2008 Path V6 4x4 bypass question

[Cruzin1a]

I know this has been beat to death, however..

I have an 08 SE V6 AT 94K miles. I'm in the process of an extensive tune up including fluids. I came here for guidance and found plenty of that. However I've read about 75% of the famous bypass thread dedicated to the tranny problem. However, I haven't been able to find a specific guide to the 08 bypass which is different than the earlier models due to the tranny cooler being on the drivers side. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

[cgray]

On my 06 it was really easy. I followed the sketch in the transmission fail thread and switched 2 tubes to avoid having fluid enter the radiator. It was a really easy fix that I probably spent more time getting the skid plates off than actually doing the fix.

[skinny2]

I posted a similar request awhile back and I don't think anyone has done it. Several of us with '08 models have just replaced the radiator which is probably the best option. While it appears most folks don't have any problems with the bypass, I just don't like the idea particularly with the way you'll have to by-pass the '08+. If you crawl under you should be able to figure it out pretty easily. The fittings are opposite from the '05-'07 and will require some additional hose/fittings as the original cooler lines don't just hook right up on the '08+.

[Cruzin1a]

Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated. I've skimmed over several of the threads and posts concerning the radiator upgrade because I was interested in the bypass. I'll go back and look for some info on the radiator upgrade. If you don't mind me asking, what did you get for a replacement radiator and what was the cost?

Thanks again guys, greatly appreciated.

[skinny2]

There's a couple threads on the radiator swap as well. I've also not seen anyone swap a radiator on an '08+ with anything but an OEM. There are some relatively cheap aftermarkets in the $100-$200 range but they all seem to have the same part number for '05-'12. That tells me it won't bolt/connect straight up like the OEM radiator. I think I paid in the $450 range for an OEM unit and it was a very straight forward swap.

[Cruzin1a]

I'll assume the new radiator's address the problem. I'll look into it, thank you.

[skinny2]

I'll assume the new radiator's address the problem.

Allegedly they're "updated". If anything it should be good for another five years or so....it seems to be time that breaks them down more than anything.