Wasn't sure where to post this

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FLpathFinder
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Wasn't sure where to post this

Postby FLpathFinder » Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:58 am

Ok guys, here's a head scratcher (maybe not).

When I first went to purchase my 2010 pathfinder, the AC wasn't blowing cold so before I purchased I had the dealership address the issue and they seemed to fix it. Actually the coldest AC I've ever had. Recently, my AC has been going from ice cold, to just blowing air. I've also noticed, that when this has occurred, my temp gauge on the gauge cluster rises to then hot line. Then returns to normal as I start driving and the air starts blowing cold. It's a pretty drastic jump, happens withing seconds.

Does anyone have an idea? I'm going to take it to an AC specialist this weekend, unless there is some fix you guys recommend.

Thanks in advance.


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doctahjones
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Postby doctahjones » Wed Jun 12, 2013 9:44 am

not basing this on any kind of actual experience or what not....

but i would check your engine cooling system - fans (both clutched and electric) and coolant.

i imagine that with todays ecu's, it would cut the ac compressor out if your engine was running hot. kind of like how if you go wide open throttle (wot) while the ac is on, the ecu will cut the compressor.

so, check to make sure you have plenty of coolant, and check to make sure your clutched/big/main fan seems to blow harder (can always tell by reving slightly and you'll sound like a mack truck), and check that the electric fan in front of the radiator is also kicking on.


but that's just my theory, or the hurricane did it :)

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deermjd
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Postby deermjd » Wed Jun 12, 2013 10:44 am

For whatever reason your engine coolant system is overheating and it appears the ECU is trying to correct the problem by shutting off the AC compressor or using the heater core as a radiator to cool the engine. Of course this is purely my speculation.

So this problem only happens at idle?

FLpathFinder
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Postby FLpathFinder » Wed Jun 12, 2013 10:53 am

No it happens at all times, appears my coolant tank is in fact empty. Grrr

FLpathFinder
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Postby FLpathFinder » Wed Jun 12, 2013 11:27 am

Sure enough, you guys were correct! Thanks for the help. After checking the radiator cap, I discovered this:

Image

Sure enough the rubber seal was warn, causing a leak. 5 minutes back to normal. Appreciate the help!

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doctahjones
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Postby doctahjones » Wed Jun 12, 2013 12:27 pm

It was your execellant detailed description that help diagnose :)

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Oly 22
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Postby Oly 22 » Wed Jun 12, 2013 6:33 pm

My service manual says to replace the radiator cap every 48000 kms or 30000 miles. Blew past this some time ago and never thought twice about replacing the radiator cap. Guess I will now, now that I have read this.

Thanks.

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mar1
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Postby mar1 » Mon Jun 17, 2013 1:15 pm

make sure you burp it! not extremely important, but better..

FLpathFinder
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Postby FLpathFinder » Tue Jun 18, 2013 6:34 am

Ok guys, apparently that didn't fix it, now what to do?

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:48 am

Is your fan clutch working properly?

FLpathFinder
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Postby FLpathFinder » Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:27 am

The man fan is running, the actually housing of the fan looks beat up though. When I get home from work I will try to get under there and take some pictures.

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:30 am

You could check to make sure the fan is not damaged.

Also, you could check to see if you rad and condensor cores are plugged with dirt.

t

FLpathFinder
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Postby FLpathFinder » Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:46 am

I almost feel there is a leak somewhere, because it seems the coolant levels are low for just filling it last week. I just don't see any abnormal fluid on the ground when parked.

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:57 am

You could do a pressure test... and a visual inspection of your rear heater lines.

FLpathFinder
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Postby FLpathFinder » Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:45 am

I wish I knew what that meant lol, I'm not the handiest when it comes to cars. But the fan is spinning, just popped the hood and checked.

I guess I will take it to nissan :/


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