Coolant - how hot?

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jspitz
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Coolant - how hot?

Postby jspitz » Wed Jun 12, 2013 6:57 am

I've been running a ScanGaugeII for several years and recently have seen higher than normal (I think) coolant temps. From memory, coolant while driving was usually ~193-206 F. Recently it seems to climb to about 215, and occasionally hits 218 momentarily. It will also drop to the low 200s, but I haven't seen it drop to the 190s lately. Behavior seems roughly the same at speeds anywhere between 30 and 75. At idle, temps drop to just North of 200.

Yesterday, I tried running the rear heat on a 63 degree morning to see if it worked - it didn't, and to see if it had any effect (+/-) on coolant temp - no dice there either.

Coolant was replaced about 16 months / 21k miles ago with genuine Nissan coolant and there is some in the reserve tank.

The coolant temp gauge seems to have 2 positions - "cold", and about 40% up from cold.

Any thoughts? Coolant burp? Stuck thermostat? I plan to replace the rad soon since I'm probably pushing my luck on the trans fluid intermixing at 111k miles.

Thanks.


DanJetta
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Postby DanJetta » Wed Jun 12, 2013 2:09 pm

It does sound like you have air in the lines. I would try burping it. The process is wonderfully simple on the Pathfinder.

Though I don't know exactly what temp the coolant should be, I can tell you that my temp gauge usually sits exactly between the 1/4 and 1/2 way point.

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oreogaborio
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Postby oreogaborio » Wed Jul 03, 2013 8:15 am

my bully dog usually reads about 195*

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doctahjones
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Postby doctahjones » Wed Jul 03, 2013 8:31 am

oreogaborio wrote:my bully dog usually reads about 195*

same with mine, usually around 190-195. don't think i've ever seen it go over 200, -ever-.

in the winter months it's usually more around the 178-185 range.

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jspitz
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Postby jspitz » Wed Jul 03, 2013 8:57 am

I poked around a little more and found that the overflow tank was above the minimum, but below the max. I also found traces of a leak on the inside driver-side of the radiator and some minor puddling in the skid plate. So far no more than maybe a drop on the garage floor. Not sure if the leak is in the rad, the hose, or the hose fitting.

I topped off the rad with maybe 8-12 oz of the Nissan green coolant and distilled water and did the burping procedure. To my dismay, the rad and the balance of the overflow tank took nearly a gallon once I got some of the air out of the lines.

Temps are now pretty consistently 193-198 once warm. I don't think I've seen anything North of 200.

Car is actually at the dealer now for a diag on the leak, a quote on the rad replacement (as a preventative trans-saving measure if it isn't the source of the leak), and a general once-over.

Edit: Got a call from the dealer - the leak is in the rad - $998 to replace.

Thanks for the input.

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:06 am

wow that is steep for the rad replacement.

I was pulling my 28' travel trailer home this weekend, and the temp got all the way up to 199 on my Superchips. Cut the AC for a mile or 2 and it dropped to 196.

t

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Postby DanJetta » Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:47 am

Unfortunately, that price sounds about right coming from the dealer. The radiator is around $600 from them and the manual calls for 3.5 hrs labor (which is longer than it took me in my driveway with a $20 Walmart tool set). With coolant, shop supplies and tax, you're at about a grand.

If you're handy, it's not a difficult swap and the OEM radiator is much cheaper ($450) if you buy it from 1stAAANissanParts.com (which is Mike Barney Nissan in NY).

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jspitz
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Postby jspitz » Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:58 am

Yeah - doing this myself is something I would tackle if I had any free time. I'm lucky these days to just get the cars washed :)

I don't like the thousand dollar price tag, but felt the price was about "right" given the price via courtesyparts.com and the labor rate. So far this dealer has been fairly decent with me. I also contemplated an aftermarket rad, but iirc the Griffin is about the same price or a little higher, and a couple guys on thenewx forum had some issues with some non-OEM rads. I'm hoping that at 112k, I can spend a grand, keep driving it until 180-200k and not worry about the rad going or killing my trans.

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jspitz
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Postby jspitz » Wed Jul 03, 2013 12:02 pm

199 as your kinda-sorta-max is a good data point. Good to know that these vehicles will keep the engine about the same temp even with that kind of load!
disallow wrote:wow that is steep for the rad replacement.

I was pulling my 28' travel trailer home this weekend, and the temp got all the way up to 199 on my Superchips. Cut the AC for a mile or 2 and it dropped to 196.

t

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Wed Jul 03, 2013 12:05 pm

I do seem to recall seeing 205 once when pulling. There were a few more hills.

Glad I didn't have a tranny temp gauge then, I just don't want to know! :)

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Wed Jul 03, 2013 12:08 pm

DanJetta wrote:Unfortunately, that price sounds about right coming from the dealer. The radiator is around $600 from them and the manual calls for 3.5 hrs labor (which is longer than it took me in my driveway with a $20 Walmart tool set). With coolant, shop supplies and tax, you're at about a grand.

If you're handy, it's not a difficult swap and the OEM radiator is much cheaper ($450) if you buy it from 1stAAANissanParts.com (which is Mike Barney Nissan in NY).
I agree with you, the dealer price sounds about right.

My comment was referencing the comparison of going aftermarket and doing it myself, or even finding a good non-dealer mechanic to install.

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Wed Jul 03, 2013 8:41 pm

I would go aftermarket. You can get a Spectra Premium radiator online for about $160. The $92 "made in China" radiator I got from Parts Express on E-bay is still going strong without any problems; last time I checked they were selling it for $74.

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dawgn86
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Postby dawgn86 » Fri Jul 05, 2013 6:05 am

jspitz wrote:I poked around a little more and found that the overflow tank was above the minimum, but below the max. I also found traces of a leak on the inside driver-side of the radiator and some minor puddling in the skid plate. So far no more than maybe a drop on the garage floor. Not sure if the leak is in the rad, the hose, or the hose fitting.

I topped off the rad with maybe 8-12 oz of the Nissan green coolant and distilled water and did the burping procedure. To my dismay, the rad and the balance of the overflow tank took nearly a gallon once I got some of the air out of the lines.

Temps are now pretty consistently 193-198 once warm. I don't think I've seen anything North of 200.

Car is actually at the dealer now for a diag on the leak, a quote on the rad replacement (as a preventative trans-saving measure if it isn't the source of the leak), and a general once-over.

Edit: Got a call from the dealer - the leak is in the rad - $998 to replace.

Thanks for the input.
JS

Can you or one of the folks here describe how to do the burping procedure when changing coolant?

Thanks

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Fri Jul 05, 2013 7:12 am

burping involves running the engine with the rad cap off. As air bubbles escape and move to the high spots in the system, more coolant is required to be put in.

Some have recommended ramps under the front wheels to raise the level of the radiator. Those pesky rear coolant lines are techincally higher than the rad, and can sometimes be a bugger to dearate.

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dawgn86
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Postby dawgn86 » Fri Jul 05, 2013 7:16 am

sounds good...

seems you fill the system back up just to the top of the radiator, let the engine run, maybe squeeze the top rad hose some?..top off fluid as required?


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