Door seals

Upgrades and modifications to Trims, Seats, Carpets, Roof Racks, Panels, Dashboard, Bumpers, Rocksliders, Paint, Decals...

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NVSteve
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Postby NVSteve » Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:01 pm

volvite wrote:Steve,

I hate the wind noise. We are having some rain and wind here in Idaho as well, and when it's a cross wind it is so loud up front. It drives me crazy. I can't believe that the new seal you purchased didn't last even a year.
Well, the new seal does still work better than the old. The only place I get air is along the top edge of the door, so I think I will work on beefing up the seal thickness in only that area. I can deal with it in town, but it drives me nuts on long trips.


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eieio
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Postby eieio » Mon Mar 26, 2012 3:21 pm

NVSteve wrote:I was working with 3/8" backer rod as that seems the perfect size. I wonder if I should try 1/4" instead.
window screen spline material might work
it comes in different thicknesses

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NVSteve
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Postby NVSteve » Tue Mar 27, 2012 8:24 am

Hmm, good call. I'll have to check that out when I'm at the store. The reason I was gaga for backer rod is because it is really resilient stuff. The closed cell design really makes it retain its shape far better than most other things/options out there. Plus, it can be squished quite a bit, but just pops right back to original size.

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Clay350
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Postby Clay350 » Fri Nov 16, 2012 6:54 am

To me it almost seems like there is a clearance issue as well. At certain times I know I can litterally hear the outside from the rear drivers side door. Im almost thinking of putting 3m two sided sape under the seal for just a little more standoff?

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NVSteve
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Postby NVSteve » Fri Nov 16, 2012 9:10 am

Clay350 wrote:To me it almost seems like there is a clearance issue as well. At certain times I know I can litterally hear the outside from the rear drivers side door. Im almost thinking of putting 3m two sided sape under the seal for just a little more standoff?
You wouldn't be able to put it directly under the seal because the seal itself gets inserted into a channel of sorts to hold it in place. I did try adding a bit of foam weatherstripping to the door itself, thinking along the same lines as yourself, but it didn't work very well. I removed that, and now I have a partially sticky door and a seal that once again is not working.

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volvite
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Postby volvite » Sat Nov 17, 2012 10:11 pm

I got the email saying this thread had a new comment. I had hope Steve you had figured out a good replacement, but your comment that your new seal is just as bad as the old seal is horrible news. :(

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NVSteve
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Postby NVSteve » Sun Nov 18, 2012 5:04 pm

volvite wrote:I had hope Steve you had figured out a good replacement, (
I'm still hoping I can figure out something that will work.

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Problem Solved

Postby krush » Wed Jan 23, 2013 6:58 pm

I just pick up 3/8"OD x 1/4"ID latex tubing from home-depot.
going to cut the OEM Rubber sealer in half at the bottom
straighten it out to insert a fishing rod with lube to pull the tubing thru.
Just need to find some way to mend the rubber back up.
Maybe just use a soldering iron and melt it together. Or some kind of rubber glue. I will post pic if i can figure out how to LOL.

The Latex is softer then plastic tubing and holds up better in the cold with no cracking. And you can pull it thru with out it break!!!!!!

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NVSteve
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Re: Problem Solved

Postby NVSteve » Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:00 am

krush wrote:I just pick up 3/8"OD x 1/4"ID latex tubing from home-depot.
going to cut the OEM Rubber sealer in half at the bottom
straighten it out to insert a fishing rod with lube to pull the tubing thru.
Just need to find some way to mend the rubber back up.
Maybe just use a soldering iron and melt it together. Or some kind of rubber glue. I will post pic if i can figure out how to LOL.

The Latex is softer then plastic tubing and holds up better in the cold with no cracking. And you can pull it thru with out it break!!!!!!
Hmmm, good idea. Let us know if it works. Too damned cold & icy here to mess around with it, otherwise I would. I use a similar, if not the same size, tubing in conjunction with my kayak straps. I think mine is fairly thick walled though because it always rebounds into a circle. I have thinner tubing on one of my shower doors, and I have to replace it once every couple of years because it becomes permanently squashed. I like your idea though. It should work, in theory. You planning on doing this soon?

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NVSteve
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Re: Problem Solved

Postby NVSteve » Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:07 am

krush wrote:I just pick up 3/8"OD x 1/4"ID latex tubing from home-depot.
going to cut the OEM Rubber sealer in half at the bottom
straighten it out to insert a fishing rod with lube to pull the tubing thru.
Just need to find some way to mend the rubber back up.
You don't really need to cut it in half. Just make a hole large enough to insert the tubing (a number of smaller holes already exist) and work it through. I had a problem when I tried to feed the foam through because the foam kept wanting to grab onto every part of the door seal as I was pulling it through. I don't think you would have any problem feeding tubing through. I'd probably just keep a soapy rag nearby to keep wiping it on the tubing as it was being pulled through.

Damn, now I really want to do this. Like NOW.

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volvite
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Postby volvite » Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:14 am

If this works, I'll be doing this modification...When it warms up.

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Postby krush » Fri Jan 25, 2013 11:18 am

Sorry guys can to the mod till it warms up a bit, temp is hitting in the minus in jersey. Even in the garage with the heat its F-ing cold...........

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NVSteve
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Re: Problem Solved

Postby NVSteve » Sat Apr 06, 2013 3:58 pm

krush wrote:I just pick up 3/8"OD x 1/4"ID latex tubing from home-depot.
going to cut the OEM Rubber sealer in half at the bottom
straighten it out to insert a fishing rod with lube to pull the tubing thru.
Just need to find some way to mend the rubber back up.
Maybe just use a soldering iron and melt it together. Or some kind of rubber glue. I will post pic if i can figure out how to LOL.

The Latex is softer then plastic tubing and holds up better in the cold with no cracking. And you can pull it thru with out it break!!!!!!
Okay, I tried this today. IT WILL NOT WORK. I picked up the exact tubing mentioned above and installed it in the upper 40" or so of the seal. Even using dishwashing soap for a lube, I had to work in 20" sections. Fortunately, all I had to do was snip the outer part of the seal & instant access. Anyway, the door will close, but it won't close flush. It sticks out a few mm and is very obvious. I highly doubt that a 1/4" bit of tubing will work either as it is too small, with far too much wiggle room inside the seal. Bummer, now I'm not sure what to try next.

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eieio
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Postby eieio » Sat Apr 06, 2013 6:00 pm

flexible aquarium air line tubing might work, or the "spline" material for retaining window screens in their frames (comes in several different diameters)

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NVSteve
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Postby NVSteve » Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:22 am

eieio wrote:flexible aquarium air line tubing might work, or the "spline" material for retaining window screens in their frames (comes in several different diameters)
I'll have to take a look at the store at some point. Thin tubing might do the trick, but it still has to be stiff enough to feed through the door seal, which has proven to be quite a pain.


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