I have read and read and can find numerous times where the 285/65/18 has been mounted with little rubbing, which can be eliminated by the melt mod. Would the melt mod be sufficient to run the 275/70/18 tire? I understand it's .5" larger then the 285/65/18 but also .5" thinner which might help in turning scenarios....
Has anyone successfully mounted this size tire without hacking up the bumpers or metal parts? I would assume there would be ZERO issues with this size in the rear as there is plenty of room.
All of which would be using 2" of suspension lift.
What's needed to fit 275/70/18 (33.2")?
Moderator: volvite
Here's one with a 2" lift. I don't think he needed to modify anything, as he shouldn't have being thinner.
NmexMAX wrote:Do you know the back spacing and offset?akley88 wrote:its on a aftermarket 8" wheel. only reason i ask is cause i got a good price offer on the tires. i might try and and do any mods that are needed just incase other people want to try it.
I know there were minimal mods required to fit 33.2" on the PRG/OME kit that rragpaoa has installed.
Here's his with 33.2" tires, on OEM wheels. 275-70 18's. So, yours will be wider, but it all depends on back spacing for the insude rubbing. I'm also assuming you'll need to either modify or remove your mud guards.
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kevinthefro
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Tue Aug 27, 2013 4:14 pm
- Location: Torrance, CA
Yes there are zero issues in the rear.
Yes, you have to hack the bumper and fender to stop the rubbing in the front. The tires just barely brush the frame.
Do it. Diameter is king.
This is with a 2" lift:
On the bumper:
Remove and discard the little front air dam things.
Remove three screws from the bottom that hold the wheel liner.
Push the wheel liner forward a couple of inches.
Put the screws back in using other preexisting holes:
Cut away the plastic tabs
This picture is just before the tabs were cut off:
On the fender:
Remove the mud flaps and discard.
Remove the screws from the wheel liner and move out of the way.
Bend the bottom lip of the fender up with pliers - this is easy, the metal is thin and weak.
Then drill a new hole in the bent part and screw the liner back in place.
It's invisible after that:
Use a heat gun to melt the parts of the wheel liner that still rub.
Yes, you have to hack the bumper and fender to stop the rubbing in the front. The tires just barely brush the frame.
Do it. Diameter is king.
This is with a 2" lift:
On the bumper:
Remove and discard the little front air dam things.
Remove three screws from the bottom that hold the wheel liner.
Push the wheel liner forward a couple of inches.
Put the screws back in using other preexisting holes:
Cut away the plastic tabs
This picture is just before the tabs were cut off:
On the fender:
Remove the mud flaps and discard.
Remove the screws from the wheel liner and move out of the way.
Bend the bottom lip of the fender up with pliers - this is easy, the metal is thin and weak.
Then drill a new hole in the bent part and screw the liner back in place.
It's invisible after that:
Use a heat gun to melt the parts of the wheel liner that still rub.
Kevinthefro, this is awesome!!! How was it after you did all that? I like the detailed set of instructions you provided. I also like that nothing is permanent in the process besides the trimming of the bottom bumper, which could always be remedied in case you had to return to stock form.
Thanks a bunch. I have been looking into new tires and this might be the route I go.
This should be a sticky!!!
Thanks a bunch. I have been looking into new tires and this might be the route I go.
This should be a sticky!!!
kevinthefro wrote:Yes there are zero issues in the rear.
Yes, you have to hack the bumper and fender to stop the rubbing in the front. The tires just barely brush the frame.
Do it. Diameter is king.
This is with a 2" lift:
On the bumper:
Remove and discard the little front air dam things.
Remove three screws from the bottom that hold the wheel liner.
Push the wheel liner forward a couple of inches.
Put the screws back in using other preexisting holes:
Cut away the plastic tabs
This picture is just before the tabs were cut off:
On the fender:
Remove the mud flaps and discard.
Remove the screws from the wheel liner and move out of the way.
Bend the bottom lip of the fender up with pliers - this is easy, the metal is thin and weak.
Then drill a new hole in the bent part and screw the liner back in place.
It's invisible after that:
Use a heat gun to melt the parts of the wheel liner that still rub.
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kevinthefro
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Tue Aug 27, 2013 4:14 pm
- Location: Torrance, CA
Thanks. I always appreciate people who post how-tos and I try to do the same.
The edges of the tires will rub the wheel liners with the wheels turned and a couple of inches of compression - caused by cornering on the street fast enough to get significant body roll. And the tires will hit the top of the fenders under full compression, like time I was going 50 mph down a dirt road and hit a rise and dip I got a bit of air. But you have to be driving pretty stupid for those things to happen.
Wider tires are probably better for mud, but diameter makes going over rocks effortless, and we have more rocks than mud in the desert out here.
The edges of the tires will rub the wheel liners with the wheels turned and a couple of inches of compression - caused by cornering on the street fast enough to get significant body roll. And the tires will hit the top of the fenders under full compression, like time I was going 50 mph down a dirt road and hit a rise and dip I got a bit of air. But you have to be driving pretty stupid for those things to happen.
Wider tires are probably better for mud, but diameter makes going over rocks effortless, and we have more rocks than mud in the desert out here.
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