Towing

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ibeasinger
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Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:36 am

Towing

Postby ibeasinger » Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:43 am

I have a 2011 Pathfinder LE V-6 I'm really wanting to get a travel trailer and do a little traveling but I'm getting so many mixed messages about whether this vehicle can pull more than a tiny utility trailer, etc.

I'm thinking about something in the 17 - 19 foot range .. one trailer I've been looking at has unloaded weight of 2977, hitch weight of 297, carrying capacity of 2423. The length is 19'7"

Is this a ridiculous pipe dream or what?

Thanks!!!


thehumphries
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Location: Jefferson, WI

Postby thehumphries » Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:08 am

Here is a good post on towing, what they tow, and towing big:

http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic. ... ght=towing

ibeasinger
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Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:36 am

Thanks ..

Postby ibeasinger » Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:14 am

I saw all his towing "stuff" but I'm still left wondering specifically about tow weights and towing a travel trailer.

NYPathfinder
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Postby NYPathfinder » Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:42 pm

did you look at the rest of the thread? there pics of path's towing all sorts of things. I've pulled a 6500lb 24ft boat without an issue several times. 8x12 utility trailer loaded with 4 quads 1k miles also with no issues. You should't have any problems with a pulling 2500lbs.

ibeasinger
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Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:36 am

Postby ibeasinger » Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:53 pm

Thanks!

I know that the PF is rated for 6000 lbs. A travel travel is between 3000-3500 and I'm guessing to be on the safe side another 600 -700 incidental weight.

Hmmm .. sounds like it might make going through any hills or mountains a little "challenging" .. as in .. not making it.

I appreciate you taking your time to answer!

D

NYPathfinder
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Postby NYPathfinder » Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:04 pm

ibeasinger wrote:Thanks!

I know that the PF is rated for 6000 lbs. A travel travel is between 3000-3500 and I'm guessing to be on the safe side another 600 -700 incidental weight.

Hmmm .. sounds like it might make going through any hills or mountains a little "challenging" .. as in .. not making it.

I appreciate you taking your time to answer!

D
why do you think you wont make it? i drove from long island n.y. to the most upper part of PA with 4 quads on a 8x12 utility trailer, along with 3 other people totaling probly 8-900lbs plus a weeks worth of food/clothing/gear each in the back.. had no problems with hills or nething else.

skinny2
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Postby skinny2 » Mon Oct 03, 2011 6:54 pm

ibeasinger wrote:Thanks!

I know that the PF is rated for 6000 lbs. A travel travel is between 3000-3500 and I'm guessing to be on the safe side another 600 -700 incidental weight.

Hmmm .. sounds like it might make going through any hills or mountains a little "challenging" .. as in .. not making it.

D
How could you come to that conclusion? 8,000# maybe I would agree but 4,500# is beans. This thing pulls better than my last two V8 full-size trucks. Granted if I was going to do it on a regular basis or for long distances I would go with sway/weight distribution (recommended on any vehicle really) and airbags (already have them for other benefits).

CPLTECH
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Location: SW Ohio

Postby CPLTECH » Tue Oct 04, 2011 6:25 am

I have an early 2006 and the torq converter is not programmed to lock up in 4th, even on level highway. This affects mileage, too. Many have tried to calm my fears of overheating the trans and some tell me theirs does lock up. Does anyone know what year this was done?

ibeasinger
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Postby ibeasinger » Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:07 am

Skinny .. I think I'm "fretful" because I'm a newbie at the thought of traveling with something behind me, I'm afraid I won't be able to do it .. and worried about being an ol' granny hitting the road at this time in my life doing something so "radical." So ... I'm trying to research everything and my analytical AND skeerdy-kat mentally is trying to focus on all the reasons why I shouldn't or can't do it!

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eieio
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Postby eieio » Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:36 am

CPLTECH wrote:I have an early 2006 and the torq converter is not programmed to lock up in 4th, even on level highway.

what is your source of information for this? :?
CPLTECH wrote: Many have tried to calm my fears of overheating the trans and some tell me theirs does lock up.
what is their source of information for this? :?
CPLTECH wrote:Does anyone know what year this was done?
what will be the source of information for this? :?
i'm really interested in this subject, too, but really don't want to be influenced by conjecture
the facts, man, just the facts................. :)

Plngeek
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Location: Sacramento, CA

Postby Plngeek » Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:51 am

Alot depends on where you are and the terrain you would be towing in. I'm in the Sacramento Valley and was towing a 21ft travel trailer with my PF. My dry weight on the trailer was 4110lb (Skyline weighs each trailer coming off the line and puts a plaque on it), and I estimated I was around 5000 loaded. I never had a chance to weigh it though, so that is just a guess. Weight wasn't a problem, but what can get to be a problem and what you need to think about when looking at what other folks say they have towed is that a travel trailer is a big box that is taller and wider than the PF, so aerodynamics come in to play more than they would with a boat, or a flatbed with quads etc.

Having said that, I towed my trailer over 4000 miles including trips across some of the passes that we have around here and was able to keep up decent speeds (50-60) on them. The key I found to making it more comfortable was to quit chasing a specific speed, and just lock my mind into a specific gear and rpm and just keep to that, whatever speed it was. This saved any unnecessary shifting, and I found it only cost me about 5-10mph going up the hills.

Definitely do not expect great gas mileage (I was averaging around 9mpg when I hooked up), and your range between fillups will be no more than 160-190 miles, but with a good weight distributing hitch and anti-sway gear ( I used the Reese Strait-Line setup), you should be fine at the size/weights you are talking about. Of course if you enjoy the trailer, you may look at moving up in vehicles next time you purchase (I drive an F-150 now), but there is no reason not to go forward with the trailer now if it is something you want to do.

Oh yeah... and the camping side of me is curious what trailer you're looking at. We're thinking of upgrading ours to a 24ft'r, so I'm always curious to see what brands folks are looking at and why.

skinny2
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Postby skinny2 » Tue Oct 04, 2011 12:48 pm

ibeasinger wrote:Skinny .. I think I'm "fretful" because I'm a newbie at the thought of traveling with something behind me, I'm afraid I won't be able to do it .. and worried about being an ol' granny hitting the road at this time in my life doing something so "radical." So ... I'm trying to research everything and my analytical AND skeerdy-kat mentally is trying to focus on all the reasons why I shouldn't or can't do it!
Ok well that makes more sense. Have you considered starting with something smaller and working your way up? Go with a used pop-up even and get a few trips under your belt towing and go from there. Are you comfortable driving a full-size pickup? Those will be more stable although I still recommend all the right tools. It's good you're thinking about this because I see a lot of vehicles with trailers in accidents and I have to wonder if it's lack of experience, inproper vehicle setup, or just driving crazy. I am very experienced at towing and won't make any excuses that my 1-ton makes everything seem easy, but the PF does a very good job if you stay within it's tolerances. From a power perspective it's fine. From a stability standpoint...it's always better to go bigger with the tow vehicle. It just comes down to taking your time and using the tool correctly.

ibeasinger
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Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:36 am

Postby ibeasinger » Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:07 pm

Well, I'd upgrade if I could but I just got the PF in December so it's mine for quite a while. Pop-ups? Nah .. I'm too old to rough it and I don't want to have to do all that "set up" everytime I want to stop. I plan on renting a similar sized trailer (17 - 19 ft) for a week and then spending a LOT of time in the Wally-World or Cabella's parking lot "practising." Then goin on a couple days trip to "practice" doing my thing! That's the best thing I can think to do!

CPLTECH
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Location: SW Ohio

Postby CPLTECH » Tue Oct 04, 2011 5:45 pm

eieio wrote:
CPLTECH wrote:I have an early 2006 and the torq converter is not programmed to lock up in 4th, even on level highway.

what is your source of information for this? :?
I was wondering if I should consider trading up to a newer model if shift/TC was modified from the earlier units, hence the question.

I did a little research myself, but information on this tranny is few and far between until I came across several articles written by Lance Wiggins from the ATRA on this Jatco re5r05a tranny. He was unable to give any suggestions when contacted. His articles describe several different TC units/sizes that depend on the Nissan model. So a Titan gets a larger one than a PF, etc. So maybe our PF does not have a gutsy TC to warrant lock-up in 4th? Someone was wondering if the trans could not handle the jerkiness that a trailer puts on the power train, hence the slush-o-matic in the recommended towing gear.

Go to page AT-34 of the service manual and it shows a “Lock-up Operation Condition Table” and 4th does not “Lock up” but rather will go into a “Slip lock-up”. 3rd & 5th will lock-up.

Lock-up Control
The torque converter clutch piston in the torque converter is engaged to eliminate torque converter slip to increase power transmission efficiency.
The torque converter clutch control valve operation is controlled by the torque converter clutch solenoid valve, which is controlled by a signal from TCM, and the torque converter clutch control valve engages or releases the torque converter clutch piston.
Lock-up Operation Condition Table

Slip Lock-up Control
In the slip region, the torque converter clutch solenoid current is controlled with the TCM to put it into the half-clutched state. This absorbs the engine torque fluctuation and lock-up operates from low speed.
This raises the fuel efficiency for 4th and 5th gears at both low speed and when the accelerator has a low degree of opening.

I tow a 20’ 3K# camper I have had 11 yr. A 93 Blazer got 13 towing, a 98 Tahoe got 11, and this PF with smaller motor & frame weight gets 11. Handles OK. I feel it could do better. I worry it will self-destruct, yet others tow big (29’ camper) with no ill effects. But that fellow in Canada has a job, I’m in a similar age bracket as the OP & I can ill afford repairs. Yet I hear of virtually no repairs to our PF trans other than the radiator caused problem. I replaced the radiator, so I’m OK in that area.

Another issue is that those aftermarket tuners do not adjust shift points & lock-up on the PF. What has Nissan done to make it so complicated or is it that Nissan is not as popular so not financially worth their time? I did ask a dealer serv dept if there was an upgraded program for the 2006. The answer was NO. I have not checked at any tranny shop.

CPLTECH
Posts: 222
Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2010 9:30 am
Location: SW Ohio

Postby CPLTECH » Fri Oct 07, 2011 9:04 am

I found this info from another site and uses a 2009 Serv Manual to explain (See end of that post)

http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46272
In 4th gear you get what Nissan calls "Slip Lock", looks to be modified version of full lock up that allows for a locked condition at low speed or small throttle open positions, but reverts to open quicker when in 4th or 5th gear for better torque multiplication.

Lock-up Control INFOID:0000000004064224
The torque converter clutch piston in the torque converter is engaged to eliminate torque converter slip to increase power transmission efficiency.
The torque converter clutch control valve operation is controlled by the torque converter clutch solenoid valve, which is controlled by a signal from TCM, and the torque converter clutch control valve engages or releases the torque converter clutch piston.
Lock-up Operation Condition Table
TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE CONTROL
Lock-up Control System Diagram
Lock-up Released
• In the lock-up released state, the torque converter clutch control valve is set into the unlocked state by the
torque converter clutch solenoid and the lock-up apply pressure is drained.
In this way, the torque converter clutch piston is not coupled.
Lock-up Applied
• In the lock-up applied state, the torque converter clutch control valve is set into the locked state by the torque converter clutch solenoid and lock-up apply pressure is generated. In this way, the torque converter clutch piston is pressed and coupled.
SMOOTH LOCK-UP CONTROL
OBH@/ / 02D
Select lever D position 3 position 2 position
Gear position 5 4 3 2
Lock-up × – × –
Slip lock-up × × – –
OBH@/ / 03D
TM-96
<FUNCTION> [5AT: RE5R05A]
A/T CONTROL SYSTEM
When shifting from the lock-up released state to the lock-up applied state, the current output to the torque converter clutch solenoid is controlled with the TCM. In this way, when shifting to the lock-up applied state, the torque converter clutch is temporarily set to the half-clutched state to reduce the shock.
Half-clutched State
• The current output from the TCM to the torque converter clutch solenoid is varied to gradually increase the torque converter clutch solenoid pressure.
In this way, the lock-up apply pressure gradually rises and while the torque converter clutch piston is put into half-clutched status, the torque converter clutch piston operating pressure is increased and the coupling is completed smoothly.
Slip Lock-up Control
• In the slip region, the torque converter clutch solenoid current is controlled with the TCM to put it into the half-clutched state. This absorbs the engine torque fluctuation and lock-up operates from low speed.
This raises the fuel efficiency for 4th and 5th gears at both low speed and when the accelerator has a low degree of opening.

Page 95, http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/xterra/2009_Xterra/TM.pdf


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