Front Wheel Hub replacement

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ryanh2012
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Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2012 5:23 pm
Location: IL

Front Wheel Hub replacement

Postby ryanh2012 » Wed Sep 26, 2012 5:31 pm

Hi, I'm new to this forum but was hoping someone could answer a few questions I have about my sisters 2001 pathy 4wd. She experiences a vibration at around 40 mph but once she gets past it the vibration goes away. The mechanic told her she needs a new hub.

The question I have is how much should this cost or if I ordered the parts how hard would it be to replace myself? I am currently studying automotive technology at SIU Carbondale so I have access to plenty of tools and am pretty good at this type of work just not very experienced. Any help is appreciated.


IanH
Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2012 8:01 pm
Location: Richardson, TX

Postby IanH » Fri Oct 05, 2012 4:10 pm

I would/ did put the hub last on my list. how did they determine it needed replacement?
did they do a run-out measurement or is this one of those we replace this and it didn't work, so we will replace this next !!!!

So the Hub is easy to replace except the drive-shaft bearing is in the hub, so you need a new one if the part doesn't come with it, 2 seals, tool to un-lock and torque the bearings, and re-lock.
and maybe two new bearings, they are tapered roller bearing, so chances are they are still ok. inspect and check for smoothness.

But getting back to what the problem might be ... in order of time and cost and probability IMHO....
rotate another wheel and tire to this position first.
Then check wheel bearings for adjustment/ slop. tighten if lose.
get tires balanced and checked for run out or hop. please go to a shop that knows what they are doing for this.
check drive shaft for looseness in hub and slop in u joints.
finally i would add check hub for run-out and replace if bad.

Maybe this mechanic, cough cough, doesn't know the wheel bearing are adjustable !!!

hybridmomentspass
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2012 9:45 am

Postby hybridmomentspass » Fri Dec 14, 2012 10:04 am

IanH wrote:I would/ did put the hub last on my list. how did they determine it needed replacement?
did they do a run-out measurement or is this one of those we replace this and it didn't work, so we will replace this next !!!!

So the Hub is easy to replace except the drive-shaft bearing is in the hub, so you need a new one if the part doesn't come with it, 2 seals, tool to un-lock and torque the bearings, and re-lock.
and maybe two new bearings, they are tapered roller bearing, so chances are they are still ok. inspect and check for smoothness.

But getting back to what the problem might be ... in order of time and cost and probability IMHO....
rotate another wheel and tire to this position first.
Then check wheel bearings for adjustment/ slop. tighten if lose.
get tires balanced and checked for run out or hop. please go to a shop that knows what they are doing for this.
check drive shaft for looseness in hub and slop in u joints.
finally i would add check hub for run-out and replace if bad.

Maybe this mechanic, cough cough, doesn't know the wheel bearing are adjustable !!!
I want to ask you about this post and my current issues

so I get a vibration/racket in my front end from 40-50mph. Before and after its nice and smooth
I thought it might be a wheel out of balance, so I had it checked, they added some weights (sears) and also said that the alignment was off.
Today I got an alignment done and the mechanic said that the bearings are what are causing my issues.
He said that they could tighten them and hopefully it'd cure it, but likely it wouldnt and that I'd need new bearings.
They want 500 for the job, which I cant afford or justify.

But Im reading your reply and youer talking about replacing the HUB, that I dont know about.

my truck is 4 wheel drive
I need to get a generic part number for bearings so I can go to my local hardware shop (kind that does bearings and such) and pick up the pieces.

and while Ive changed bearings on things before, ive not done it on this truck - instructions?

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disallow
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Winnipeg, Canada

Postby disallow » Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:28 pm

I would check your driveshaft u-joints first.

A defective hub would probably make noise all the time, not a vibration.

But your description of the problem definitely points to a u-joint on either your rear propeller shaft, or the front (if so equipped).

hybridmomentspass
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2012 9:45 am

Postby hybridmomentspass » Sat Dec 15, 2012 7:24 am

disallow wrote:I would check your driveshaft u-joints first.

A defective hub would probably make noise all the time, not a vibration.

But your description of the problem definitely points to a u-joint on either your rear propeller shaft, or the front (if so equipped).
well its definately the front
how do I check the U joints....and sorry for asking...but what am I checking?
This is my first 4x4 and never done driveline stuff before, dont know what Ujoints look like etc

how hard to replace them?
how much are new U joints etc etcetc

borninabarn
Posts: 83
Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:49 am
Location: IOWA

Postby borninabarn » Sat Dec 15, 2012 8:02 pm

Go to you tube and look up some 4wd hub replacements and that will give you an idea of what it is and how its done.

IanH
Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2012 8:01 pm
Location: Richardson, TX

Postby IanH » Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:05 am

Download the factory service manual (FSM)

The bearings on the pathy are double tapered roller bearings and in general are very robust and not prone to failure unless
1) you get water in them and don't service after
2) hit something really hard to cause impact damage ( on an Audi I brought the former owner friend said the wheel was destroyed)
3)or spalling due to lack of grease.

These are not the sealed cartridge type used on FWD and vehicles like my RWD IS300

So if the bearings are loose dismantle, clean, re-grease and adjust them per FSM.

borninabarn
Posts: 83
Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:49 am
Location: IOWA

Postby borninabarn » Sun Dec 16, 2012 10:17 pm

If that even is the problem? Wouldnt hurt checking them out.

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linewar
Posts: 13
Joined: Thu Oct 25, 2012 7:18 am
Location: Southeast Texas

Postby linewar » Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:15 am

If you end up replacing the hubs - and I'm not saying you need to, I have no diagnosis to offer - you may wanna go this route and replace them with lockable hubs. Will save you on fuel mileage when you free-wheel the fronts. Saves on driveline wear and tear, too.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/ ... -pictures/

I priced the hubs, they're about $300 for the pair on Amazon or Summit.

IanH
Posts: 79
Joined: Mon Aug 20, 2012 8:01 pm
Location: Richardson, TX

Postby IanH » Thu Dec 20, 2012 6:51 pm

The hub the OP says needs replacing in the first post is the main hub that contains the bearings, not the locking hub.

To check the main hub, normally a run-out gauge is used and the run out checked against the Spec.

To bend the hub normally takes so much damage the wheels and or the suspension are damaged.


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