Pulling engine + tranny
Moderator: volvite
Originally, that nut wasn't so hard to remove when the R50's were first introduced. However, they started having problems with the exhaust manifolds cracking and Nissan redesigned the right side exhaust manifold and heat shield. The updated manifold made it real tough to get to that one nut, which needs to be removed from under the vehicle. For most of the removal and installation, I used a stubby 14MM combination wrench. That was in 96 & 97 and ratcheting box wrenches weren't as common as they are today, so there is likely an easier option. I have a stubby 14MM flex head, ratcheting combination wrench that would probably be good for that job.
9 total.
1 of those attaches to the gusset by the starter.
If you haven't already, click on the Service Manual sticky.
Go to Automatic Transmission, go down to Removal, go to page 275, keep the bolts organized since the bolts vary in lengths. Oh, now is the time to get the torque converter bolts (4). Rotate the crank to get them in the position you need.
For the upper tran/eng bolts... loosen the two motor mount nuts. Run them up but not off (this will give the motor more "tilt" room when you drop the tranny/cross member. To get to the upper nuts you are going to need a loooong extension ( think I had about 3feet of 1/2" extension pieces snapped together), a flex attachment on the socket. I was able to able to get to 3 of the 4 from 1 side. I found it easier to completely remove the tranny crossmember altogether and rest the tranny on a floor jack. This lets you get in on the sides easier.
1 of those attaches to the gusset by the starter.
If you haven't already, click on the Service Manual sticky.
Go to Automatic Transmission, go down to Removal, go to page 275, keep the bolts organized since the bolts vary in lengths. Oh, now is the time to get the torque converter bolts (4). Rotate the crank to get them in the position you need.
For the upper tran/eng bolts... loosen the two motor mount nuts. Run them up but not off (this will give the motor more "tilt" room when you drop the tranny/cross member. To get to the upper nuts you are going to need a loooong extension ( think I had about 3feet of 1/2" extension pieces snapped together), a flex attachment on the socket. I was able to able to get to 3 of the 4 from 1 side. I found it easier to completely remove the tranny crossmember altogether and rest the tranny on a floor jack. This lets you get in on the sides easier.
I found a writeup for a 95 pathfinder on how to remove to torque converter bolts.
-To remove the torque converter bolts, you have to remove the starter & the mounting plate under it. Then there is a metal lower cover that is between the engine and the trans that also has to be removed. Trying to remember exactly, it's been a while. There are 4 14 mm bolts going forward into the trans securing the plate that have to be removed, but you have to loosen the bracket on the drivers side, it on the other end of the bracket that have the 14 mm bolts on, you just need to loosen them. Once you have the plate out, you can see the bolts clearly through the starter area.-
Would that be the same for the 98?
-To remove the torque converter bolts, you have to remove the starter & the mounting plate under it. Then there is a metal lower cover that is between the engine and the trans that also has to be removed. Trying to remember exactly, it's been a while. There are 4 14 mm bolts going forward into the trans securing the plate that have to be removed, but you have to loosen the bracket on the drivers side, it on the other end of the bracket that have the 14 mm bolts on, you just need to loosen them. Once you have the plate out, you can see the bolts clearly through the starter area.-
Would that be the same for the 98?
I did manage to get out 3 of the 9 bolts including the grommet bolt. It looks to me like i pretty much have to remove dust shield anyways because it's attached to the engine but i do have to get to the tc bolts anyways.
I'm gonna pick up an extra 10" and a 6" extension on top of what i already have. One thing i did notice when looking up at a bolt on the drivers side is what seems like some sort of piece of plating going over the one bolt (and blocking it) and i have no idea what it's for or what it attaches to. Maybe you guys could help me?
I'm gonna pick up an extra 10" and a 6" extension on top of what i already have. One thing i did notice when looking up at a bolt on the drivers side is what seems like some sort of piece of plating going over the one bolt (and blocking it) and i have no idea what it's for or what it attaches to. Maybe you guys could help me?
moymurfs wrote:9 total.
1 of those attaches to the gusset by the starter.
If you haven't already, click on the Service Manual sticky.
Go to Automatic Transmission, go down to Removal, go to page 275, keep the bolts organized since the bolts vary in lengths. Oh, now is the time to get the torque converter bolts (4). Rotate the crank to get them in the position you need.
For the upper tran/eng bolts... loosen the two motor mount nuts. Run them up but not off (this will give the motor more "tilt" room when you drop the tranny/cross member. To get to the upper nuts you are going to need a loooong extension ( think I had about 3feet of 1/2" extension pieces snapped together), a flex attachment on the socket. I was able to able to get to 3 of the 4 from 1 side. I found it easier to completely remove the tranny crossmember altogether and rest the tranny on a floor jack. This lets you get in on the sides easier.
One thing i did notice when looking up at a bolt on the drivers side is what seems like some sort of piece of plating going over the one bolt (and blocking it) and i have no idea what it's for or what it attaches to. Maybe you guys could help me?
That is the bracket that the flywheel sensor plug is attached to. You can easily push it upward to reveal the bolt head without screwing up the plug.
That is the bracket that the flywheel sensor plug is attached to. You can easily push it upward to reveal the bolt head without screwing up the plug.
My swap was a 98 motor into a 97 body. When it was all done the only thing difference was that the 97 had an air intake sensor plugged into the lower front of the air box. The 98 did not.. Everything else fit & snapped together perfectly (when you get to that point it makes you fee like you are actually accomplishing something )the_path wrote:Also.
Does anyone know if there are any differences in the vg33e's in the Pathfinders trough out the years like harness connections, sensors, and whatnot? I am looking at an engine out of a 97 with low mileage and of mine is a 98.
Oh, maybe before completely dropping the motor on the mounts you may want to connect the oil pressure switch wire...it was tricky to get on from below due to the limited room.Well that's good to hear. One less worry...
I did get every bolt, nut, sensor, hose, except there is that sensor on the top of the transmission that is smack up against the engine beside the passenger side upper most engine/tranny bolt. My only roadblock. I haven't attempted it yet...
I did get every bolt, nut, sensor, hose, except there is that sensor on the top of the transmission that is smack up against the engine beside the passenger side upper most engine/tranny bolt. My only roadblock. I haven't attempted it yet...
moymurfs wrote:My swap was a 98 motor into a 97 body. When it was all done the only thing difference was that the 97 had an air intake sensor plugged into the lower front of the air box. The 98 did not.. Everything else fit & snapped together perfectly (when you get to that point it makes you fee like you are actually accomplishing something )the_path wrote:Also.
Does anyone know if there are any differences in the vg33e's in the Pathfinders trough out the years like harness connections, sensors, and whatnot? I am looking at an engine out of a 97 with low mileage and of mine is a 98.
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