95 pathy sticky lifter?

[jonnythebeaver]

So I bought a 95 pathy for $675 recently. it has a passenger side exhaust leak and a tap that my mechanic friend said was a "sticky lifter." Shit, its got 356,000 miles on it! no shit, these things are TOUGH. So I have been reading ppl's opinions on how to reduce that annoying ticking. A can of "Engine Tune-Up," by Justic Brothers? Changing the oil? Changing the weight of oil? Changing the type (conv, synth)?

Men, before you answer this, understand that I am CHEAP. I only bought this truck bc the dude had to sell it and kept dropping the price. I want to get this thing as nice as possible for as little as possible for bragging rights. Help! I also need a mechanic to do the exhaust manifold leak if anyone has a recommendation for the portland, oregon area..

Thanks!!

[smj999smj]

Exhaust manifold leaks are common on the VG30E due to the exhaust studs breaking. Updated studs from Nissan are now available that are harder than the original studs and less prone to breakage. The end studs and center stud should be replaced and any other stud that is broken. The broken studs can sometimes be difficult to remove and must be carefully drilled out, so it is job that should be done by a professional.

As far as the lifter tap, usually replacement of the hydraulic lifters is what it takes to get rid of the tap. Sometimes people get lucky with additives or engine flushing, but most of the time not. As far as oil, you are best to stick with the manufacturer recommended 5W30.

[jonnythebeaver]

So the guy I bought it from told me he just tuned this thing up, so I never checked things out before I bought it.. So I drove it to the coast and stayed there at a buddies beach house for a few days, and while there I checked the air filter and found a 2" thick mouse nest in there, all pressed up against the filter. I cleaned it out and put it back, then the truck ran like shit. It didn't die, just hesitated horribly. I would shift, press on the gas pedal, and it would take like 5+ seconds to catch up, then it would surge like a MF. So to get it home, I wrapped a plastic bag around the air filter to replicate the poor air flow it had before and it ran fine. So now I have a plastic bag on my air filter. A mechanic said it the sensor will reset itself after a few days of driving, anyone ever hear of this?

Also, I bought a premium synthetic filter and mobile 1 synthetic "high mileage engine" 5w-30. Does that sound like a good idea to switch to synthetic? It says on the bottle it resists leaking/burning oil in worn engines...

Thanks

[smj999smj]

The ECM has a self-learning function that adjust itself to the driving conditions of the vehicle over time. So, the MAF doesn't reset; it's the ECM that gradually relearns. I would try disconnecting the negative cable of the battery, remove the bag you installed, remove the mass air flow sensor and clean it with MAS cleaner or electrical contact cleaner, reassemble and then see how it runs.

[jonnythebeaver]

ok, so I just changed the oil and replaced it with mobile 1 synthetic "high mileage," 5w30. I also used a higher quality, synthetic filter for faster, better flow. While doing that, I took the plastic bag off the air filter and disconnected the battery to reset the ECM. I also pulled all the plugs and cleaned them, put them back in (BTW, they were all in good shape but had mud in all the spark plug access ports, so I had to break it up and suck it out before I could remove each plug). I then reconnected the battery and fired it up. She runs better and the ECM reset trick seems to have worked (thank you smj999smj), it runs like a scalded ape! But that tick... as I assumed the tick is still there, maaaybe slightly reduced.

[smj999smj]

With 300,000 plus miles, I wouldn't be surprised if you needed to replace those lifters. They really aren't too bad to replace. Hardest part is taking off the upper plenum. The VG's are as tough as just about any gas engine out there!

[jonnythebeaver]

hell, I bought it just for the new tires, but I'm starting to think I will repair the lifter and exhaust manifold leak and drive this bitch until the wheels fall off!! Have any recommendations on a step-by-step with pictures for doing the lifter job? and is there anything else that should be replaced while I am in there?

Cheers

[smj999smj]

I would replace the valve cover gaskets since they have to be removed to get to the lifters. It's been awhile since I did one. IIRC, you remove the valve covers and I remember the lifters sit inside an aluminum casting bolted to the top. You use some mechanics wire and run it around the top of the lifters to keep them from falling out fo the casting when you lift it up. Autozone.com has free repair guides (only require you to register an e-mail address) that should have the R&R procedure and some pics. If you are going to be running it, make sure the timing belt is replaced unless you know that it's been done recently; this is an interferance engine.