Just got a 1990 XE Pathfinder and I need some help dealing the minor (I hope) issues it has.
During the test drive I noticed that in 4h there is a significant vibration at above 30mph. I figured that it must be a bad u-join or something in the front. What can I do to determine what the problem is exactly?
Second issue is that the auto trans is pretty sloppy. It shifts smoothly enough, but it seems to hold gears too long. Is that normal, or is it a big issue? I can live with it the way it is, but don't want it to get worse. I hope it can be helped by changing the fluid.
I also noticed on the drive back the faint smell of burning oil. How can I find the leak? Should I even do anything about it? Seems like a very small leak or else it would be making smoke and smelling strongly, right?
Lastly: I want to reset the car in terms of all the fluids. Obviously I'll change the engine oil, but I think I should also change the trans oil and oil in the transfer case and rear end. Can I do that stuff myself? I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I'm not sure if change the other fluids is as straightforward as the engine oil. Should I also change the coolant?
I'm really not very experienced in maintaining a truck, let alone one that is almost as old as I am, so I'd really appreciate the help. I really like this truck and want to make it last as long as I can.
Sorry for all the questions in one post, I'm quite new to forums.
1990 Path XE 4h Vibration and A Lot of Questions
Moderator: volvite
Welcome to the forums! The WD21 Pathfinders were a great vehicle! They were tough and reliable and had an 8-year model run, so there are plenty of parts still available, not including those that interchange with the D21 Hardbody pickups! The things they were not: 1) big on power and (2) good on gas! The one thing you may want to do if you have limited experience is have a reputable auto mechanic or shop do a thorough inspection. The $ spent can give you piece of mind or keep you from investing a ton of money into a serious problem you may have overlooked. They will also answer a lot of the questions you have already asked. That said:
If your vibration is only when 4WD is engaged, it would be a good idea to check the front driveshaft U-joints. Play in the joints can be easily checked by grabbing the shaft near the joints and moving them up and down and side to side. If there is play, you should be able to see it. If the joint bearings are rusted and binding, you may have to actually remove the shaft and work the joints back and forth by hand to check for any resistance in movement. Always mark the driveshaft alignment with the mounting flanges of the transfer case and differential pinion with paint or something appropriate prior to removal so you can bolt it up to the exact location.
There are a number of places known for oil leaks on VG engines. Burning oil smell can just be the result of spilled oil from the oil filter during an oil change. The filter is mounted right above the starter and a good amount of oil spills out during filter replacement. The oil sender is also in the same location, FYI, and it's not uncommon for them to leak. When servicing the oil filter, I got into the habit off placing rags below the filter prior to removal to catch the oil and keep as much as I could off of the vehicle.
The rear crank seal and the real oil pan lip seal are often sources of oil leaks. Evidence of this will be oil dripping from the bottom, front of the trans bellhousing.
Valve cover leakscan occur. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will help, but, if they don't, removal of the valve covers and replacement of the gaskets will be required. The left cover is obviously more difficult than the right bacause of the intake plenum sitting over it.
Front crank and/or cam seals can leak oil...especially the right bank cam seal. Usually when this leaks, you can see the oil if you look in the area just to the left of the timing cover (when standing in front of the engine). A leaking front crank seal will have oil dripping from the bottom of the lower timing belt cover. In order to replace these seals, you would have to remove the timing belt and cam/crank sprockets. BTW, that brings up another point: when was the last time the timing belt was replaced? It's a 60000 mile belt on your engine and the engine is interferance type, meaning it can bend valves if it breaks. So, if you don't know when it's been replaced, I would recommend replacing it ASAP. It's also recommend that you replace the front engine seals, tensioner pulley, water pump, thermostat and drive belts at the same time. Use quality parts!
Don't forget the transmission can leak, as well! Front and rear seals or the trans cooler hoses at the radiator can all leak. It's hard to comment on how your vehicle is shifting without being able to drive it myself. Under hard accelleration, they do hang a little bit before they shift. If you service the fluid, your best bet is to use one of the following: genuine Nissan Type "D" ATF, Valvoline Maxlife ATF or Castrol Multi-import ATF (unless you want to invest the big $$ for Amsoil or Redline synthetic). Avoid using "regular" ATF labeled Dexron III/Mercon as they have a thicker viscosity than the originally installed Dexron/Dexron II ATF and can lead to sticking in the valve body. I've been using Valvoline Maxlife on a number of applications and it's good stuff and about $18/gallon jug at Advance Auto parts. Get a new crush washer for the drain plug.
Servicing the transfer case and diffs aren't hard. Simply drain through the drain plug. Clean the plug and smear a little RTV silicone sealant on the threads and reinstall. Fill to the bottom edge of the fill hole. Do the same with the fill hole plug. Filling the transfer case and diffs can be make a lot easier by purchasing a fluid transfer pump.
You can change the coolant, to, if you wish. Make sure you first locate the air bleed screw at the top of the intake plenum as these engines do get air trapped inside of them and need to be purged. I also recommend getting a Lisle "spill-free" funnel, which makes this job a lot easier. The kit comes with a fitting that screws onto your radiator and the funnel fits into that. It's good for watching the air bubbles as they purge out. I would also refer back to the timing belt concern at this time; if you need to replace the timing belt, that would be the best time to replace the coolant as it has to be drained out, anyway.
If your vibration is only when 4WD is engaged, it would be a good idea to check the front driveshaft U-joints. Play in the joints can be easily checked by grabbing the shaft near the joints and moving them up and down and side to side. If there is play, you should be able to see it. If the joint bearings are rusted and binding, you may have to actually remove the shaft and work the joints back and forth by hand to check for any resistance in movement. Always mark the driveshaft alignment with the mounting flanges of the transfer case and differential pinion with paint or something appropriate prior to removal so you can bolt it up to the exact location.
There are a number of places known for oil leaks on VG engines. Burning oil smell can just be the result of spilled oil from the oil filter during an oil change. The filter is mounted right above the starter and a good amount of oil spills out during filter replacement. The oil sender is also in the same location, FYI, and it's not uncommon for them to leak. When servicing the oil filter, I got into the habit off placing rags below the filter prior to removal to catch the oil and keep as much as I could off of the vehicle.
The rear crank seal and the real oil pan lip seal are often sources of oil leaks. Evidence of this will be oil dripping from the bottom, front of the trans bellhousing.
Valve cover leakscan occur. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will help, but, if they don't, removal of the valve covers and replacement of the gaskets will be required. The left cover is obviously more difficult than the right bacause of the intake plenum sitting over it.
Front crank and/or cam seals can leak oil...especially the right bank cam seal. Usually when this leaks, you can see the oil if you look in the area just to the left of the timing cover (when standing in front of the engine). A leaking front crank seal will have oil dripping from the bottom of the lower timing belt cover. In order to replace these seals, you would have to remove the timing belt and cam/crank sprockets. BTW, that brings up another point: when was the last time the timing belt was replaced? It's a 60000 mile belt on your engine and the engine is interferance type, meaning it can bend valves if it breaks. So, if you don't know when it's been replaced, I would recommend replacing it ASAP. It's also recommend that you replace the front engine seals, tensioner pulley, water pump, thermostat and drive belts at the same time. Use quality parts!
Don't forget the transmission can leak, as well! Front and rear seals or the trans cooler hoses at the radiator can all leak. It's hard to comment on how your vehicle is shifting without being able to drive it myself. Under hard accelleration, they do hang a little bit before they shift. If you service the fluid, your best bet is to use one of the following: genuine Nissan Type "D" ATF, Valvoline Maxlife ATF or Castrol Multi-import ATF (unless you want to invest the big $$ for Amsoil or Redline synthetic). Avoid using "regular" ATF labeled Dexron III/Mercon as they have a thicker viscosity than the originally installed Dexron/Dexron II ATF and can lead to sticking in the valve body. I've been using Valvoline Maxlife on a number of applications and it's good stuff and about $18/gallon jug at Advance Auto parts. Get a new crush washer for the drain plug.
Servicing the transfer case and diffs aren't hard. Simply drain through the drain plug. Clean the plug and smear a little RTV silicone sealant on the threads and reinstall. Fill to the bottom edge of the fill hole. Do the same with the fill hole plug. Filling the transfer case and diffs can be make a lot easier by purchasing a fluid transfer pump.
You can change the coolant, to, if you wish. Make sure you first locate the air bleed screw at the top of the intake plenum as these engines do get air trapped inside of them and need to be purged. I also recommend getting a Lisle "spill-free" funnel, which makes this job a lot easier. The kit comes with a fitting that screws onto your radiator and the funnel fits into that. It's good for watching the air bubbles as they purge out. I would also refer back to the timing belt concern at this time; if you need to replace the timing belt, that would be the best time to replace the coolant as it has to be drained out, anyway.
Thanks for the great info! I'm getting started tomorrow, but today I think I may have found the source of the leak, look like there's a lot of oil built up around the valve cover gasket, so I tightend up the screws, some were a bit loose, but nothing crazy, then i cleaned the oil around it to moniter if the leak continues. Does it look like that might be the case?
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