oil change Castrol titanium full syn w/ Bosch Distance Plus
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FindThePath06
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- Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2013 12:10 pm
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oil change Castrol titanium full syn w/ Bosch Distance Plus
06 path w/ 64k miles. Immediately I noticed a smoother running engine. The temp doesn't seem to get as hot as it normally was. Mpg went up, stronger pick up and idling seems to be perfect w cold start ups. Very impressed w that combination. Hope that helps someone switching to full syn and I also changed the air intake filter because that was dirty too
Most everyone here on the forum runs synthetic of some sort or another.
I've been running it in all of my vehicles (at least the ones I plan to keep) for over 15 years now. Have never regretted it. My 98 civic with over 300k kms on it was a testament to this. Prior to being written off in a traffic accident, I checked the compression which was at factory levels across all cylinders. Crazy.
I've been running it in all of my vehicles (at least the ones I plan to keep) for over 15 years now. Have never regretted it. My 98 civic with over 300k kms on it was a testament to this. Prior to being written off in a traffic accident, I checked the compression which was at factory levels across all cylinders. Crazy.
I don't know if I'll sign off on all those advantages in a passenger vehicle....but it certainly will give you longer service intervals and engine life. I would say the air filter was more responsible for most of the performance improvements listed above.
Synthetic makes a BIG difference when you're really pushing your engines though. I run a fleet of equipment for my biz and by switching to a semi-synthetic Castrol product about six years ago, we've extended OCI and engine life of all equipment. V12 engines that run at WOT all day have gone from 9,000-10,000 hour life to 12,000-14,000 hours. These are $100k+ engines so it makes a huge difference on the bottom line.
Synthetic makes a BIG difference when you're really pushing your engines though. I run a fleet of equipment for my biz and by switching to a semi-synthetic Castrol product about six years ago, we've extended OCI and engine life of all equipment. V12 engines that run at WOT all day have gone from 9,000-10,000 hour life to 12,000-14,000 hours. These are $100k+ engines so it makes a huge difference on the bottom line.
I've heard a lot of VQ-series engine owners say that their engines run smoother or quieter with synthetic oil. Personally, I go with the manufacturer recommended oil changes and if those intervals are over 5000 miles, I go with synthetic. I use Walmart's house brand, Syntech full-synthetic, which is made by Royal-Shell, the makers of Rotella. Right now it's going for about $18 for a 5-quart jug. Another lower cost synthetic is NAPA's synthetic oil, which I hear is made by Valvoline. I saw recently that they had an offer of 5 quarts of their synthetic plus a NAPA silver oil filter for $19.99. The Bosch Distance Plus oil filter is actually the Purolator One oil filter in blue paint; it's a good filter. I usually buy genuine Nissan oil filters by the case as I have a few that all take the same part number. I also buy the oil pan drain plug gaskets in bulk on Ebay; they also work on the trans drain plugs. You can get them in bags of 20, 50, 100, etc.
I've been running the NAPA synthetic and Gold filter for many years. The Gold filter is a premium WIX as you probably know. They routinely have this oil on sale for $3.50/qt. or 5 qts plus a gold filter for $23. I had an oil analysis done around 50k miles running this oil at 7,500 mile interval and it was in superb shape. Now at 90k miles, I did another oil sample with an 8,500 interval a couple months back but keep forgetting to mail it in.smj999smj wrote:Another lower cost synthetic is NAPA's synthetic oil, which I hear is made by Valvoline. I saw recently that they had an offer of 5 quarts of their synthetic plus a NAPA silver oil filter for $19.99.
Of course I'd pay double for oil if it kept me out of a walmart.
Since the cost of synthetic has dropped over the past year or so, to me it doesn't make much sense to go with a synthetic-blend because the price difference is so little. Also with synthetic-blends, it's not listed how much of the oil is "synthetic" and how much is "conventional" oil. Is it 50% synthetic...20%.....5%? We don't know because the manufacturer doesn't tell us.
I haven't heard of any issues with the Mobil 1 oil filters.
I haven't heard of any issues with the Mobil 1 oil filters.
I switch from cheep Valvoline 5/30 to Moblie 1 full syn about 500 miles ago for the first time. I noticed a major improvement in cold start and with engine rpm being really smooth. I was told that I can go 10k miles before I need it changed. Is this true? If I did I would change the filter out at every 3 just for the piece of mind.
Capt. 10k or more should be fine.
I think its atrocious that the factories recommend 3k-5k changes for oil. That was 30 years ago when it was recommended with the crappy gas, crappy oil that broke down easily, and how open the engine was for dirt.
New engines, new oils can go and go plus its less pollution and waste.
Any synthetic and new filter can go 10k easy before a change.
I think its atrocious that the factories recommend 3k-5k changes for oil. That was 30 years ago when it was recommended with the crappy gas, crappy oil that broke down easily, and how open the engine was for dirt.
New engines, new oils can go and go plus its less pollution and waste.
Any synthetic and new filter can go 10k easy before a change.
Agree, no reason to change the filter before 10k either as long as you're not buying one of those $2 cheapies. Nissan calls for 7,500 mile oil changes on Dino oil.....so clearly syn can go longer. I just don't recommend extended OCI's during your warranty as it just opens up the possibility to have problems IF something catastrophic were to happen. I also recommend having a used oil analysis when going to extended intervals. This should give you a good idea of if there's anything strange going on with your engine AND the condition of the oil after normal use. Just a precaution and $35 well spent.
I once knew some engineers at the world's largest engine test lab. They recommended 1K miles per quart based on acidity and contamination...rather than viscosity breakdown or fuel dilution or anything else.
The really correct answer is to change your oil when conditions require it, as we do with large diesels (daily oil samples tested for viscosity and fuel dilution, monthly or quarterly to see what's happening inside the engine, magnetic particle detectors to tell you when **** is about to get real) - but that's not worth the cost for a 5qt sump.
While 3K is too funny and "every three months" is just insulting, it's important to remember that you are changing oil well before it becomes problematic, not just before. Viscosity does break down, and lower viscosity = wear.
Have yet to see anything beat Mobil 1 synthetic in a serious test...
The really correct answer is to change your oil when conditions require it, as we do with large diesels (daily oil samples tested for viscosity and fuel dilution, monthly or quarterly to see what's happening inside the engine, magnetic particle detectors to tell you when **** is about to get real) - but that's not worth the cost for a 5qt sump.
While 3K is too funny and "every three months" is just insulting, it's important to remember that you are changing oil well before it becomes problematic, not just before. Viscosity does break down, and lower viscosity = wear.
Have yet to see anything beat Mobil 1 synthetic in a serious test...
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