Instrument cluster mph to kph

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freerider
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Instrument cluster mph to kph

Postby freerider » Sat Jan 05, 2019 12:48 pm

Hi guys I got my 2010 Paty today .Im new here can you help me with couple questions.

1.My instrument cluster is in miles (originaly us car) .Is it possible just change instrument cluster from Canadian pathfinder ? will this work ? or I also need change ecu ?

2.regards trasmission strawberry milkshake ,how is it with this issue for 2010 did they fixed this problem in factory or still needs to be fixed (bypass or new radiator)

Thank you for any advise .


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underworld1001
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Postby underworld1001 » Sun Jan 06, 2019 9:59 pm

Most US cars tend to have the KM listed as well next to the MPH numbers, just in smaller numbers. If you switch to KM, you may also have to switch the ECU, but that's just a guess.

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palmerwmd
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Postby palmerwmd » Mon Jan 07, 2019 11:53 am

Welcome to the Path and congrats!! :D

Please post up some pics!!!

We often get the SMOD question especially about the transition model year of 2010... here is the skinny:

http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=17198

freerider
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Postby freerider » Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:36 pm

palmerwmd wrote:Welcome to the Path and congrats!! :D

Please post up some pics!!!

We often get the SMOD question especially about the transition model year of 2010... here is the skinny:

http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=17198
Thank you very useful .I was ready do SMOD this weekend .So now I can go chcek my radiator number THX very useful .I finaly solved problem with my instrument cluster and bought obd HUD display
Last edited by freerider on Sun Jan 13, 2019 10:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

freerider
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Postby freerider » Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:55 pm

So my radiator is 21460 ZL11A not sure if Im ok but it looks good as I see in your list .One more question when I cheked dipstick and my Trans oil is clear or slightly yellow .And my coolant is green . Is this ok this is first time when I saw yellow trans oil .

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palmerwmd
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Postby palmerwmd » Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:40 am

freerider wrote:So my radiator is 21460 ZL11A not sure if Im ok but it looks good as I see in your list .One more question when I checked dipstick and my Trans oil is clear or slightly yellow .And my coolant is green . Is this ok this is first time when I saw yellow trans oil .
The ZL11A rarely fails.. but it has done before its just rare.
I would consider a radiator replacement just in case. (keep reading in that thread).. but its not this huge urgency as if it was one of the early radiators.

You transoil should NOT be clear.
Get new ATF in there ASAP.
Healthy transmission fluid is red.

Coolant can be green... In 2010 the coolant switched to "Nissan Blue". But yours might be an early 2010... Whats the date on your doorjamb?

Either way put either new "Nissan Green" Or "Nissan Blue" (better) in there.
Here is a thread on this subject:
http://www.thenissanpath.com/viewtopic.php?t=16926

:D

freerider
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Postby freerider » Thu Jan 10, 2019 9:33 pm

Door jamb say's 05/10 .

When I googled "clear transmission fluid" I found this frontier forum looks like I'm not only one with clear TF (exactly same colour like is on pictures in this topic).Like I said it was first time when I saw different colour than red .Car shifting very good up and down pretty smooth.

https://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/ ... uid-78549/

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palmerwmd
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Postby palmerwmd » Sun Jan 13, 2019 8:52 am

freerider wrote:Door jamb say's 05/10 .

When I googled "clear transmission fluid" I found this frontier forum looks like I'm not only one with clear TF (exactly same colour like is on pictures in this topic).Like I said it was first time when I saw different colour than red .Car shifting very good up and down pretty smooth.

https://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/ ... uid-78549/
A 5/10 production date is actually a pretty late 10 model almost an 11.
Possibly previous owner changed the coolant once with aftermarket green.
But likely not the real good "Green" Nissan uses.
Not urgent but consider replacing.

Both Nissan Matic J and Nissan Matic S are red fluids.
So is Valvoline MaxLife ATF And Castrol synthetic Import both popular aftermarket ATFs for our vehicles.

The red dye has approximately the same heat resistance as some key additives in your ATF that it needs to work properly.

I've been taught that when the red dye in the ATF is destroyed it may mean key additives in your ATF are too.

As a minimum I would do a drain and refill.
The temptation to do a dealer flush is great.. but if the fluid is too dirty and the dealer flush machine presses that dirt into the valvebody it can make the valvebody have issues.

I always thought that was an urban legend but just about 18 months ago I had a dealer flush done in an Xterra (same transmission as us) and within 100-200 miles I had big slippage and needed a new valvebody (which I stupidly had done at the dealer at cha-ching $2300 and that was with a discount)

So long story short.. do a drain and refill.

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Postby freerider » Sun Jan 13, 2019 10:46 am

Thx for reply .New oil is home so next thing is drain and refill ATF, than radiator with coolant.

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Thu Jan 17, 2019 4:43 pm

NissanMatic Types "J" and "S" ATF can be deceiving. It is a dark red when you see it come out of the bottle. When draining it into a container, it actually looks burnt as it seems to be a brownish-red color. However, on the dipstick, it is a very clear color and not the red color one would expect to find when checking ATF. I could see where it might be perceived as a "yellow-ish" color by some people. The factory fill is a synthetic trans oil and lasts a long time under normal driving conditions; as long as one doesn't see white streaks in it, debris particles or strawberry custard on the dipstick, it is probably fine. If you switch to one of the compatible, aftermarket ATF's, like Valvoline Maxlife Full-synthetic ATF, one will notice the fluid does show up as a cherry red color on the dipstick and when serviced, usually after the second or third service or after a flush.

One misconception about transmission flush machines: they do not force trans fluid into the transmission at higher pressures than what the transmission itself does. They are not designed like that...at least none of the ones I ever used. A better term for them would be "fluid exchanger." The machine has two hoses; one connects to the outlet side, trans cooler fitting on the radiator (usually the left side on Nissans) and the other hose connects to the trans cooler hose that would connect to that fitting, essentially "T-ing" into the cooler line. The machine has a pressure gauge and a switch to bypass the internal bladder tank or to send the old fluid to the bladder tank inside the machine. There may also be a "spinning wheel" gauge to show that the fluid is moving and allows one to see the color of fluid passing through the machine. Once hooked up to the machine, it is filled with new transmission fluid the equivalent of the transmission's capacity spec (usually 12-13 quarts) which goes to one side of the bladder inside of the storage tank. Sometimes a pre-conditioner is poured into the vehicle and run at idle for 10-15 minutes before the flush, but is not necessarily needed and the same goes for a small bottle of conditioner that is added after the flush on some trans 'flushes." With the transmission fluid at normal operating temperature, the selector is turned to flush mode and the old fluid being pushed out by the transmission enters the storage tank on the other side of the internal bladder. As it pushes against the bladder, it causes fluid on the other side to get pushed into the return line back to the transmission and into the trans pan. This is why the pressure back to the trans is equal to the amount of pressure of the fluid being pushed out by the transmission, itself. The machine has no "pump" in it. Typical pressure usually runs anywhere from 6-13 PSI on most vehicles, so it is not a high-pressure system. When the fluid exchange is complete and the bladder is full, the "spinning wheel" gauge will slow down...or the machine will notify you in some other way, depending on manufacturer, and it can be switched to bypass mode and turned off. The hoses are removed, the trans cooler hooked back up to the fitting on the radiator, conditioner is added into the dipstick tube if being used. The vehicle is started and run for a couple of minutes and the transmission fluid level is checked and topped off, if needed. So, really the only thing that can go wrong is if the incorrect ATF is used on a particular vehicle. One can do the same thing at home by installing a trans funnel into the dipstick, disconnecting and plugging off the return cooler hose and install a 5/16" drain hose onto the radiator cooler fitting and draining it into a bucket or three, one-gallon jugs. If you get Valvoline Maxlife in the one-gallon jugs, it makes it easier. You start the vehicle and as the old fluid fills the drain bucket or jug, you add a similar amount back into the trans funnel using new fluid. If you have a helper, it makes it a lot easier. The result is the same.

freerider
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Postby freerider » Thu Jan 24, 2019 1:10 pm

Thx for reply .I have Valvoline Maxlife I wan't do TF change when I'm back from holiday .So one last question is regards transmission filter .When I checked kit's with pan seal on rockauto there is different type of filter for 4wd (filter looks plastic and is smaller) .Is this correct for my paty as I have 4wd ?? Or should I just do drain and refill and forget about filter ? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 53&jsn=398

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:57 am

Just do a drain and fill. Jatco transmissions don't really have a filter, just a screen. If the screen gets restricted or clogged, then that indicates a more serious problem than a trans service will fix. The drain plug gasket on the trans pan is the same as on the engine oil pan: Nissan # 11026-01M02. Torque spec is 25 lb/ft.

freerider
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Postby freerider » Sun Jan 27, 2019 3:25 pm

ATF fluid changed old one was almost black/red (for some reason it wasn't visible on dip stick/white towel).Next is CSF radiator with coolant flush.

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Mon Jan 28, 2019 11:48 am

freerider wrote:ATF fluid changed old one was almost black/red (for some reason it wasn't visible on dip stick/white towel).Next is CSF radiator with coolant flush.
The first time I changed the ATF in my 2008, I drained it into a washer fluid jug and it was brown. I really thought I had a transmission on the way out. However, that was at 60,000 miles and now it has 235,000 miles on it and it still shifts like new. I used the Maxlife and did drain and fills at 90K. and about every 50,000 miles after that. After the second drain and fill, the fluid was what you would expect to see: cherry red transmission fluid on the dipstick and when drained. So don't panic...that's just the way NissanMatic J and S ATF look.

As far as the CSF, when you get it, you will probably have a vented-type radiator cap on it. The R51 uses a vented cap on the reservoir, but not on the radiator. You have two options: (1) slightly bend the original Nissan cap to fit the CSF radiator or (2) cut the spring off of the CSF radiator cap.

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Re: Instrument cluster mph to kph

Postby paradigm » Tue Feb 19, 2019 10:58 am

freerider wrote:Hi guys I got my 2010 Paty today .Im new here can you help me with couple questions.

1.My instrument cluster is in miles (originaly us car) .Is it possible just change instrument cluster from Canadian pathfinder ? will this work ? or I also need change ecu ?


Thank you for any advise .
I believe you can swap the instrument cluster to a Canadian KPH unit. However the mileage which it displays will be from the vehicle it was previously installed in unless re-programmed.


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