1998 SE for $3800? What should I look for when buying?
Moderator: volvite
1998 SE for $3800? What should I look for when buying?
Thanks for helping me out! I found a 1998 SE with 101,200 miles and a one owner for $3800. It is at a reputable dealership in WI. Wisconsin laws state that all recommended maintence must be performed and all mechanical issues must be fixed before being put on the lot for sale. It still has a lot of power and 4wd works. It is a manual transmission and the clutch is still working well. So, what else should I be looking for or be concerned about? I checked under the hood and below the the engine and there are no stains from leaking fluid. No rust, but a little peeled paint on hood. This seems too good to be true. Thoughts? Concerns? I plan on purchasing Monday AM so any advice would be appreciated.
Check for rust at the bottom of the strut towers; there is currently a Nissan recall for this. Timing belt is due every 105,000 miles or 6-years, so you'll want to find out when it was done. Common problems were worn rear suspension link bushings, which will cause the vehicle to wander back and forth at highways speeds. Leaking front struts, bad airbag control units causing the airbag light to flash, leaking rear main crank seals and rusted/leaking exhaust were some of the common problems.
Well, not really. The suspension link bushings were still a concern, as well as the strut towers. The VQ35DE was a timing chain engine, so there's no concern regarding timing belt replacement. They also didn't have the problems of leaking rear main seals...at least, not as much as the 3.3L. There were some oil cooler gasket leaks, but that's an easy and cheap fix. There were some that had the screws in the power valve fall out due to lack of threadlock compound, which ended up inside the combustion chambers. The 3.5L has had some ignition coil failures, O2 sensor failures, inefficient catalytic converters causing P0420/P0430 trouble codes and some have had issues with burning oil due to stuck oil control rings. On the plus side, the 3.5L does have another 70 horsepower, which make a huge difference in performance.
I appreciate the reply again. I see you have an 06. I assume you bypassed the transmission/radiator problem? I was considering an 07 and an 05 until I was made aware of this problem. Is this mixing of radiator fluid with transmission a gradual occurance or a one time event that then kills your transmission? I would reconsider if I knew the answer to that question. I would have no problem doing the bypass or adding a second radiator for maintaining the transmission fluid temps. I've read a few articles on how to do it and would feel it is within my mechanical capabilities.
As a current owner spending someone else's money would you go '98 for $3800, '01 for $4500 or 07 for $13k knowing the issues with the transmission. All 3 have about 100k miles.
As a current owner spending someone else's money would you go '98 for $3800, '01 for $4500 or 07 for $13k knowing the issues with the transmission. All 3 have about 100k miles.
I can't really say which is the best deal without seeing any of the vehicles for myself. I do prefer the R51 over the R50, but each has its good and bad points. As far as the contamination issue, there's a seal in the integral radiator trans cooler that fails. There's a YouTube vid by a shop that removed the cooler from the lower tank, placed it in a tank of water and applied air under pressure to show the leak. Seems Calsonic had a bad run during the mid-2000's as they also have problems with the lower tanks cracking and leaking on the Titans. The bypass is one way to address the issue. My choice was to install an aftermarket radiator I got from Parts Express on Ebay for $92, free shipping and lifetime warranty. Last I checked they were going for around $74. Yeah, it was a made in China unit, but the quality appears to be good and the fit was perfect. Only difference I noticed was that the petcock was a different thread pitch than the original, but it came with one so it's not an issue (just something to remember if it ever needs to be replaced). I got all new foam seals from Nissan.
My biggest issue with the R50 is the handling. Even with a good set of rear suspension links, IMO, the R51's seem much more secure and better riding. I also like the fact that the R51's have a full frame under the body, not a unibody, although the unibody design is very good on the R50 and is used by other manufacturers in their SUV's. The VG33E R50 is definitely a different driving experience than the VQ35DE sister. The former gives adequate power where the later gives more than enough. I like the body styling of the later better, but there's something to be said for the good ol' reliability and simplicity of the VG33E engine. If you replace the timing belt on them, the only thing that every seems to go bad on them (engine-wise) is the distributor, rear main seal and rear oil pan seal.
My biggest issue with the R50 is the handling. Even with a good set of rear suspension links, IMO, the R51's seem much more secure and better riding. I also like the fact that the R51's have a full frame under the body, not a unibody, although the unibody design is very good on the R50 and is used by other manufacturers in their SUV's. The VG33E R50 is definitely a different driving experience than the VQ35DE sister. The former gives adequate power where the later gives more than enough. I like the body styling of the later better, but there's something to be said for the good ol' reliability and simplicity of the VG33E engine. If you replace the timing belt on them, the only thing that every seems to go bad on them (engine-wise) is the distributor, rear main seal and rear oil pan seal.
Wow, you are a wealth of information. Have you owned these other Nissan's or worked on them?
So If I look at the R51 (07 most likely) by checking to see if the transmission fluid is clean and if it is assume there has not been a compromise in the radiator yet? Then if purchasing, either do the bypass or pick up a different radiator per your suggestion and throw it in before I go anywhere else.
I'd prefer a newer vehicle and it has the 3rd row which is a huge plus because I have 3 kids.
Thanks again for all the advise. I owe you one.
Matt
So If I look at the R51 (07 most likely) by checking to see if the transmission fluid is clean and if it is assume there has not been a compromise in the radiator yet? Then if purchasing, either do the bypass or pick up a different radiator per your suggestion and throw it in before I go anywhere else.
I'd prefer a newer vehicle and it has the 3rd row which is a huge plus because I have 3 kids.
Thanks again for all the advise. I owe you one.
Matt
I'm a former Nissan Master Tech and have owned several Nissans, including my current 2006 Pathfinder LE. That said, if you can afford it, I would go for at least a 2008 model, if not later. The 2008-2010 models still have the radiator cooler issues, but not nearly as common as the 05-07 models. The 05-07's also seem to have a lot more problems other than the radiator when compared to 08-and-later models. Physically, they are pretty much the same for the nose, which was extended forward 3" in 2008 to help accommodate the 5.6L V8 made available that year. Also, the "Pathfinder" sticker was removed from the roofrack, but that can be added on if you prefer. My close friend's 08 also averages 1-2 MPG better than my 06, for whatever reason, even when I drive it. Also, if you wish to install an aftermarket audio system, avoid the Bose equipped models.
I'll throw another one at you. 04 Pathfinder LE Premium - does it have the same issues as the 01?
Of all of the PFs you've owned what was your favorite?
As a person who is not a mechanic, what are some key things to look over when checking out on these Nissans? I understand basic mechanic jargon, but not having worked on many cars I don't know a lot of details. I have done a lot of work on Ford Rangers because I've owned a few, but it's always been a case of getting out the Chiltons and walk through the process step by step- learning as I go. I always start the car cold, always check the fluid levels, get underneath the engine compartment and check for stains and obviously drive it and check all electronics are working. Any secret tricks though?
Unfortunately any 08s are just too expensive at this point. Thanks again for all your help. You've opened my eyes to the 07 and made me feel a little more comfortable going that route.
Of all of the PFs you've owned what was your favorite?
As a person who is not a mechanic, what are some key things to look over when checking out on these Nissans? I understand basic mechanic jargon, but not having worked on many cars I don't know a lot of details. I have done a lot of work on Ford Rangers because I've owned a few, but it's always been a case of getting out the Chiltons and walk through the process step by step- learning as I go. I always start the car cold, always check the fluid levels, get underneath the engine compartment and check for stains and obviously drive it and check all electronics are working. Any secret tricks though?
Unfortunately any 08s are just too expensive at this point. Thanks again for all your help. You've opened my eyes to the 07 and made me feel a little more comfortable going that route.
There isn't much difference between the 01 and 04 models. As far as what to look for, I believe I answered that in my first post. Favorite Pathfinder would probably be the 2-door WD21 Pathfinder SE's in the late 80's. The problem with them is that it's hard to find one in clean condition these days; most have a ton of miles or have been used and abused...or both! Many also have rust issues, especially in the frame. I like the R51, but to be honest, it wasn't my plan to own one. When it came time to buy my next vehicle, I was actually looking for a 2002-2004 Xterra. I went to a dealership to look at one and it had been sold. The salesman brought around an 06 Pathfinder LE that had just been traded-in with 84000 miles and even though it hadn't been prepped and detailed yet, the interior was almost spotless. The Carfax also looked pretty good and they got it down to the price I was willing to pay for it. I'm happy with it, although I do find myself looking at smaller SUV's with better gas mileage every now and then. If you're not an experienced mechanic, I would recommend you have a shop of your choosing look over any vehicle that you are seriously considering buying.
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