my wife left the vdc/slip lights did not come on but SEL remained. After another stop somewhere for about an hour, upon startup the vdc/slip light still did not show up. Her next stop was about 20 minutes and upon this startup, the lights did show up.
I have not tried driving straight for 10 minutes to see if it would reset. Does it really require driving 10 minutes or a few 100 ft like I have read some places? If I take it to a shop with a good scan tool, can they reset it and the effect will be the same as resetting it by driving?
As far as the camshaft pos sensor, are these usually bad if you get the code or is it typically something else causing the code?
Just got 2008 PF LE 2WD, dash lights after 2nd startup
Moderator: volvite
Cam position sensor failures are not uncommon (there are two of them and the trouble code would help identify which one it is), When the ECM detects an engine management issue, it disables the traction control system, which is probably why you are seeing the VDC/Slip warning lights.
The TPMS warning light is likely a bad TPMS sensor battery (assuming the tire pressures are good). They tend to last about 6-7 years and if they are all original to the vehicle, your best bet would be to replace them all with a set of Dorman direct-fit TPMS sensors which you can get at Rockauto.com for around $40 each. They have a lifetime warranty and are half the price of Nissan sensors and work just as well. You have to remove the tires to install them, so, it's not a bad idea to replace them if and when you are due for new tires. The sensors do need to be registered, which requires a TPMS trigger tool to wake them up. Most tire shops and many auto repair shops can program them, but they can be done manually, too, using the TPMS diagnostic connector near the OBD II connector. There are YouTube vids that show how to do this. You can also check for TPMS codes with the same connector by using a grounding sequence.
The TPMS warning light is likely a bad TPMS sensor battery (assuming the tire pressures are good). They tend to last about 6-7 years and if they are all original to the vehicle, your best bet would be to replace them all with a set of Dorman direct-fit TPMS sensors which you can get at Rockauto.com for around $40 each. They have a lifetime warranty and are half the price of Nissan sensors and work just as well. You have to remove the tires to install them, so, it's not a bad idea to replace them if and when you are due for new tires. The sensors do need to be registered, which requires a TPMS trigger tool to wake them up. Most tire shops and many auto repair shops can program them, but they can be done manually, too, using the TPMS diagnostic connector near the OBD II connector. There are YouTube vids that show how to do this. You can also check for TPMS codes with the same connector by using a grounding sequence.
Ok so I will not worry about the TPMS right now if it is likely just a drained battery in one or more of the tires wells.
The truck was started up last night and of course the vdc/slip was off. Drove for about close to 15 minutes and at one point when I went stopped then accelerated around a curve, I felt a sudden momentary loss of power/acceleration, sort of like a downshift feeling. It was just a quick thing and I didn't feel it happen after that on the way home. Does this sound like the camshaft sensor or steering angle sensor? The code that was spit out the other night was PO340.
The truck was started up last night and of course the vdc/slip was off. Drove for about close to 15 minutes and at one point when I went stopped then accelerated around a curve, I felt a sudden momentary loss of power/acceleration, sort of like a downshift feeling. It was just a quick thing and I didn't feel it happen after that on the way home. Does this sound like the camshaft sensor or steering angle sensor? The code that was spit out the other night was PO340.
The P0340 code is a Bank 1 cam position sensor code. That would be the one at the back of the cylinder head (that is the hardest to get to, of course) on the right side of the vehicle (passenger side in the US). That would be Nissan #: 23731-6J90B. It's likely your problem, although it could be a harness issue or several other things and you would have to do the diagnostic steps to be positive. That said, 95% of the time or better it's the sensor, itself, and likely the cause of your problems.
A bad steering position sensor would set a "C" code and very unlikely to be the cause of your problem. Very rarely do they fail and if it was faulty, I would doubt that it would result in the problem you are having. The biggest issue we see with the steering position sensor is when an alignment is performed and it needs to be relearned or when the battery is disconnected for a long period of time and it needs to be relearned.
A bad steering position sensor would set a "C" code and very unlikely to be the cause of your problem. Very rarely do they fail and if it was faulty, I would doubt that it would result in the problem you are having. The biggest issue we see with the steering position sensor is when an alignment is performed and it needs to be relearned or when the battery is disconnected for a long period of time and it needs to be relearned.
smj999smj wrote:The P0340 code is a Bank 1 cam position sensor code. That would be the one at the back of the cylinder head (that is the hardest to get to, of course) on the right side of the vehicle (passenger side in the US). That would be Nissan #: 23731-6J90B. It's likely your problem, although it could be a harness issue or several other things and you would have to do the diagnostic steps to be positive. That said, 95% of the time or better it's the sensor, itself, and likely the cause of your problems.
A bad steering position sensor would set a "C" code and very unlikely to be the cause of your problem. Very rarely do they fail and if it was faulty, I would doubt that it would result in the problem you are having. The biggest issue we see with the steering position sensor is when an alignment is performed and it needs to be relearned or when the battery is disconnected for a long period of time and it needs to be relearned.
Thanks. I meant to mention that the vdc off/slip light came on right after I felt that momentary loss of power feeling. Today, again after start up this morning vdc light was not showing and after about 10 minutes of driving, I was either coming to a stop and the car went dead or I had just stopped and the car went dead. I'm not sure of the exact point it went dead. VDC/Slip came on again after start up.
This truck also sees like it has somewhat of a hard startup. Most times you don't just hit the key and it cranks... you can hear it try to crank and turn over 5-8 times before it cranks up. It didn't do that all day yesterday though, it went through a stretch where it startup normally after just two or three audible cranks. Not sure if this is related to anything with the camshaft pos sensor but I thought I would mention it. That said, does that little info help to further your opinion that it is most likely that camshaft pos sensor? I will try to order one for cheaper, Advance Auto Parts if like $80. Does it matter much where I get one? Hope it's not one of those parts that it's much more advisable to get oem. Btw, I tried to do the auto active test for the ipdm where you push door light button 10 times... I think I passed it but I am unsure if what I heard was the compressor clutch properly clicking. Within the cycle of things that are supposed to happen during the test, I heard 5 very light tick/click sounds and then I heard 5 loud clicks followed by the fans coming on. Were those 5 loud clicks the compressor?
Would you consider this video a good enough how to for changing that sensor? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEEawyTiaCU
Hard starting is a sign of a faulty cam position sensor. Remember, the sensor is used by the ECM to inform it where that particular camshaft is so that the ECM can control the fuel injectors and spark timing, so any stalling, not running, no or hard starts, misfiring can all be signs of a faulty cam sensor. I would not recommend using an aftermarket sensor, unless you can find a Hitachi or Mitsubishi part, which are the OE part suppliers to Nissan. The video is good at giving you an idea of how to get to the sensor. You usually have to lie across the engine and reach behind the head. Remove the 10MM head bolt and try not to drop it! Leave the harness attached to the sensor. Twist and pull the sensor to remove it and pull it up with the harness. Unplug the old sensor and plug in the new; lube the "O" seal on the sensor with a little vaseline or engine oil. Use the harness to lower the sensor behind the head. Install the sensor and bolt. Be thankful if you don't have fat hands and arms like me!
Yeah it is without a doubt showing all the signs of faulty CMS. I tried unsucessfully to locate one at my local salvage yards for a few bucks just to plug it in and see if it would cure it. Time to either pay Nissan $140 with tax or order from one of the sites you mentioned and hope it gets here quickly... scarry driving my kid around with the thought of it dying while in fast moving traffic.
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