Rock auto has a ton of stuff for the R51 including drilled and vented stuff.
What is everyone using for front brakes?
Mine are glazed, time to do them.
Thanks.
Rotor and Pad Recomendations?
Moderator: volvite
I recently installed the power stop drilled and vented front brakes on my 2006 and I'm not really impressed with them. The stopping distance seems to have increased. But the reason I bought them was due to warping rotors so as long as they stay true I'll buy them again. One thought I had is to use the rotors but buy different pads.
I use Akebono Pro ACT Ceramics or Raybestos Professional Series Advanced Technology Ceramics. I won't say they improved over the factory braking, which is a bit subpar, IMO, but they are every bit as good as the factory ceramic pads, which are either Hitachi or Akebono. I had low speed squeak issues with the OE Hitachi pads, but never any problems with the Akebono Pro ACT ceramics, which I have on two R51s.
Avoid the Wearever Platinum's from Advance Auto Parts. I purchased them and at first they seemed great, but after a few thousand miles the extreme amounts of brake dust is very annoying. I have went back to the auto parts store and they just tell me the lifetime warranty does not cover against brake dust. So now I am stuck with them until I decide to purchase new brake pads. These brake pads are very quiet and brake is great. The only major problem I have is the brake dust.
Thanks for all the input, even though I didn't ask haha. I was actually wondering the same. Don't need to replace either yet (dealer machined rotors and replaced pads in Jan), but I like to plan ahead. I've always spent a bit more on pads and only replaced my rotors on my 240SX, and loved them, but would never expect to half my braking distance in the Pathfinder. I'm not much concerned with braking distance (keep it stock I guess), but do wish to improve heat dissipation so when I do replace them, I'm going with Stoptech slotted.
Wagner recently introduced their OEX pads which are specifically designed for pick-up trucks, SUVs and CUVs. Supposedly, they offer shorter stopping distances, low dust and longer life. I'll find out as I just ordered a set for my 2008 SE for $41, including shipping and no tax, from an Ebay seller. Rockauto currently has them, as well. They'll be replacing the set of Akebono Pro ACT ceramics that are currently installed and are at the "warning squealer."
mileage to replace front rotors?
I took my pathfinder to my local repair shop thinking it might be time for a brake job (front), but they are saying I also need to replace the rotors because they are below the minimum clearance to machine them. I have just under 47k miles on the vehicle. This seems early to be replacing the rotors, no? What are others experiences on this? I am thinking of just trying these Wagner OEx pads and replacing them myself without machining the rotors. What are your thoughts? Do you guys know the minimum required thickness for the rotors?
47,000 miles is pretty low for them to be under spec for machining unless the pads were metal to metal. I would have them prove it before giving the okay with the new rotors as the factory rotors have quite a bit of meat on them. I would probably just scuff them up with some sand paper and replace the pads.
I installed the Wagner OEx pads on the front of the 2008, this morning. The previous Akebono Pro ACT Ceramics were pretty shot with almost 90000 miles on them! You could see where the lining was starting to separate from the backing pad in a couple of places and there was some heat cracking. One pad was well worn into the warning squealer and another wasn't far behind, but the other two pads actually still had about 1/4 of their lining left. The new Wagner pads fit perfectly and had all of the hardware. I only had a chance for a quick ride to help break them in, so it's hard to really give an opinion on them being so new. They sure do look funky, though!
I installed the Wagner OEx pads on the front of the 2008, this morning. The previous Akebono Pro ACT Ceramics were pretty shot with almost 90000 miles on them! You could see where the lining was starting to separate from the backing pad in a couple of places and there was some heat cracking. One pad was well worn into the warning squealer and another wasn't far behind, but the other two pads actually still had about 1/4 of their lining left. The new Wagner pads fit perfectly and had all of the hardware. I only had a chance for a quick ride to help break them in, so it's hard to really give an opinion on them being so new. They sure do look funky, though!
Thanks for the responses. Pathy, are those numbers the lower limit? I thought I saw on an older post (after making my initial post here) that 26mm was the standard thickness and 24.5 was the minimum limit. Smj, definitely had not gone metal to metal. There's actually still a few mm of pad left, and I haven't noticed vibrations or any indications of rotor damage. They wrote on the inspection that they were glazed (is this a big deal?) and said the measurements were both around 25.5mm but that 26mm was the minimum. So is 26mm the standard thickness or the minimum thickness? I found the video elpeede posted a few years ago. Does anyone else have a good diy guide or video if I decide to change the pads myself? I've never done it before.
You can treat the "glazing" by taking some sand paper and scuffing up the surface. It's always best to put new pads on a clean or recently machined surface, but I still can't believe the rotors are worn down below minimum specs in just 45,000 miles.
Replacing the pads, only, is pretty simple. Remove the wheel. Remove the lower bolts of the caliper (14MM) and swing the caliper up and then push it back so it slides off of the caliper bracket. Rest the caliper on top of the rotor. Remove the wire clips that go between the pads, if you have them, remove the pads and the hardware (if you have new hardware to put in). Snap the new abutment clips into the caliper bracket. Lube the ends of the brake pads that engage the abutment clips with moly grease designed for brakes or "copperslip," a grease that contains copper and used for high temperature applications. Also, spread a little grease on the contact areas of the back of the pad (avoid getting any grease on the pad lining, itself, or on the rotor surface and clean with brake cleaner if you do). Most quality new pads have new shims installed on the back, so you shouldn't need to re-use the old ones. Take one of the old pads and sit it inside the caliper and use a brake compress tool or a large C-clamp to push the pistons back into the caliper.
Install the pads in the caliper bracket and make sure they are seated against the rotor. Slide the caliper back into the caliper mount but leave in the upright position. Here's the tricky part: hold the pads in place with one hand in insert the wire clips into the holes on the edge of the pads. Ones the clips are installed, swing the caliper down and around the pads while holding the pads as long as possible. If you release too soon, the clips will pop out and you'll have to do it again. Once the caliper is in place, install the lower bolt and tighten. Pump the brake pedal a few times to allow the piston to take out the slack.
Remember to use a quality pad. The OE pads are ceramic, so it's best to stick with ceramic pads. Raybestos Professional series ceramics or Raybestos Professional series Advanced Technology, Akebono Pro ACT Ceramics and the Wagner OEx pads all come with new hardware and clips and are good choices. The OEx pads are new but initial impression is good on them. Akebono is an OE supplier of brakes to Nissan and are very similar in performance as the original Hitachi pads.
Autozone.com has free repair guides at their site and I'm sure there is more than a few YouTube vids on the subject.
Replacing the pads, only, is pretty simple. Remove the wheel. Remove the lower bolts of the caliper (14MM) and swing the caliper up and then push it back so it slides off of the caliper bracket. Rest the caliper on top of the rotor. Remove the wire clips that go between the pads, if you have them, remove the pads and the hardware (if you have new hardware to put in). Snap the new abutment clips into the caliper bracket. Lube the ends of the brake pads that engage the abutment clips with moly grease designed for brakes or "copperslip," a grease that contains copper and used for high temperature applications. Also, spread a little grease on the contact areas of the back of the pad (avoid getting any grease on the pad lining, itself, or on the rotor surface and clean with brake cleaner if you do). Most quality new pads have new shims installed on the back, so you shouldn't need to re-use the old ones. Take one of the old pads and sit it inside the caliper and use a brake compress tool or a large C-clamp to push the pistons back into the caliper.
Install the pads in the caliper bracket and make sure they are seated against the rotor. Slide the caliper back into the caliper mount but leave in the upright position. Here's the tricky part: hold the pads in place with one hand in insert the wire clips into the holes on the edge of the pads. Ones the clips are installed, swing the caliper down and around the pads while holding the pads as long as possible. If you release too soon, the clips will pop out and you'll have to do it again. Once the caliper is in place, install the lower bolt and tighten. Pump the brake pedal a few times to allow the piston to take out the slack.
Remember to use a quality pad. The OE pads are ceramic, so it's best to stick with ceramic pads. Raybestos Professional series ceramics or Raybestos Professional series Advanced Technology, Akebono Pro ACT Ceramics and the Wagner OEx pads all come with new hardware and clips and are good choices. The OEx pads are new but initial impression is good on them. Akebono is an OE supplier of brakes to Nissan and are very similar in performance as the original Hitachi pads.
Autozone.com has free repair guides at their site and I'm sure there is more than a few YouTube vids on the subject.
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