Codes read...1 fixed...4 to go. 2005 Pathy

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gilldawg79
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:50 am
Location: Alabama

Codes read...1 fixed...4 to go. 2005 Pathy

Postby gilldawg79 » Wed Feb 09, 2011 8:43 pm

I have a 2005 Pathy-101,015 miles. I got my code reader in today and I replaced my Fuel Sending Unit. I got one code cleared (P0463) by doing that. Codes remaining: P1148 (Closed Loop Bank 1--A/F sensor?) P1272 (Air Fuel Ratio Sensor -- Same thing???) P0171 (System too lean Bank 1 --A/F sensor ???) P1031 (Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Meter -- A/F Sensor????)

All of those look related to the Air Flow Sensor (Nissan PN 22693). So, would it be best to just try the "Bank 1" first since it is mentioned in the codes, or replace both? I will eventually get around to replacing both of them, but at the moment, I just want to get the codes cleared and start from scratch again. Reading the descriptions on the code lookup pages it looks like there could be other problems related, but most all point to a faulty sensor. It seems I also read somewhere about a TSB on reflashing the ECM after replacing the sensor.....Any input? Is there some sort of tests I can run with a meter to see if they are both bad, or just one or as a comparison to each other? I just don't want to get into shotgunning parts onto the pathy that I may not need.

On a side note....The fuel sending unit went bad on my vehicle around 38,000 miles. I missed the bumper to bumper warranty, and then missed the recall by miles. During the life of the bad sending unit, my SES light would come on and go off occassionally with every new tank of fuel. Around 90k miles it just continued to stay on so, it looks like these other codes have only been on for around 10k miles (I know I should have checked sooner. It was only later on that I realized I could change that sender out as easily as I did and get it as cheap as I did.....I was quoted ~400.00 at the dealer for parts and labor, that's why I waited so long). That being said, the vehicle has been an awesome SUV, and I want it to last a long time and am ready to start fixing some stuff.

As for vehicle performance it seems to run fine. MPG's have gone down a little, but nothing major really....I can get 20+ driving 55 on way to work (20 miles one way). I changed plugs about 1000 miles ago and it has been maintained well (oil, filter, tranny flushed at 57K, tranny bypassed at 80K,air filters, brakes, etc. etc.)

Which side of the vehicle is "Bank 1" and Bank 2" ?

Thanks!!

Jimmy


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08Datsun
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Location: Santa Barbara, CA

Postby 08Datsun » Wed Feb 09, 2011 9:41 pm

It's been a couple of years, but my Maxima(VQ30) was giving me similar codes about running lean. It also had a fluctuating idle. I didn't have any code come up about the A/F sensor. However, that is what finally failed completely. This put the engine into a limp home mode and wouldn't rev over 2300 rpm(difficult in a stick). That one component cleared everything up. I believe(from hazy memory here) there was a way to check the A/F sensor with a multi-meter to see if it was bad.

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Tech
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Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 2:46 pm

Postby Tech » Thu Feb 10, 2011 9:57 pm

I wouldn't bother trying to check it unless you have an oscilliscope or live data scan tool. The specs when looking at voltage are quite wide and the measuring tool makes a big difference.

you can try to give it a clean with electrical or throttle body cleaner. Esp. if you're running a k&N or CAI.

Odds are you need a MAF (there is only one). I wouldn't recommend anything other than factory. From memory I think it's a 7s000. Check for intake leaks and stuff before you do it. Should be sensor only, no body. You may also need a tamper-proof torx tool. t-20 i think


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