Postby smj999smj » Mon Feb 24, 2020 1:26 am
Sometimes this can be caused by a failing crank position sensor or cam position sensor. It'll fail when it gets hot but start working when it cools down. It also doesn't always trigger a diagnostic code. The misfire caused by said part could also trigger the catalyst code you have. There are component tests in the factory service manual for these sensors, basically checking the resistance with a ohmmeter...however, sometimes the sensor will pass the test if it is in the cold state. Still, may be worth a try compared to just replacing sensors one at a time (or all three at a time) in the hope that it'll repair the problem. NICO Club has FSM's at their site for free use. If you purchase one or more new sensors, stick with Nissan, Hitachi, NTK or Denso brands as some aftermarket brands tend to have quality issues. The crank position sensor is accessible through the passenger side wheel well; you'll have to remove the wheel and bend back, or remove, the plastic wheel well liner. The cam sensors are at the back of the cylinder heads and a little awkward to remove, especially the one on the passenger side. All of the sensors are held in with a single, 10MM head bolt.