Moderator: volvite
OK, Thanks, I have tried feeling all around in that location, but have had no success. I am going to borrow a mirror to see if that will help me locate it. I am either reaching form the top, or laying on the ground, I do not have access to a hoist.smj999smj wrote:It's not in the easiest place to get to and even tougher if you don't have a vehicle hoist so you can get to it from underneath. It's located at the top of the transmission bellhousing, a few inches left of center. It has a metal heat shield over it and is held in with a single, 10mm head bolt. With the vehicle on a hoist, I would stand under the vehicle and squeeze by arm past the front driveshaft and reach up to the sensor. It's a real pain!
Image link:
http://s3.amazonaws.com/2cp-images/ques ... /large.gif
Thanks, I have not had time yet to get to this, am planning on this being my Saturday project, again, I will let you know how it goes, Thanks to all for the help.moymurfs wrote:If your arms and hands are of normal man size I doubt VERY seriously you will be able to manipulate it. It's still a b!*$# after dropping the transmission cross member and removing the drive shaft so you can tilt the engine and tranny to gain another inch or so of clearance. Also, the plug is a snap lock that pretty much requires you to bend the heat shield out of the way to even get your fingertips on. An articulated, ratcheting 10mm wrench is your best bet. When that doesn't, work a large flat blade screwdriver to pry the connector's plastic flanged bayonet works pretty well. This gives you more slack to be able to release the clip.
Well, I have still had no luck trying to locate the crank sensor. I have used an inspection mirror, and have looked everyplace I can think of. I see no 10 MM bolt head, no wire going to the sensor, no cover plate, I am very frustrated. I took some pictures, but have been unable to attach them to this post. I was hoping some one could look at the actual picture and tell me if they could see it, or where it would be in reference to the pictures. I have a couple of questions. I am not sure it is the crank sensor that is causing mu problem. I am just going off of what I have read on the internet as I have been searching. If it is the crank sensor, would there be a code that would tell me that is what the problem is?montana wrote:Thanks, I have not had time yet to get to this, am planning on this being my Saturday project, again, I will let you know how it goes, Thanks to all for the help.moymurfs wrote:If your arms and hands are of normal man size I doubt VERY seriously you will be able to manipulate it. It's still a b!*$# after dropping the transmission cross member and removing the drive shaft so you can tilt the engine and tranny to gain another inch or so of clearance. Also, the plug is a snap lock that pretty much requires you to bend the heat shield out of the way to even get your fingertips on. An articulated, ratcheting 10mm wrench is your best bet. When that doesn't, work a large flat blade screwdriver to pry the connector's plastic flanged bayonet works pretty well. This gives you more slack to be able to release the clip.
I have not tried to pull any codes, I have not found any one with a code reader that is close enough to where I live that I can take it too. I am still searching. I pulled the distributor, and mechanically, I can not see any issues. It turns freely, no binding or catching. I know that does not tell all, but a close inspection of the distributor looks good. I will look extra close at the 11:30 position on the bell housing, thanks.moymurfs wrote:http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/3m7gs- ... using.html
It's at the 11;30 0'CLOCK position on the bell housing.
Hope that helps but I would try to pull some codes off of it to help narrow your search for the what might be a different issue.
Have you been able to pull any codes?
The distributors are notorious for crapping out. Just a rotor or cap doesn't cut it. I had one where the bearing was finally disintegrating and caused innards to sink...thus the flimsy disc on the cam position sensor was getting out of whack and causing havoc.
You can check codes without a code reader, if you want:montana wrote:I have not tried to pull any codes, I have not found any one with a code reader that is close enough to where I live that I can take it too. I am still searching. I pulled the distributor, and mechanically, I can not see any issues. It turns freely, no binding or catching. I know that does not tell all, but a close inspection of the distributor looks good. I will look extra close at the 11:30 position on the bell housing, thanks.moymurfs wrote:http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/3m7gs- ... using.html
It's at the 11;30 0'CLOCK position on the bell housing.
Hope that helps but I would try to pull some codes off of it to help narrow your search for the what might be a different issue.
Have you been able to pull any codes?
The distributors are notorious for crapping out. Just a rotor or cap doesn't cut it. I had one where the bearing was finally disintegrating and caused innards to sink...thus the flimsy disc on the cam position sensor was getting out of whack and causing havoc.
smj999smj wrote:You can check codes without a code reader, if you want:montana wrote:I have not tried to pull any codes, I have not found any one with a code reader that is close enough to where I live that I can take it too. I am still searching. I pulled the distributor, and mechanically, I can not see any issues. It turns freely, no binding or catching. I know that does not tell all, but a close inspection of the distributor looks good. I will look extra close at the 11:30 position on the bell housing, thanks.moymurfs wrote:http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/3m7gs- ... using.html
It's at the 11;30 0'CLOCK position on the bell housing.
Hope that helps but I would try to pull some codes off of it to help narrow your search for the what might be a different issue.
Have you been able to pull any codes?
The distributors are notorious for crapping out. Just a rotor or cap doesn't cut it. I had one where the bearing was finally disintegrating and caused innards to sink...thus the flimsy disc on the cam position sensor was getting out of whack and causing havoc.
Where is the ECU located, and once you count the number of flashes, where is the information that indicates the problem.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/