Changing Spark Plugs-Little Miss

[Joe Piro]

This is my third post about the '95 Pathfinder I bought at the auto auction a year ago.

When I bought it, it ran fine at speed but had a little engine miss at idle, for example at stop lights.
Right away I changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plug wires and oil and oil filter. Also I ran Techron fuel injector cleaner though it and continue to do so from time to time.

It runs much better now with only an occasional miss at idle.
I believe the next thing to do is to change the spark plugs. I would have done that sooner but have been real busy.

Is this the next step to address the miss?
Is there anything else you would suggest? The mileage is approaching 200,000 miles and I think it is also prudent to change the serpentine belt, but that will be another post if I run into anything unusual.

I am concerned about stripping threads in the head. So finally should I remove the plugs hot or cold. Do I need to treat with any penetrant before I try. Should I just leave them in (i have no idea when or if they have ever been changed) ?

Thank you,
Richard
1995 Pathfinder

[smj999smj]

It's best to change them with the engine cold. If available, compressed air can be used to blow the dirt out before you remove them. Rust penetrant won't hurt, but may not be necessary. Stick with NGK spark plugs!

[Joe Piro]

I noticed that there have been a lot of views of this post, but only one reply.
Does anyone else have any opinions or advice about the skip in the engine.... or how to smooth out the idle.

It might help if I clarify the year. I always thought it was a 94 because it had the older style body... I guess what you call the WD21.
In 95 they must have made the changes mid-year because mine hS 94 build date, but a 95 owners manual.

Thanks,
Richard
94-95 Pathfinder

[smj999smj]

86.5 through 95 were the WD21 series. The R50 series began in 96. If you still have the emissions certification label under the hood, it will tell you what year you have. It should also be on your vehicle registration.
Many of the older VG30's were set up a little on the lean side at idle from the factory, likely to help with emissions testing. The VG fuel injectors were also know to get dirty and cause a lean misfire. For such incidents, Nissan recommends a professional fuel injection cleaning, like those from 3M or BG Products were the fuel injection rail is fed directly off of a pressurized bottle of solvent like the one linked below:

http://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline- ... -product-4

[winndixie21]

My plugs had not been out in a long time, I used the compressed air to blow the crap out of the heads, I had hickory nut shells and you name it in them
it had been a squirrel haven for a couple of years.
To say the plugs was stuck was a under statement, I used PB Blaster and let soak , and I still thought they would strip the heads before coming out, but use lots of patience and loosen and tighten back and fourth , just don't horse them out if they are stuck.
Having the right tool for the rear plug on the drivers side will be a big help, because it is a little difficult to get to and just a plug wrench ratchet extension will not cut it.
Hopefully your plug wrench is still in the tire tool pouch that came with it.
My hands was sore from working the tool back and fourth and I will not even tell you the choice language it took. But then again they may just come out easy.
My air idle control is a little flakey on mine and it idles a little rough until it reach's operating temp, as does my buddies on his hardbody truck .