2010 Pathfinder P0940 Code Cam Position Sensor ?

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TheGrayt1
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2010 Pathfinder P0940 Code Cam Position Sensor ?

Postby TheGrayt1 » Sun Feb 10, 2019 7:51 am

Hey guys, have a nice 2010 Pathfinder with 112k on the clock. My wife was driving yesterday when it was cold and rainy and when she went to start the truck it started slow and the service engine soon light came on. Took it to Autozone and it is throwing a P0940 code for the camshaft position sensor. How bad is this to replace by myself? They wanted $73 fpr the sensor but I see them on ebay for way less. Are these okay?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Camshaft-Posit ... 1438.l2649

They told me also I could remove the original and maybe clean it to make it work. Is that true? Lastly, I washed the engine bay with degreaser and light hose pressure about 2 weeks ago with no issues, but did that cause this problem?

Thanks in adavance


twinblown
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Postby twinblown » Sun Feb 10, 2019 9:29 am

It is not very hard, all you need is a 10mm wrench. You will need to work from the top of the engine and kind of lay on it while feeling by hand. The plug removal is a little tricky, search youtube for some good videos. The driver side is easier than passenger side, replace both and go with oem ones .if I remember correctly I paid about 120 for both.

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Sun Feb 10, 2019 2:28 pm

The code should be P0340, which is the bank #1 cam position sensor and is on the right side of the vehicle. The right bank is a bit of a pain because the intake plenum is a bit in the way. Having small hands is a big plus! Remove the 10MM bolt and pull the sensor out of the back of the head, leaving it attached to the harness so it doesn't fall. Pull the sensor up using the harness and R&R the sensor. Use the harness to help lower the sensor behind the head. Install the sensor into the head and install the bolt. I usually use a fine tooth, 1/4" drive ratched with a 10MM, six-point socket.

The right bank is the cam sensor with the straight connector and the left bank has the angled sensor. I do not recommend getting bargain-basement parts when it comes to ignition systems. Genuine Nissan is a good option, but a bit pricey. Rockauto.com offers both Hitachi and NTK brand cam sensors, which I wouldn't hesitate in using. Both NTK and Hitachi are OE part suppliers to Nissan.

TheGrayt1
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Postby TheGrayt1 » Sun Feb 10, 2019 7:24 pm

Me washing the engine off 2 weeks ago did not cause this? Also is it okay to drive a round for a few days throwing this code before I can get the parts in? I do not want to damage the engine.

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palmerwmd
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Postby palmerwmd » Mon Feb 11, 2019 10:54 am

TheGrayt1 wrote:Me washing the engine off 2 weeks ago did not cause this? Also is it okay to drive a round for a few days throwing this code before I can get the parts in? I do not want to damage the engine.
Probably not the same thing.. But I once had issues after a wash lots of lights lit up.. limp mode.. turned out it was the MAF (dealer kept misdiagnosing to the tune of $1000 of work done and issue not fixed).
Thing is a wash of engine is risky business with all those electrics..
I hand wipe now instead of water hose.

TheGrayt1
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Postby TheGrayt1 » Mon Feb 11, 2019 1:50 pm

Thanks I highly doubt washing my engine did it but wanted to check. Also can someone please advise if it is alright to drive the truck with this faulty sensor currently? Do not want to damage anything?

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Mon Feb 11, 2019 7:38 pm

TheGrayt1 wrote:Thanks I highly doubt washing my engine did it but wanted to check. Also can someone please advise if it is alright to drive the truck with this faulty sensor currently? Do not want to damage anything?
If the sensor is malfunctioning, it could damage the catalytic converter buy causing unburned fuel to be sent through the exhaust.

TheGrayt1
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Postby TheGrayt1 » Thu Feb 14, 2019 1:09 pm

UPDATE! So I got my part in from eBay and installed it last night no problem. I disconnected the battery and let it sit overnight to clear the code. Reconnected it and fired it up and it cranked very slowly! and now there are several lights on the dash like VDC off, supplement alairbag warning warning light, and after I drove it around for a bit the check engine light came back on. Does this have anything to do with me resetting the codes by disconnecting the battery? Or did I get a bad sensor?

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Thu Feb 14, 2019 3:59 pm

I would check the battery cable connections, first, and make sure they are tight. Sometimes it's hard to get those 2007 and later battery cable ends to tighten down enough. Check the charging system voltage and make sure that's in spec. There is a chance it could be the Ebay sensor. If it causes a engine performance issue, the ECM can disable the traction control system by default, causing the ABS/VDC/SLIP lights to illuminate. Another thing to keep in mind, sometimes when you disconnect the battery, it erases the steering position sensor learned setting, which will cause the same traction control warning lights to illuminate. Sometimes driving in a straight line will get the lights off, but it is possible that the position sensor will have to be re-learned using a capable scan tool. Without knowing the codes that are stored, it's difficult to say much more than that.

TheGrayt1
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Postby TheGrayt1 » Thu Feb 14, 2019 7:17 pm

I did put battery terminal protector back on the cables for the battery as a precaution. Could that have done anything? Would loose battery cables cause all this? It is cranking slow as well which leads me to think it is the sensor but have no clue why all the other lights are on. I am so mad at myself for disconnecting the battery. I thought it would clear the codes.

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:00 pm

TheGrayt1 wrote:I did put battery terminal protector back on the cables for the battery as a precaution. Could that have done anything? Would loose battery cables cause all this? It is cranking slow as well which leads me to think it is the sensor but have no clue why all the other lights are on. I am so mad at myself for disconnecting the battery. I thought it would clear the codes.
The battery terminal protector is fine. Just get a rag (to keep from getting that stuff all over your hand) and make sure you can turn the cable end on the battery post. It could very well be the $9 Ebay cam sensor...remember, if the price is too good to be true, it probably is...but, I'm just saying there are other possibilities that can cause this problem. Might be worth making a couple of basic checks before spending money on another sensor and going through the hassle of replacing it. If it is the sensor, again, I would advise going with either a Hitachi or NTK sensor (from Rockauto) or a genuine Nissan part (CourtesyParts.com and NissanPartsDeal.com are good sources for Nissan parts).

TheGrayt1
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Postby TheGrayt1 » Fri Feb 15, 2019 7:39 am

Is there any chance that the computer lost its memory and will have the relearn all settings by driving like 100 miles? Someone told me that bc I disconnected the battery overnight. What baffles me though is why the VDC, airbag, and slip lights are in in conjunction with the SES light. Makes me think it is computer related.

TheGrayt1
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Postby TheGrayt1 » Fri Feb 15, 2019 8:22 am

I just called the Nissan dealership and they said because I disconnected the power source during all this it caused all the other lights to come on. They said the dealer is the only place to reflash the computer. Is this true? They also said the reason for the long crank time is bc it is not a Nissan part. Will driving 100 miles allow the computer to relearn settings?

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Fri Feb 15, 2019 8:58 am

Again, without knowing what codes are stored in the various control units, everything is speculation. Disconnecting the battery for an extended period does not require the ECM to be re-flashed. Flashing or re-flashing an ECM is to install or update the software. Disconnecting the battery does not erase the software. What disconnecting the battery can do is erase settings learned to various control modules, such as the idle air volume memory in the ECM or the steering wheel position memory used by the traction control system. So, the ABS/VDC/SLIP lights can be "on" because of one, two or both reasons: (1) the steering wheel position memory was lost and/or (2) the cam sensor is faulty and the ECM disabled, by default, the traction control system, which is does when it detects an engine control malfunction and causes the ABS/VDC/SLIP lights to illuminate. This, of course, all assumes that there isn't a charging system issue and also that a new problem with the ABS system didn't just crop up coincidentally (which is where knowing what the trouble codes are triggered helps).
My advise would be to get an inexpensive OBD II code reader, which can be found for around $25-35. This type of code reader won't help with B-codes and C-codes, but it will, at least, allow you to read engine management and some transmission codes and erase them. Next, get rid of that EBAY cam sensor and replace it with a genuine Nissan part, or an NTK or Hitachi sensor. Make sure your cable connections are tight if you haven't already. Erase the codes with your code reader. Start and drive the vehicle and see what happens. If you notice a higher than normal idle and the SES or CEL light comes on, than you will likely need to do an idle air volume relearn. If the ABS/VDC/SLIP lights come back on, you will need to get the codes read with a capable scan tool to find out what they are, and/or relearn the steering wheel position (and possible even the deceleration and YAW sensors, as required). If the idle is okay but the SES (or CEL) light comes back on, re-check the ECM for stored codes using your code reader and let us know what you got.

TheGrayt1
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Postby TheGrayt1 » Fri Feb 15, 2019 9:51 am

Took it to a shop and the only code is P0340 and nothing else. All the other lights are still on so I am assuming the truck just needs to be driven 100 miles for those to go off?

Also I just ordered the Hitachi CPS0008 sensor from Rockauto for $40 and will replace the ebay one.

EDIT! I took the ebay sensor out and put the faulty factory oen back in. No delayed fire up and the VDC and slip light went off after I took it around the block. The airbag and SES light are still on but the airbag light I am sure will go off after 100 miles or so. This seems to me that it points to a cheap crappy sensor. I ordered my Hitachi one and will throw it in ASAP.


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